Since its inaugural edition in 2023, Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) has been clear about its mission: to establish the city as a global fashion hub. And while attention is firmly on Paris and Milan this fashion month — as we gear up for several major debuts — DFW quietly continues to build its identity.
Co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3) and the Arab Fashion Council (AFC), DFW is crystallising around three main pillars: global positioning, international collaboration and regional talent development. Some 40 designers participated in the Spring/Summer 2026 edition on 1 to 6 September, up from 35 last season (and 68 per cent of whom were from outside the United Arab Emirates).
Previous editions have welcomed international names including Carolina Herrera, Roberto Cavalli and India’s Manish Malhotra as opening or closing designer. This year, Istanbul-based streetwear brand Les Benjamins, which has three stores in Dubai, closed the week with a show on 6 September.
“Dubai Fashion Week gives us a chance to represent where we come from and share our perspective with a wider audience,” says Les Benjamins co-founder and head of womenswear Lamia Alotaishan Aydin. “It feels like a meaningful space for connecting with people both locally and internationally.”
Here are our key takeaways from the week.
Dubai as a discovery platform
Designers from India, Malaysia and Italy have become regulars on the DFW calendar, underscoring its global approach. Last year, the Italian Trade Agency (ITA) brought a showcase of 25 Italian brands spanning apparel, footwear, leather goods and eyewear, highlighting the craftsmanship and innovation behind ‘Made in Italy’. This season, the event deepened its partnership with the ITA by marking day three ‘The Italian Day in Dubai’, which featured brands including VP by Valentina Poltronieri, Le Twins, Cose di Maglia, Gil Santucci, Avant Toi and Be Nina.
While these are yet to be the household names traditionally associated with Italian fashion, Lorenzo Fanara, Italian Ambassador to the UAE, believes DFW has positioned itself as a discovery platform. “From our past experience, we know that buyers who come here are curious and open to discovering new talents,” he says. Fanara affirms the importance of the UAE as a market for international fashion. “Buyers here are curious and open to discovering new talents. That’s why we’re confident these brands will not only find their space, but also help diversify the fashion landscape in the UAE.”
“DFW leverages Dubai’s unique position as a cosmopolitan city, a cultural crossroads and a growing centre for commerce and creativity,” says AFC CEO Jacob Abrian. “Our focus has been on creating a platform that not only showcases regional talent, but also attracts international designers. In essence, we’re not just participating in the regional conversation; we’re shaping it and connecting the Middle East to the global fashion calendar.”
First-mover advantage
Last September, DFW shifted its dates to become one of the first fashion weeks in September, alongside Tokyo Fashion Week (which also took place from 1 to 6 September). “When we made the bold decision to start our season ahead of the traditional fashion week calendar, it was very intentional,” says Abrian. “It gave us a first-mover advantage — the ability to capture global attention before the rest of the circuit even began. This strategy has evolved into one of our greatest strengths, positioning Dubai Fashion Week as the opening note of the international fashion conversation.”
Abrian believes this has encouraged new entrants to the platform, including Chic Holland (Netherlands), Maison Novague (Germany) and XD Xenia Design (Croatia), all of whom joined DFW for the first time this season.
Growing homegrown talent
Spotlighting regional talent, especially Dubai-based designers, remains central to DFW’s identity. Dubai’s Dima Ayad, Michael Cinco and Lama Jouni — all regulars of the week — presented collections this season, while Emirati label Hebajasmi made its debut. Beirut’s Emergency Room also returned.
“[DFW’s] blend of Emirati and Arab heritage with global influences, alongside exclusive collections not seen elsewhere, has made it a distinctive platform,” says Khadija Al Bastaki, SVP of d3.
Dubai label Mrs Keepa, known for its cult following in the Gulf region, made its runway debut (it has previously held presentations during the event). Founder and creative director Mariam Yehia says: “Dubai Fashion Week has been a game changer — it gave us Dubai designers an ecosystem and platform. Before, we were just working individually; and now, we have a place to share notes and feel like an industry. It also made buyers in the region look at us more seriously.” Known for its street-infused occasionwear, power shoulders and draping, Mrs Keepa expanded into menswear this season. The brand is stocked at regional department stores such as Bloomingdale’s. “And you will see us in international stores soon,” Yehia says.
Collaborations are shaping the future
Abrian underlines that nurturing cross-industry collaborations are a cornerstone of DFW’s strategy. During the week, DFW regular Cinco announced a collaboration with Chinese car manufacturer Soueast (one of DFW’s sponsors) for an “art car” with interiors and exteriors designed by the Dubai-based couturier. The car will be formally revealed next year.
Emergency Room, the Lebanese label known for its signature sustainable lens and focus on upcycling, collaborated with Timberland on its runway presentation, which reimagined some of the brand’s iconic styles — most notably, the Original Yellow Boot.
“One of my top highlights this season was seeing how collaborations are shaping the future of fashion in the city,” says Abrian.
Enriching the experience
Off-runway programming included industry dinners: multi-brand boutique Etoile La Boutique hosted a party to launch its new logo, while UK-based non-profit The Outsiders Perspective, founded by Jamie Gill to increase representation of people of colour in global fashion and luxury, co-hosted a sit-down dinner with d3’s Al Bastaki and AFC’s Abrian for senior Dubai-based executives.
For the first time, offsite fashion shows were held beyond d3, with networking dinners and afterparties taking place at key city hotspots, including the Waldorf Astoria in the financial district, Jumeirah’s Four Seasons, and the Skooni Arts Foundation and Residence.
“What excites me most is that the momentum isn’t just on the runway — it’s also in the city-wide activations that extend the experience beyond a traditional fashion week format,” says Abrian. “I’d like to see us scale the cultural and city-wide activations even further.”
While DFW continues to position itself as more than just another stop on the fashion circuit, aiming to be a space where East meets West, the absence of a major international brand this season was noticeable. But consistency is important for a young fashion week, and this edition of DFW added to its foundations as a regional hotspot. Looking ahead, stronger collaborations with key fashion bodies and the inclusion of big names from each corner of the world could elevate the platform further and ensure greater global impact.
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Correction: This article was updated to clarify the Arab Fashion Council s position as co-founder. (10/9/2025)
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