All products featured on Vogue are independently selected by our editors. However, we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links.
Confession of a longtime beauty writer: I have never used foundation. Sure, the product has been forced upon me and my face on random photoshoots and at weddings, but I myself have never been a proponent of the approach. Instead, I’ve opted to spot-treat through color correcting. So when I saw “demi method makeup” trending on TikTok, I got a little thrill at the prospect of next-gen color correction.
Rather than relying on a layer of foundation to perfect the face, demi makeup makes use of tiny and strategic applications of concealer, contour, and bronzer to color correct specific spots, still yielding a perfect canvas like foundation would. “In this case, it’s micro-color correcting,” says makeup artist Katie Mellinger, who is quick to note that the concept is nothing new. “If you examine these small areas on the skin where we see “imperfections,” they contain a range of undertones that we want to correct."
The method makes use of color theory (the understanding of which is another extremely useful old-is-new-again 2023 trend), allowing fans to address their skin segment by segment, as if accenting a work of art. “All makeup is made up of every color from the color wheel, so when you are micro-color correcting an area, you are breaking down those colors in that area,” explains Mellinger. “It gets down to the nitty gritty rather than trying to sum it up with one basic color.”
Demi makeup may require significant attention to detail, but the results speak for themselves—or rather, don’t. “This trend is appealing because it really is a less-is-more, smart approach to doing your makeup,” says makeup artist David Birdwell. “It’s something that I do a lot for male grooming to polish someone’s look without having them look like they’re wearing anything at all. It’s undetectable when done correctly.”
Step one involves selecting your shades, an entirely personal process. “If you find color correction confusing, I find it handy to keep a small color wheel around—you can purchase them at any art store,” says Mellinger. “The color that’s opposite the color you want to conceal is the shade/undertone of the product you want to use.”
Look at your canvas closely (ideally in natural lighting), identifying the myriad shades that comprise the area you’re looking to obscure. “One trick specifically for brown skin tones, is to use a peach, red, or orange-toned color corrector to neutralize and counteract any bluish or greenish undertones on the skin,” says makeup artist Naseeha Khan, founder of CTZN Cosmetics. “Red color correctors are great for helping neutralize dark spots on deeper melanated skin tones.”
Once you ve identified the areas you want to correct and the colors with which to do so, it s time to apply. Mellinger recommends using as little product as possible (you can build as needed), along with small, fluffy brushes, reaching for small stiff-bristled brushes for microscopic areas. A primer can help ensure that your diminutive touches of pigment go on smooth and stay put, while a dusting of sheer pressed powder helps to set the look. But ultimately, this method really comes down to thoughtfulness, artistry, and a little self-education.
“This is an academic approach to doing makeup, so do your homework!” says Birwell. “Practice makes perfect when it comes to this technique, and less is always more, so building and blending is essential.”
So brush up on your color theory and try your hand at the demi method! Even if you end up favoring a full-face look, more intel on your unique complexion and the colors that comprise it can only enhance your routine.
