The world’s largest climate summit has just wrapped in Belém, Brazil. 194 countries attended — all but the US, Afghanistan and Myanmar. Yet, Brazil’s commitment to multilateralism, led by President Lula, helped the world remain unfazed by the absence of its largest superpower. In fact, in the face of what UN climate chief Simon Stiell called “denial, division and geopolitics”, nearly every other nation signaled that international climate cooperation remains intact.
COP has felt increasingly unstable in recent years. Decisions in Dubai during COP28 shifted the dial on the energy transition, resulting in the first-ever acknowledgment that fossil fuels must be phased down, but leaving deep divisions between oil-producing nations and those calling for a full phase-out. Many felt the compromise language avoided confronting production, focusing instead on future technologies and carbon capture. Meanwhile, last year’s summit in Baku (COP29) focused on scaling a new global finance goal, but failed to clarify how funds would be delivered or enforced, with major economies resisting binding commitments and deadlines.
COP30 was intended to mark a transition from pledges to implementation. Targets were filed in advance so negotiators could focus on securing near-term action, which many hoped would finally confront the most urgent issue of all: the phase-out of fossil fuels.
They did not. After a sleepless night of interventions and crossed-out paragraphs, the most consequential words of our time were the ones missing from the final text.
The final COP30 text, known as the mutirão (a Portuguese word of Indigenous Brazilian origin that translates to “collective effort”), was agreed by nearly every country in the world. The non-binding agreement calls for a tripling of adaptation finance, supports just transition principles and sets up the Global Implementation Accelerator — a voluntary initiative to help countries turn their emissions targets and national adaptation plans into action.
But fossil fuels — responsible for around 90% of global CO2 emissions — were not mentioned in the COP30 outcome. This omission came despite governments (including the EU) threatening to walk out, and despite unanimous scientific consensus that a rapid and managed phase-out is essential to keep global warming below 1.5°C. Laurence Tubiana, architect of the Paris Agreement, called the decision “irrational”.
Many will argue the language was removed under pressure from lobbying petrostates like Saudi Arabia, as previous drafts included wording on a “transition away from fossil fuels”. One in every 25 attendees were fossil fuel lobbyists this year, according to the Kick Big Polluters Out (KBPO) coalition.
For the fashion industry, the implications of this omission are immediate: from energy-intensive production and synthetic fabrics to sprawling global supply chains, fossil fuel use drives both emissions and costs. COP30’s outcomes will shape how brands meet sustainability targets and plan for a low-carbon future.
While headlines this week will rightly focus on what was left out of the deal, there were other developments beyond the final wording that may also prove consequential.
The first-ever ‘fossil fuel conference’ in 2026
The final mutirão agreement failed to mention fossil fuels. But COP30 President André Corrêa do Lago did, loud and clear. In his closing statement, Lago announced plans to form a working group that will create a fossil fuel transition roadmap, guided by science.
What’s more, Colombia came forward to propose the world’s first dedicated fossil fuel conference.
It’s scheduled to take place in Santa Marta in April 2026, co-hosting with the Netherlands, and will bring together governments, industry leaders, scientists and civil society to explore pathways for a just and equitable transition. “This will ensure that the conversations continue and that collectively we can build the roadmap for the fossil-free future we need,” said Vanuatu climate minister Ralph Regenvanu.
Unlike COP negotiations, which often dilute wording to reach a consensus, the fossil fuel conference will be designed to focus squarely on production, financing and the climate justice of moving away from fossil fuels. It could provide new frameworks and commitments to help brands decarbonize their supply chains in the coming years.
Adaptation finance tripled
One of the quieter — but potentially game-changing — outcomes of COP30 was a major boost in what’s called adaptation finance, essentially meaning the money we need to be resilient in the face of climate impacts.
Vulnerable countries like Jamaica and India are set to benefit from a pledge to triple the funds available — $120 billion annually by 2035, up from $40 billion per year. This money is designed to support everything from flood defenses and coastal protection to resilient agriculture and disaster preparedness.
There was also incremental progress on loss and damage finance — an initial $250 million made available for countries to apply for grants by mid-December, with the first approvals expected by July 2026. For developing countries preparing funding requests, assistance is available from the Santiago Network, a UN mechanism that connects climate-vulnerable countries with technical expertise.
Ten years ago, loss and damage was inscribed as the third pillar of the Paris Agreement. So while this year’s figure demonstrates some progress, it’s a drop in the ocean compared to what is needed to address the scale of impact — projected at around $724 billion a year.
For nations on the front lines of extreme weather, these steps are a lifeline. Meanwhile, sectors like fashion and beauty, which rely on raw materials and supply chains in these regions, stand to benefit as stronger adaptation funding could mitigate disruptions and support more resilient sourcing strategies.
Wins for forests, clean energy and a circular economy
COP30 did demonstrate that finance and implementation are increasingly moving from rhetoric to action. One of the biggest wins was the establishment of the Tropical Forests Forever Facility (TFFF), a blended public-private fund launched in Belém with $6.5 billion in pledges.
Major contributions include a $3 billion commitment from Norway, with at least 20% earmarked for Indigenous peoples and local communities who are front line stewards of the forests. While the UK helped design the fund and was expected to be a major backer, it ultimately declined to contribute — a decision that drew sharp criticism. The government cited struggling public finances as the main concern. But critics argue that the decision reflects a domestic-first strategy under Prime Minister Keir Starmer, tying his climate finance choices to budgetary pressures and signaling a political balancing act.
Even so, money is moving elsewhere. And for fashion brands, this has tangible ramifications. A total of $50 million in catalytic capital is being directed toward regional agricultural transitions, which could influence the sourcing of natural fibers such as cotton and plant-based alternatives.
Globally, $140 billion has been mobilized for clean industrial projects — 33% of which are in emerging economies such as Brazil, India and Egypt — regions that are home to textile factories.
Nature-based solutions are gaining traction through the Earth Investment Engine (EIE), which launched with over 700 investable projects worth nearly $30 billion. Spanning reforestation and sustainable forest-based businesses, these initiatives could support the production of wood and plant fibers. COP30 statements primarily reference governments and major financial partners, so the application process and eligibility criteria for brands remain unclear. Still, there is hope that supply chain actors could participate by partnering with approved stakeholders. Circular economy initiatives are also being funded, with $30 million allocated to improve sustainable material flows and reduce waste. While modest compared with global supply chain needs, this funding could help brands pilot innovations in recycling, upcycling and regenerative production systems, laying the groundwork for wider scale adoption if successful.
People power and Indigenous advocacy
Belém’s streets bore witness to the human face of climate urgency. Over 70,000 people joined local protests, the largest since Glasgow’s COP26 in 2021, with Indigenous voices at the forefront, demanding that their land rights and traditions be protected, as well as decisive climate action as a matter of urgency for those most affected by rising temperatures, deforestation, flooding and industrial pollution in countries like Brazil.
Alessandra Korap, who led the protests that brought much of the COP30 proceedings to a standstill, played a pivotal role in advocating for Indigenous land rights.
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She spearheaded the push for the demarcation of 10 new Indigenous territories in Brazil, a move that would legally protect vast areas of rainforest from logging, mining and industrial encroachment. Korap’s leadership highlights how Indigenous communities are not just symbolic voices at COP, but active agents shaping policy and safeguarding ecosystems that supply raw materials for global industries. For brands, her activism is a direct signal: supply chains tied to deforested or contested land must end, and respect for Indigenous rights is no longer optional, but central to credible sustainability strategies.
Regenerative fashion campaign We Are All Forests, which aims to build solidarity with Indigenous people while generating livelihoods for local artisans, was launched by #Togetherband and Bottletop founder (and son of the Mulberry family) Cameron Saul. As part of the campaign, a collection of bracelets crafted by the Yawanawá Indigenous peoples in the Amazon and made from açai seeds, recycled illegal Humanium firearm metal and Parley Ocean Plastic thread, is helping to raise funds for the Yawanawá Socio Cultural Association (ASCY), which protects 250,000 hectares of rainforest.
The momentum around the campaign is growing far and wide, with endorsements all the way from Minister of Indigenous Peoples Sonia Guajajara and Brazilian supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio, to internationally renowned names like Jane Fonda, Rodrigo Santoro and Joaquin Phoenix. It’s all about protecting the Amazon, and economically empowering the Indigenous communities who defend it.
Looking ahead: Türkiye and Australia in cahoots
Türkiye has secured the hosting rights for COP31 in Antalya in 2026, which it will hold in collaboration with Australia. Antalya is a hub for the global textile and apparel industry, providing a natural platform for fashion-specific side events, exhibitions, and dialogs on sustainable materials and circular systems. The city’s geographic position as a bridge between Europe and Asia also makes it a symbolically powerful venue for fostering inclusive cooperation in ways that reflect the global nature of fashion supply chains.
Ultimately, silence on fossil fuels will be history’s headline. But progress continues in parallel, through finance, forests and the people pushing for justice on the ground. Fashion is deeply exposed to climate risk, yet also uniquely placed to move faster than politics. With COP31 set in a textiles hub, next year will test whether industries can lead where governments hesitate.
