An Ode to the OG Collagen Face Cream

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Collagen cream is a notably burgeoning—and buzzy—category in the skin-care space these days. From K-beauty finds to viral TikTok Shop discoveries, a new formula always seems to promise to boost skin’s collagen production. But no matter how many come across my feed or land in Vogue’s beauty closet, I always think of the OG: Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream.

Back in 2003 when it debuted—after 52 formulations and two clinical trials, mind you—there wasn’t anything quite like it on the market that stressed the importance of collagen and replenishing its reserves. (FYI, signs that you’re losing collagen include dryness, more pronounced expression lines, sagging, and skin laxity.)

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Elemis

Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

  • Why We Love It: Elemis’s Pro-Collagen Marine Cream draws upon marine and plant actives to transform one’s complexion. Board-certified dermatologist Dara Spearman recommends it for those seeking to treat and prevent signs of aging, such as crepey skin, fine lines, and wrinkles. Its antiaging benefits are bolstered by its sensorial application experience, marked by a subtle floral scent and weightless gel-like consistency.
  • Key Ingredients: Ginkgo-biloba-leaf extract, chlorella, Padina pavonica, rose, mimosa, collagen amino acids
  • Size: 15 ml, 30 ml, 50 ml, 100 ml

True to its name, the formula is enriched with collagen amino acids, which, according to board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp, are the building blocks of larger collagen proteins. “It is thought that these peptides can more effectively penetrate the skin than the larger collagen molecule and encourage collagen production,” Dr. Camp says. The jury is still out on whether collagen is as effective when applied topically (versus ingested via the best collagen supplements), so this product looks to other potent ingredients to combat visible signs of collagen decline.

After years of research, Elemis discovered the skin-rejuvenating benefits of Padina pavonica, also known as brown algae. “Padina pavonica is brimming with antioxidants to shield your skin against free radicals, harmful atoms that attack collagen and speed up premature aging,” Elemis cofounder and global president Noella Gabriel tells Vogue. That means it reduces signs of oxidative stress, which occurs when things like sunlight, pollution, and other toxins gradually deteriorate the skin barrier. Dr. Spearman echoes these claims: “These nutrients work to soothe the skin, strengthen its natural barrier, and maintain healthy moisture levels. With regular use, they can also improve skin firmness and texture, resulting in a smoother and more radiant appearance.”

Gingko biloba and mimosa are featured too. “Ginkgo biloba helps improve circulation and defends the skin from everyday damage caused by things like pollution and sun exposure,” Dr. Spearman continues. “This can lead to a more even tone and smoother texture. Mimosa gently soothes the skin and supports collagen, which helps maintain firmness and softness. Both ingredients play a helpful role in keeping skin healthy, balanced, and more resistant to early signs of aging.”

Is the Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream Worth It?

Its well-rounded ingredient list (centered around sustainably sourced plant and marine actives) makes it an attractive buy. Its SPF-infused variant is also one of our favorite wrinkle creams. “Wrinkle creams should offer both moisturizing and antiaging properties,” Dr. Camp explains, recommending consumers to look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin, and shea butter to improve moisture retention, plus niacinamide, algae, retinols, bakuchiol, and botanicals with antioxidant properties to help minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Elemis’s offering is packed with efficacious ingredients for hydration, plumping, and repair.

“In addition to being an option for those with mature skin,” Dr. Camp says, “this product can also be used by those simply looking for an effective moisturizer.”

My Experience With the Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

Like any of the leading luxury cosmetics on the market, a sensorial experience is a must, and Pro-Collagen Marine Cream certainly delivers. Its silky cream texture feels weightless on the skin, layering well with other products in my routine. This is the feature that keeps me reaching for it nightly; it’s hard to find a face moisturizer that toes the line of lasting nourishment without greasiness (which would exacerbate my skin’s oiliness) or stickiness. It’s exceptionally gentle, and I know my skin will remain calm and balanced regardless of what else my routine calls for that evening.

At 30, I can’t yet personally speak to this product’s ability to smooth wrinkles, but I can say that it has enhanced my skin’s firmness, bounce, and glow, which Dr. Spearman says is to be expected. “Some early improvements, such as smoother texture or better hydration, can appear quickly, but deeper changes like reduced fine lines or improved firmness usually take more time,” she says. “Ingredients that support collagen and skin repair often need at least four to eight weeks of consistent use to show noticeable results. Using the product regularly and giving it time is important for the best outcome.”

With notes of rose and mimosa, the scent here is designed to enhance the application experience. “Aromatherapy is an important part of our heritage,” says Gabriel. “We believe in the power of engaging all the senses on your skin wellness journey.” I find the scent delicate, refreshing, and spa-like, though that may not be best for some skin types. “The presence of fragrance or perfume in the formula may cause irritation for those with sensitive or reactive skin,” Dr. Spearman says. “Because of this, patch testing is recommended to ensure the product is well tolerated.” But if you’re like me and delight in feminine floral, you’re in for a treat.

Those interested in reaping these benefits can shop the classic cream or other offerings from its Pro-Collagen line, including its SPF 30, night cream, or cleansing balm—each of which harnesses the power of the sea to yield a healthier, more youthful complexion.

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Elemis

Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

Shop more of Vogue’s favorite Elemis products below.

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Elemis

Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm

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Elemis

Superfood Facial Oil

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Elemis

Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads

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Elemis

Pro-Collagen Marine Cream SPF 30

Meet the Experts

  • Brendan Camp, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist who sees patients in New York and Long Island.
  • Noella Gabriel is the global president and cofounder of Elemis.
  • Dara Spearman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist practicing in Fort Wayne, Indiana, who specializes in melanoma and skin-cancer care.