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The spring/summer haute couture 2025 collections were all about storytelling—and that went for the beauty as well as the clothes. From the return of the classic red lip at Chanel to the refreshed smoky eye at Armani Privé, Vogue spotlights five fantastical beauty looks, fresh from the couture runways in Paris.
(Very) wet-look hair at Jean Paul Gaultier
Ludovic de Saint Sernin injected fun elements of his personality into his guest collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, down to the hair. Think bohemian, face-framing pieces taken to a new and dramatic extreme. Guido Palau’s slicked-down strands framed the skull, tracing lines around the models’ cheekbones and down to their jawlines. The designer took the theme of “Le Naufrage”—meaning shipwreck—and the delicate veils encasing the models’ hair helped to keep that just-washed-ashore look firmly in place.
Opalescent eyes at Schiaparelli
Gold and yellow tones permeated Daniel Roseberry’s collection—named “Icarus” in a nod to the Ancient Greek myth—shades makeup legend Pat McGrath ensured were echoed in the ultra-glowy beauty look. Pearlescent blush, bleached eyebrows, and cool yellow pastel eyes cruised down the runway in Paris. “Runway radiance meets divine detailing,” said McGrath of the moonbeam-esque highlight enhancing models’ eyes and cheekbones.
The classic red lip at Chanel
Chanel signaled the return of the striking red lip at this season’s haute couture show in Paris. Amidst the pale and muted tones in the collection, the flashes of scarlet were impossible to miss. The beauty team used three different shades —Le Rouge Mat 21 Rouge Rencontre, Rouge Allure Velvet 449 Sophistiquée, and 458 Sensuelle—to complement the models’ skin tones, while the rest of the makeup was kept simple. The brief? “An elegant, natural complexion.”
Graphic brows at Dior
Brushed-up brows are the talk of the town, thanks to the creative and image director for Dior Makeup Peter Philips. To complement Guido Palau’s grandiose feathered mohawks, Philips kept the models’ faces bare but for a small amount of foundation, setting powder and blush to keep the look matte, finishing with a generous swipe of brow gel. The entire look was constructed “in harmony with a new Alice in Wonderland,” said Philips. “I offered a perfectly clean, glowy, and radiant face, with a touch of pink on the cheeks, and a graphic eyebrow.” The eyebrows were “brushed upwards and together” to create visible gaps. As for the lips? They were subtly enhanced using Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil in Universal Clear.
An exaggerated smoky eye at Armani Privé
At Armani Privé’s 20th anniversary show, a new rendition of the smoky eye graced the runway. Mimicking dramatic fluttery lashes from afar, bright white eyeshadow was applied to the entire eyelid, contrasting with the powdery charcoal that grazed the corners of the eyes, stretching out to each model’s temples. The sultry metallic effect was the perfect partner to those shimmering dresses.