Get Cozy! A Survey of Patchwork and Quilt-Inspired Looks on the Runway

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Romance Was Born, resort 2021

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One way to react to dropping temperatures is to snuggle under a cozy quilt—another is to wear one. Many designers, including Jean Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons, and the anonymous team behind the Japanese label Khoki, have taken inspiration from all-American patchwork coverlets with intricate, kaleidoscopic patterns that can be “crazy” or follow more orderly templates. Yves Saint Laurent was early on the trend; his quilt-like couture dresses for fall 1969 made hippies haute. Alternatively, patchwork details can evoke a more homespun aesthetic, which might be particularly apt as cupping season approaches.

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Khoki, fall 2024 menswear

Courtesy of Khoki
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Khoki, fall 2024 menswear

Courtesy of Khoki
Khoki spring 2024 menswear

Khoki, spring 2024 menswear

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Khoki spring 2024 menswear

Khoki, spring 2024 menswear

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Thom Browne fall 2022 readytowear

Thom Browne, fall 2022 ready-to-wear

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Libertine, fall 2021 ready-to-wear

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Collina Strada, spring 2021 ready-to-wear

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Dolce Gabbana, spring 2021 ready-to-wear

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Dolce Gabbana, spring 2021 ready-to-wear

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Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2020 couture

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Bode, fall 2020 menswear

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Missoni, fall 2020 ready-to-wear

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Koché, fall 2020 ready-to-wear

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Koché, fall 2020 ready-to-wear

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Viktor Rolf, spring 2020 couture

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Viktor Rolf, spring 2020 couture

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CalvinKlein205W39NYC, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

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CalvinKlein205W39NYC, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

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Jonathan Cohen, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

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Koché, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

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Etro, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

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Loewe, fall 2019 menswear

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Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2019 couture

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Christian Dior, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

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Christian Dior, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

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Rosetty Getty, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

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Mimi Prober, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

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Mimi Prober, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

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Loewe, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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Loewe, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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Bode, spring 2018 menswear

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Sonia Rykiel, fall 2017 ready-to-wear

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Dolce Gabbana, fall 2017 ready-to-wear

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Viktor Rolf, fall 2017 couture

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Viktor Rolf, fall 2017 couture

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Loewe, spring 2017 ready-to-wear

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TommyNow, spring 2017 ready-to-wear

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TommyNow, spring 2017 ready-to-wear

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Junya Watanabe, spring 2016 menswear

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Chanel, resort 2016

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Valentino, fall 2015 ready-to-wear

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Chloé, fall 2015 ready-to-wear

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Chloé, fall 2015 ready-to-wear

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Maison Margiela, fall 2014 couture

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Maison Margiela, fall 2014 couture

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Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2013 ready-to-wear

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Jenny Postle, Central Saint Martins, fall 2011 ready-to-wear

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Jenny Postle, Central Saint Martins, fall 2011 ready-to-wear

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Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2003 couture

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Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2020 couture

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Oscar de la Renta, fall 2002 ready-to-wear

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Versace, fall 2002 couture

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Moschino, fall 1997 ready-to-wear

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Dolce Gabbana, spring 1993 ready-to-wear

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Dolce Gabbana, spring 1993 ready-to-wear

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John Galliano, spring 1991 ready-to-wear

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Pretty in patchwork: A 1969 design by Yves Saint Laurent.

Photographed by Bert Stern, Vogue, March 15, 1969
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Yves Saint Laurent, fall 1969 couture

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Patchwork with panache: A 1969 couture design by Yves Saint Laurent.

Photographed by Bert Stern, Vogue, March 15, 1969

This story has been edited and amended since it was originally published.