Showing in Kyoto for the first time in over seven decades, Dior chose Toji Temple to present its pre-fall 2025 collection. Here, Peter Philips, Dior’s creative and image director of makeup, gives Vogue an exclusive look into the models’ makeup for the historic show.
First of all, please can you describe the makeup for this show?
We aimed for a very pure, natural finish and used different nuances of pink in the makeup to match the skin tones of the various models. For Asian and pale skin tones, we used a soft pastel pink blush as eyeshadow—to give a watercolour-like effect. For dark skin tones, a deep Bordeaux color imitated the deep color of a flower in bloom. The theme was soft and delicate texture, as if the color had been blended with water.
What was the inspiration behind the makeup?
The pink eye is inspired by Japanese cherry blossoms, along with the smooth skin. The rest of the makeup is very simple. Besides the pink color under the eye, there is no highlight, no contour, and no blush. Instead, the blush color is placed under the eye and blended out to create a natural, yet striking look. Instead of creating something round, I made it look more free and bold—as if it were at one with the skin.
What role did eyeliner and mascara play in this look?
I used a brown waterproof liner—not to outline the eyes, but to deepen the shadows. To do this, I placed the ink a little further away from the corner of the eye, as if I were extending the shadow created by the eyelid. Brown mascara is lightly applied to the outer corner lashes only, and I chose the color because it blends naturally with the eye. Black would have been too strong.
What were the conversations like with Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri when you were thinking about the makeup for the show?
We actually only had light communication, actually: “Here’s what’s going to happen next.” Normally, the show is held first, followed by the look, and then campaign shoots, but this time we did the opposite. The look and campaign shoots were already completed before the show. Because I knew the show would be held in Japan in the spring, I naturally thought of cherry blossoms and pink. It was an almost automatic choice.
What do you think will be the next big beauty trend in 2025?
I do think a glowing, glossy look will continue to be the most popular. And, recently, eyeshadows have gradually returned, a trend I think will continue. I think soft pastels such as lavender and pink and colors that naturally blend in with skin tones will be favored over bright colors. Even eyeliner should now be blended in, like a shadow would, rather than a clear line. As for eyebrows, I still like soft finishes with a firm shape, but nothing too graphically defined.
