Welcome to Next in Beauty, a Vogue Business series highlighting category predictions, formula innovations and new product development for 2025 and beyond, in editorial partnership with global trends intelligence and consumer insights specialist Stylus.
Solar fragrances had their time in the sun this summer, as consumers sought out warm scents that evoke the feeling of basking in the sun. But are they a one-season wonder?
I test it out. On a grey, autumnal-feeling day in London, walking through drizzling rain to the office, I wear a spritz of Sol de Janiero’s Cheirosa 62 Perfume Mist; the next downcast day, it’s Fragrance Du Bois’s Solstis, then Aesop’s new scent Virēre and Creed’s Delphinus. In many ways, these fragrances feel better suited to colder, darker days, awakening uplifting memories of being relaxed by the beach. Solstis and Delphinus are warming and comforting on my skin, while Virēre is fresher and more energising. It taps into the trend towards using fragrances to manage your emotions.
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“Solar fragrances bring a sense of joy, warmth and nostalgia for summer but also have an incredible uplifting effect,” says Romy Kowalewski, founder of Spanish perfume brand 27 87.
The term ‘solar fragrance’ emerged during the pandemic, when people in colder climates were unable to travel abroad for their dose of summer sunshine. It has since been applied to a slew of products, though interpretations of what makes a scent ‘solar’ vary (for example, Creed amplifies a warm, amber note to represent the heat and radiance of the sun; others are more herbal). Bella Hadid’s Orebella, Marc-Antoine Barrois, Dedcool and Balmain Beauty all launched solar-based scents this year, joining existing offerings from the likes of Ellis Brooklyn, Phlur, Unifrom and 27 87.
Solar is not part of the traditional olfactory families — such as woody, floral, chypre and fresh — that define the $52.4 billion global fragrance market, per WGSN. It is a more abstract concept. “We have been tracking how consumers have gravitated towards solar or sunshine-inspired fragrances, particularly since the pandemic. This trend connects with macro-trends and concepts like ‘imagination travel’ and ‘pseudo-travel’, where fragrance and beauty brands have responded to consumers longing for escape,” says Olivia Houghton, lead beauty analyst at strategic foresight consultancy The Future Laboratory.
A summer fling?
Consumer interest has remained, even as travel restrictions have eased. As of mid-August, TikTok had produced over 900,000 posts related to “solar scents”. “Solar fragrances embody energy, warmth, sunshine and lightness. They bring feelings of joy, peace, security and comfort, which consumers are increasingly seeking in response to a somewhat uncertain world,” says Paula Floyd, CEO and founder of Headkount, a US-based retail growth agency that works with beauty companies including Glossier, Sephora and The Ordinary.
Kowalewski agrees: “Where the search for mental and physical wellness is more prominent than ever, solar scents have become a significant part of the fragrance landscape that isn’t just a fleeting trend, but a response to a deeper societal need for positivity and balance.”
The challenge for brands is how to tap into this trend in the winter months, when sun-drenched marketing campaigns and packaging could be jarring.
One way to do this is to use the blend of ingredients to position these scents as “versatile, year-round options”, says Floyd. Solar fragrances typically rely on sweet, floral and tropical notes such as mandarin or bergamot to convey a summer feeling, but this composition is flexible by nature.
“There are no rigid blend guidelines for solar fragrances because the category doesn’t adhere to fragrance family rules like a gourmand or floral — perfumers can play and experiment with their scent combinations. The blend of a solar fragrance is an emotional narrative and mood,” says Lisa Payne, head of beauty trends at Stylus. She predicts a move towards more warm and comforting ingredient facets such as tonka bean, cashmeran and amber, “to dial up the cosiness and comfort”, which could carry over well into the winter.
Fragrance Du Bois aims to be both. “The top notes focus on the warmth, brightness and energising connotation of summer using mandarin, bergamot and apple — whereas, once it dries down, it’s warm and comforting for the cold, winter days using sandalwood and vanilla,” says creative director Jonnie Swarbrick.
Brands could also lean into shifting seasons in different global markets. “There’s always summer somewhere in the world,” says Kowalewski. She says 27 87 has made sure its solar fragrance, Hamaca, is selectively distributed and marketed globally to match the seasons. Orebella, meanwhile, positions Blooming Fire as a fragrance that can be layered on top of other scents based on the wearer’s mood.
For brands looking ahead to Spring/Summer 2025 and introducing the next generation of solar scents, Houghton recommends doubling down on the feeling of escapism and travel as consumers increasingly tap into a new reality via sensory experiences. “Although the ability to travel has returned, new barriers — such as economic challenges, ethical concerns about climate change and a value shift — limit overseas vacations. Alongside this, the growing trend of romanticising everyday life and elevating routine activities likely plays a role,” she says.
Payne points out that notes reminiscent of water and the ocean “are also becoming more popular, adding to the beach experience”. Phlur’s 2023 Solar Power, for example, blends musk, driftwood and sea salt. US-based Ellis Brooklyn introduced Salt eau de parfum in 2020 and built on the solar aspects of the fragrance with vegan ambergris — known for its marine and salty aroma.
“Marine and sand accords capture a feeling that is both familiar and refreshing and stands out in the solar fragrance category,” says Kowalewski, “they are designed to transport the wearer to their personal sunlit escape.”
The concept of solar fragrances — or scents that evoke escapism and relaxation — isn’t just for summer, Headkount’s Floyd concludes. “The solar fragrance trend has created a new genre within the industry, providing more options for consumers who gravitate towards fragrances that are nostalgic and align with a more natural and sensual aesthetic.”
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