Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) has a clear mission: to establish the city as a global fashion hub. Organisers believe internationality is one of the event’s key strengths, setting it apart from other fashion weeks — and this was evident at its fifth edition, which wrapped on 6 February.
For Autumn/Winter 2025, the line-up featured 35 designers, including homegrown talents such as Michael Cinco, Dima Ayad and Lama Jouni. However, the scope was truly international, with 17 countries represented. Australian designer Paolo Sebastian made his regional runway debut, while India’s Manish Malhotra closed out the week. Parisian label Weinsanto, a DFW regular, also showcased its latest collection.
Attending the event were buyers from New York, Milan and Mumbai, with Italian luxury retailer Luisaviaroma hosting a mid-week dinner. This approach is proving to be a gateway for international brands, retailers and designers to engage with the platform in myriad ways.
“While nurturing our incredible homegrown talent remains at the heart of what we do, we also recognise the immense value that international designers bring to the conversation. By welcoming global voices, we create a platform that not only celebrates creativity but also promotes collaboration and cultural exchange,” says Mohammed Aqra, chief strategy officer of the Arab Fashion Council, which partners with Dubai Design District (D3) to organise DFW.
The week also reflected the cosmopolitan nature of Dubai. Khadija Al Bastaki, SVP of D3, adds: “Dubai is proudly a multicultural, global city with a population comprising local Emiratis alongside expatriates from across the Arab world, South Asia, wider Asia, Europe and the US.”
Still, DFW’s ambition to become the dominant player in the Middle East — a region that has several other events, including Riyadh Fashion Week and Red Sea Fashion Week — is bold. To truly stand out, consistency and continuous elevation of programming will be essential.
A catwalk that welcomes all cultures
Previous editions of DFW have seen participation from the likes of Carolina Herrera and Roberto Cavalli. This year, India’s Manish Malhotra took the spotlight as the closing designer, with Brazilian supermodel Adriana Lima walking the runway.
Al Bastaki believes that the inclusion of global designers strengthens Dubai’s unique position as a luxury capital and a platform for emerging trends. Homegrown designers welcome this move, as Dubai-based Dima Ayad explains: “I think that when global brands show in Dubai, the world watches. It can elevate regional designers’ positionings when global players debut collections here that haven’t been seen elsewhere. The messaging feels like it puts Dubai on the map more than the fashion week itself.”
Malhotra, one of India’s most celebrated designers known for his bridal couture and close ties to Bollywood, opened a flagship store in Dubai Mall last year. His connection with the region spans years, from holding shows to local retailers and pop-ups. He chose DFW to celebrate the store’s one-year anniversary. “Back when I started showing in Dubai, platforms like DFW weren’t around. I was doing my own smaller shows, really connecting with the city on a more personal level,” he says. “But now, look at DFW! It’s this incredible stage, a global spotlight. It’s about more than just showcasing clothes; it’s about conversations, about sharing ideas with the world.”
Off-the-runway activations
Beyond the runway, the week was filled with exclusive dinners and events, with Instagram holding the opening party. “We’ve curated a series of events as well as high-profile industry dinners, presentations, activations and panel discussions led by thought leaders and industry experts,” says Aqra. “These initiatives allow us to engage with the fashion community on a deeper level.”
Italian label Marina Rinaldi hosted a dinner to announce its collaboration with Arab designer Georges Chakra on an AW25 capsule collection. “Officially partnering with Dubai Fashion Week was the most effective way to show our commitment to this region and to launch a project that we hope will resonate with local consumers,” says Marina Rinaldi CEO Sheila De Pietri. “It is an effective tool to connect with a new audience but also to draw inspiration and learn more about the expectations and interests of consumers in the region. While the runway remains a core part of our programming, we recognise that fashion today is not just about what is shown on the catwalk — it’s about building connections, expanding creative dialogues and offering opportunities across platforms.”
Buyers with a global view
One of DFW’s primary objectives is to attract buyers from across the world. This was a key reason to position Dubai at the start of the global fashion calendar, just before New York and shortly after Copenhagen (DFW began on 1 February).
“Our strategic decision to kick off [early on] the global fashion week calendar reflects that agility, enabling our designers and buyers to engage earlier in the fiscal year and set the tone for the international fashion schedule,” says Al Bastaki.
A core pillar of DFW is its Global Buyers Programme, which scouts and invites international retailers with a global perspective. Among first-time attendees was renowned New York concept store The Webster. “At The Webster, we always try to think through a global lens,” says Astrid Boutrot, The Webster’s buying and fashion director. “Most of the brands I have discovered [this season] have a substantial following and business in the UAE and Europe. However, only a few have a retail presence in the US, while they have a dynamic direct-to-consumer business. I would love to accompany some of them in their North American expansion and consider adding them to The Webster’s curation.”
Also attending for the first time was Miami-based fashion commentator Hanan Besovic, known for his Instagram account @IDeserveCouture. He admits: “I’ll be honest, until the Arab Fashion Council reached out, I didn’t have DFW on my radar. But having attended, I can see its potential.”
As a young fashion week, Dubai Fashion Week is making the right moves. While it may not yet have the same global recognition as the established fashion capitals, its strategic positioning and growing international presence make it a fashion week the world should be watching.
Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
