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For Maria Grazia Chiuri s 2024 pre-fall Dior show, she brought the French house to the Brooklyn Museum—and added a few other decidedly American twists. For runway beauty mainstays Peter Philips (who is Dior Beauty s creative and image director) and Guido Palau, the brief was… well, concise and to the point.
“Marlene Dietrich is a big part of inspiration,” Philips says “She could be extremely glam, but had this other side also, dressing in men s suits and reinventing her sexuality in a very controversial way for the era.”
For the makeup, that meant leaning into a more traditionally masculine space. Complexion was naturally glowy without a touch of pearlescent highlighter or contour and brows gently filled in an extended. “This is the second time we have ever done a look for Maria Grazia,” Philips added with happiness. "I want it to have mood. A bitten lip, like when you have a glass of wine." That came from dabbing on two shades from the Rouge Dior Forever Transfer-Proof Lipstick onto the middle of lips with an eyeshadow brush.
Palau s hair styling was where the feminine side of things came in. “It s not totally retro, but inspired by the glamour of the 1940s,” he says. Hair was parted deeply on the side and then curled, but left with volume at the front. The cohesion of the waves was all in the brush out, which required clips and lots of hairspray, as well as a team of braiders on-site, who had been adding in plaits to certain models hair since yesterday.
“Guido went glam with the hair and I went raw with the makeup,” Philips reflected on the look. “When you see her you re thinking ‘who is this girl?’” Apparently, she s a New Yorker.
