Balletcore: A Look Back at How Designers Have Been Inspired by Dance

From left John Galliano spring 1996 Julie Kent on the set of Dancers Ming Ma spring 2023.nbsp
From left: John Galliano, spring 1996; Julie Kent on the set of Dancers, Ming Ma, spring 2023. Photos: Condé Nast, Arthur Elgort, Vogue, July 1987; Courtesy of Ming Ma

Most recently re-energized by Miu Miu, balletomania is back in fashion—only this time it’s called balletcore, and it’s not all about the tutu. All our barre workouts have accustomed practitioners to leotards and leg warmers. On and off the runways, the ODD (off-duty dancer) look is giving the MOD (model off duty) aesthetic a run for its money. It helps that viral dance crazes are rampant, and comfort (which often translates to active fashion hybrids) is at a premium.

“The influence of ballet on fashion—specifically practice clothing such as leotards and tights—dates back to the rise of balletomania during the 1930s and 1940s,” Patricia Mears, who curated “Ballerina: Fashion’s Modern Muse” at the Museum at FIT, told me. “It was strongly revived during the disco era of the 1970s, long before the term athleisure entered our vocabulary,” she continued. So, the recent re-emergence of ODD may indeed be connected to the current social media-driven dance craze. “The use of social media platforms by classical dance companies and their star dancers is helping make the art form more accessible.” The virtual output includes everything from costumes commissioned by leading designers to looks worn by ballerinas in their everyday lives.

Whatever you prefer to call the trend, this iteration of balletomania speaks more fully to a dancer’s all-round experience, from street to studio to stage. The results include a range of garments that speak not just to fashion fantasy, but also to quotidian needs, which is a move in the right direction. Here, a look back at fashion’s ongoing fascination with dance.

Off-Duty Dancer

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MM6 Maison Margiela, spring 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
MM6 Maison Margiela spring 2023 readytowear

MM6 Maison Margiela, spring 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
MM6 Maison Margiela spring 2023 readytowear

MM6 Maison Margiela, spring 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
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Sandy Liang, spring 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
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Sandy Liang, spring 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
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Miu Miu, fall 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
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Miu Miu, fall 2022 re ready-to-wear

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Miu Miu, fall 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
Image may contain Human Person Coco Rocha Clothing Apparel and Face
Photographed by Shahrokh Hatami, Vogue, February 1, 1964
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Max Mara, pre-fall 2019

Photo: Courtesy of Max Mara
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Max Mara, pre-fall 2019

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Max Mara, pre-fall 2019

Photo: Courtesy of Max Mara
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Co, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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Valentino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

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Michael Kors, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

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Michael Kors, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

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Michael Kors, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

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Christian Dior, spring 2019 ready-to-wear

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Moncler Gamme Rouge, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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Moncler Gamme Rouge, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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Moncler Gamme Rouge, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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Anne Valerie Hash, spring 2003 couture

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Anne Valerie Hash, spring 2003 couture

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Photographed by Duane Michals, Vogue, December 1972

Let’s Dance!

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Ming Ma, spring 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Ming Ma
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Ming Ma, spring 2023 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Ming Ma
Noir Kei Ninomiya spring 2022 readytowear

Noir Kei Ninomiya, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Noir Kei Ninomiya
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Molly Goodard, spring 2021 ready-to-wear

Photo: Ben Broomfield / Courtesy of Molly Goddard
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Junya Watanabe, fall 2020 ready-to-wear

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Jordan Dahlah, spring 2020 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Jordan Dalah
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Thom Browne, spring 2020 menswear

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Giambattista Valli, spring 2021 couture

Photo: Courtesy of Giambattista Valli
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Thom Browne, spring 2020 menswear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Rudolf Nureyev and Erik Bruhn at the Ballet Theatre School 1965.nbsp
Rudolf Nureyev and Erik Bruhn at the Ballet Theatre School, 1965. Photo: Jack Mitchell / Getty Images
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Moschino, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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Moschino, fall 2019 menswear

Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com
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Moschino, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

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Valentino, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

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Naeem Khan, spring 2020 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Irina Baranova.

Irina Baranova.

Photographed by Cecil Beaton, Vogue,  October 15, 1935
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Fausto Pugliesi, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Bibhu Mohapatra spring 2022 readytowear

Bibhu Mohapatra, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

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Miu Miu, spring 2016 ready-to-wear

Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigitalimages.com
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Undercover, spring 2015 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigitalimages.com
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Undercover, spring 2015 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigitalimages.com
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Iris van Herpen, spring 2016 couture

Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
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Olympia Le-Tan, fall 2015 ready-to-wear

Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com
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Olympia Le-Tan, fall 2015 ready-to-wear

Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com
Costumes by Salvador Dali for Bacchanale.
Costumes by Salvador Dali for Bacchanale.Photographed by Irving Penn, Vogue, October 15, 1939 
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Valentino, spring 2014 couture

Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
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Valentino, spring 2014 couture

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Halpern, spring 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Halpern
Charles Anastase spring 2009 readytowear

Charles Anastase, spring 2009 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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Photo: Marcio Madeira
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Givenchy, spring 2008 couture

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch
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Givenchy, spring 2008 couture

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch
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Givenchy, spring 2008 couture

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch
Rodarte fall 2008 readytowear

Rodarte, fall 2008 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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Rodarte, fall 2008 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
Alexander McQueen fall 2008 readytowear

Alexander McQueen, fall 2008 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
Alicia Markova.

Alicia Markova.

Photographed by Horst P. Horst, Vogue, October 15, 1941
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Comme des Garçons, spring 2005 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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Comme des Garçons, spring 2005 ready-to-wear

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Comme des Garçons, spring 2005 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
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Comme des Garçons, spring 2005 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcio Madeira
This image may contain Clothing Apparel Footwear Shoe Caroline Trentini Human Person Home Decor and Evening Dress

Anne Valerie Hash, fall 2004 couture

Photo: Marcio Madeira
The Dance Lesson c. 1879 by Edgar Degas.nbsp
The Dance Lesson, c. 1879, by Edgar Degas. Photo: Heritage Images via Getty Images
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Christian Dior, fall 2003 couture

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Gaultier Paris, spring 2003 couture

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Givenchy fall 1997 couture

Givenchy, fall 1997 couture

Photo Guy Marineau / Condé Nast Archive
Camp Notes on Fashion From the Runway to the Met

Marjan Pejoski, fall 2001 ready-to-wear

Photo: JB Villareal / Shoot Digital for Style.com
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John Galliano, fall 2000 ready-to-wear

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John Galliano, fall 2000 ready-to-wear

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John Galliano, spring 1996 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive
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John Galliano, spring 1996 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive
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John Galliano, spring 1996 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive
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John Galliano, spring 1996 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive