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Sometimes, being a beauty editor is a bit like being a doctor. Mention your job, and people start firing questions at you: Should they take collagen? Which collagen is best? And are the health benefits of collagen really as good as they sound? This is similar, I imagine, to how a doctor might find themselves being shown any number of lumps, bumps, and rashes while making polite small talk at a dinner party.
Occasionally, people ask other things… perhaps about red light masks, or retinol, but for the most part these days, the questions are all about collagen. And for good reason. Collagen can help with everything from improving skin firmness to strengthening weak nails and supporting good gut health. So, if you, too, and one of the people now wondering… well, should I be taking collagen? We let actual professions answer, below.
What is collagen?
“Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body,” Hannah Alderson, BANT-registered nutritionist, hormone specialist, and author of Everything I Know About Hormones: Six Steps to Optimal Health Happiness, says. “But it’s not a ‘complete’ protein.” This means it doesn’t contain all nine essential amino acids that constitute a protein cell. But still, it’s not without its benefits.
How collagen works
“Collagen acts like scaffolding—giving structure, strength, and elasticity to skin, bones, tendons, ligaments, and connective tissues,” Alderson continues. “Think of it as the glue that holds everything together, from your complexion to your joints.” Nerds will appreciate that the word collagen actually comes from the Greek word for glue, kólla.
Are there different types of collagen?
Yes, there are different types of collagen both in the body and in the collagen supplements we consume. In the body, over 28 types of collagen have been identified, though there are five that we tend to concentrate on. These types of collagen appear in skin, nails, hair, bones, muscles, joints, and organs.
Then, when it comes to collagen supplements, there are a few types of collagen, depending on whether you have dietary restrictions. Bovine collagen or marine collagen is widely considered the most effective form for us to consume, but there are plant-based sources as well.
“Bovine collagen is derived from cows and typically contains Type I and Type III collagen,” Alderson tells Vogue. “These types of collagen support skin, muscles, bones, and connective tissue.” Bovine collagen is found in a cow’s connective tissue, bones, and hide, and as with humans, it acts like a structure-supporting glue.
“Marine collagen, on the other hand, is sourced from fish and is primarily Type I, making it particularly effective for skin health,” Alderson explains. Marine collagen can tend to be more bioavailable, meaning it’s more straightforward for the body to absorb.
If you aren t consuming animal products (or perhaps, just not into the idea of animal-sourced collagen), there is a vegan substitute made of amino acids and vitamin C. Typically sourced from mushrooms or algae, there is no actual collagen in the supplement, but instead nutrients necessary to give the body as much help as possible to build collagen.
What are the benefits of collagen?
Whichever type you take, marine or bovine collagen, the list of benefits is long. One thing to note: You should always choose a hydrolyzed version of the supplement, which has been broken down into smaller pieces to increase absorption by the body. Studies show the impact of hydrolyzed collagen (vs. non-hydrolyzed) on skin, the improvement of skin wrinkles is dramatic.
“Collagen can help with skin hydration, elasticity, and the appearance of fine lines,” says Alderson. An important thing to note, though, is that collagen can only do so much to mitigate certain lifestyle factors. Things like how much alcohol you drink, whether you smoke, if you wear sun protection, and how hydrated you are can make a marked difference, too.
Bones with high density are more resilient to cracks, breakages, and fractures—all important things as you age. A 2018 study of post-menopausal women found that certain collagen peptides significantly increase bone mineral density. Other studies have shown that collagen can help increase bone density in people with diagnosed osteoporosis or osteopenia, both bone disorders caused by a loss of density.
If weak, flaking nails are one of your biggest pet peeves, collagen could help restore them to their former glory. “As the most abundant protein in the body, collagen is essentially the building block that keeps skin firm and elastic and supports healthy hair and nails,” says Vida Glow founder Anna Lahey.
“Collagen can help support the integrity of the gut lining, though more research [in this area] is needed,” says Alderson. The gut lining is a semipermeable layer that controls what passes through the gut and into the bloodstream.
For example, the nutrients from food, electrolytes, and water are things that should pass through the gut lining and into the bloodstream. Things like bacteria and toxins, though, absolutely should not. When the integrity of the gut lining is compromised, it can become lax and let these harmful substances into the bloodstream, triggering inflammation. Collagen can help this mucus layer work as it should.
Stiff, aching joints are something that collagen can help alleviate, says Alderson, particularly in “active or aging individuals.” However, as with all collagen benefits, the only way to truly reap them is through consistency.
Which supplements does collagen pair well with?
- Vitamin C, which is essential for collagen synthesis
- Hyaluronic acid, which supports skin hydration
- Zinc, biotin, and antioxidants for additional skin and hair support
It can vary, but initial improvements in skin hydration and “glow” can be seen within three to four weeks, Lahey says. “Clinical studies show that more significant changes, such as a visible reduction in wrinkles or improved skin firmness, typically appear after about eight to 12 weeks of daily use.”
Many people find that their nails are growing faster and feel stronger, she says. “They might also experience less hair breakage or shedding. These small changes all build up over time into visible improvements.”
What are the first signs that collagen is working?
- Skin feels more hydrated and supple
- Fine lines appear softer
- Nails grow faster and feel stronger
- Less morning stiffness or joint discomfort
- Improved post-exercise recovery or reduced muscle soreness
Are there any side effects or risks of taking collagen?
Most collagen supplements are generally well tolerated, which makes collagen side effects quite rare. “Mild side effects, when they do occur, may include bloating or a feeling of fullness,” says Alderson. But anyone with a fish, shellfish, or egg allergy should be diligent in checking the source of their collagen, she cautions.
If side effects do occur, simply stop taking your collagen supplement until they’re resolved. Then, you can decide whether to continue or not.
How to choose a collagen supplement
Alderson says there are a few things to look out for in a high-quality collagen product:
- Hydrolyzed or collagen peptides, as they’re easier to digest and absorb
- Clear labelling of the collagen type (I, II, or III) so you know what you’re consuming
- Minimal ingredients. No fillers, artificial sweeteners, or unnecessary additives
- Third-party testing for quality and purity
- Sustainable, ethical sourcing—especially with marine or bovine products
- Evidence-based dosage—around 2.5 to 10 grams daily for skin, 10 to 15 grams for joints
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