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“I wanted to transport people into a dark fantasy world,” designer Christian Siriano tells me minutes before his spring 2025 ready-to-wear show starts. “We’re talking about Grimm’s Fairy Tales—a fantasy place, but a bit of dark fantasy.” You heard it here first: We’re no longer going sweet for spring.
Naturally, makeup artist Vincent Oquendo (who used all Revlon products, including a glossy mauve lip color that will be available October 1) went dark and moody on the eyes. “Christian kept telling me all about this enchanted forest, and my mind went to fairies,” Oquendo says while smoking out show opener Jessica Stam’s eyes. “I wanted to create a look that was both beautiful but also a little dangerous and a little mischievous.” The black smoky eye was finished off by two different metallic shades—a coppery liner applied with a slanted shadow brush and a pop of silver in the corner—which play into the luster of the collection. “The fabrics have a lot of iridescence to them that the metallics in the makeup and hair complement nicely,” Siriano says.
When it came to designing the fairy-fantasy hair, Siriano tapped Lacy Redway (the two have worked together for many years, and the designer likens their relationship to siblings), requesting “glitter that would feel like dew drops on the hair.” Redway started by prepping hair with Tresemmé Heat Tamer Leave-In Spray, then blew it out to be super straight. Next, she sculpted pieces of the face-framing sections saturated in Tresemmé Mega Control Hair Gel into old-school waves (think Josephine Baker or a 1920s flapper) and started applying silver sparkles. “The makeup was bringing the darkness, so we decided to use the hair to balance it out with a little bit of light,” Redway says.
I chatted with longtime Siriano supporter Coco Rocha as she sat in Redway’s chair. “Models aren’t just here to show clothing, we are entertainers,” Rocha says. “And the ultimate goal is to inspire people to wear these things and do exciting things in them.”
Before Rocha (and Siriano, for a bow) take to the enchanted runway, I ask them both an important question to get them in the mood: If you were in a fairy tale, what creature would you be? For Rocha, who is fresh out of the Area show from earlier in the day and dressed in spots, the answer is easy—a villain. “I always loved the Disney villains, and this seems especially appropriate when I’m dressed like Cruella de Vil.” Siriano’s answer really made me giggle: “A Lord of the Rings elf.” As the elves say, Namárië.
