“About Time”—As Seen Through the Vogue Runway Archives 

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Viktor Rolf, spring 2020 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
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LX: Noir Kei Ninomiya, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Doing the research for this story felt a little bit like planning a debutante ball, as it collects the first runway exits of some of the looks in the just-opened, and must-see, “About Time” exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute. This year I’ve added a few references from the magazine as well.

Vogue is only 22 years younger than the Met, which is celebrating its sesquicentennial.

That’s 150 years to me and you. The time span provided curator Andrew Bolton with a framework for the show in which visitors do-si-do with pairs of garments from different eras that are deep in conversation with each other. The past seems very much present in so many ways today. One of the surface results of quarantine is the revival of old-fashioned pleasures, like drive-ins, board games, and puzzles. Much deeper shifts are happening as the Black Lives Matter movement pushes for America to confront its past so that the country can truly live up to the ideals of its Constitution. It’s quite prescient how this mirrors what is happening in culture and politics right now—although it’s a lot quieter at the Met!

Blocking visual “noise” is the pared-back palette: Everything in the show is in black and white. This draws attention to the sculptural forms and textures of the garments, highlighting both similarities and differences. “About Time” delivers an optimistic message, suggesting that it is possible to find common ground across cultures and eras.

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V: JW Anderson, fall 2020 ready-to-wear

Photo: Gorunway.com
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VI: Comme des Garçons, fall 2004 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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II: Alexander McQueen, fall 1995 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive
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IX: Junya Watanabe, fall 2004 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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X: Marc Jacobs, spring 2020 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
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VIII: Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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VIII: Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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XI: Rick Owens, fall 2007 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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XIII: Thom Browne, spring 2014 ready-to-wear

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XII: John Galliano for Maison Margiela, spring 2020 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
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XIV: Libertine, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

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XVI: Off-White, pre-fall 2018 ready-to-wear

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XVII: Jonathan Anderson for Loewe, spring 2020 ready-to-wear

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XXIV: Yohji Yamamoto, spring 2005 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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The Bar suit by Christian DiorPhotographed by Serge Balkin, Vogue, April 1, 1947
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XXV: Junya Watanabe, fall 2011 ready-to-wear

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XXVIII: Prada, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

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Evelyn Tripp in Norman NorellPhotographed by Erwin Blumenfeld, Vogue, March 15, 1952
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XXIX: Raf Simons for Christian Dior, fall 2013 ready-to-wear

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XXX: Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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Yves Saint Laurent for Christian DiorPhotographed by Irving Penn, Vogue, October 15, 1960
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XXXI: John Galliano for Maison Margiela, spring 2020 couture

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XXXVIII: Viktor Rolf, fall 2003 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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XXXII: Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, spring 1994 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive
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XXIII: Maison Martin Margiela, spring 2000 ready-to-wear

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XXXIII: Prada, fall 2011 ready-to-wear

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XXXVI: Tom Ford for Gucci, fall 1996 ready-to-wear

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XXXIV: Junya Watanabe, spring 2003 ready-to-wear

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XL: Marc Jacobs, spring 2008 ready-to-wear

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XXXIX: Vivienne Westwood, fall 1994 ready-to-wear

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LV: Prada, fall 2007 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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XLI: Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
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Laetitia Firmin-Didot in Chanel couture by Karl LagerfeldPhotographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, June 1983
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XLVII: Versace, spring 1994 ready-to-wear

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XLV: Olivier Rousteing for Balmain, fall 2012 ready-to-wear

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LI: John Galliano, fall 1994 ready-to-wear

Photo: Guy Marineau
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LII: Helmut Lang, spring 2003 ready-to-wear

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LII: Hood by Air, spring 2015 ready-to-wear

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LIII: Viktor Rolf, spring 2005 ready-to-wear

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LIV: Undercover, fall 2006 ready-to-wear

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Vionnet

Illustrated by Lee Creelman Erickson, Vogue, October 15, 1925
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LVI: Raf Simons for Jil Sander, spring 2009 ready-to-wear

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LVII: Iris van Herpen, fall 2012 couture

Photo: Michel Zoeter / Courtesy of Iris van Herpen
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LVIII: Thom Browne, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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LIX: Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com