A robust and healthy skin barrier is key to good skin health overall. Whether it’s down to the sheer volume of skincare routine videos on social media, or people’s ever-growing interest in holistic health, the skin barrier is once again one of the buzziest topics in the world of beauty.
Key Takeaways
Maintaining a healthy skin barrier can help you with good skin health overall in the long run. In dermatology, the skin barrier is known as the epidermis, and it can be disrupted by both internal and external factors, such as poor diet or overexposure to pollution. The good news is that your skin barrier can be restored with the correct products and treatments.
What is the skin barrier?
The skin barrier is “the very top layer of your skin—the stratum corneum—and the slightly acidic ‘mantle’ and the community of microbes that live there,” Dr. Eirini Merika, consultant dermatologist at Eucerin explains. “Skin cells are stacked together like bricks and held together by a waxy mortar of lipids, which are ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids,” she adds.
Dermatologist Mary Sommerlad MD, breaks down the factors that can disrupt the skin barrier, either intrinsic, extrinsic, or a combination of the two. “Intrinsic factors include skin barrier diseases that have a genetic component, such as eczema and ichthyosis, and high levels of stress and illness,” she adds. Extrinsic factors can include excessive exposure to harsh weather elements, such as too much sun or wind, or extremes of temperature, and exposure to potential chemical irritants, such as certain active skincare ingredients, like AHAs and retinoids. Not to mention factors such as pollution, smoking, poor sleep, and allergens.
Skin barrier aggressors are everywhere, but the common reason for impairment consultant dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto sees in her clinic is the overuse of actives and using too many products all at once, she says. “The skin becomes overwhelmed, and, as a result, the barrier becomes compromised.”
What are the signs that the skin barrier is damaged?
“If you struggle to keep moisture in and your skin feels dry and tight, you might be suffering from an impaired skin barrier,” says Dr. Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist and chief medical officer at Klira. “It can be ashy or flaky, and can feel irritated (or sting) after any chemical formula is applied. You might also experience acne breakouts, rosacea, and eczema.”
Skin might also appear redder or darker than its original color, plus itchiness is a common symptom. “The texture is likely to change, and feel bumpier and rough,” says Dr Sommerlad. Those with sensitive skin are more predisposed to suffering from an impaired skin barrier, so they need to be extra vigilant about keeping it strong and healthy.
Which other factors affect our skin barrier?
“Many things can chip away at the barrier,” says Dr. David Jack. “Over-exfoliation is a big culprit that is increasingly common with overuse of skincare,” he says. “Even everyday habits like washing in very hot water or neglecting daily SPF gradually erode its function.”
It’s also important to consider factors coming from within—stress, lack of sleep, hormonal shifts, and poor nutrition can all weaken barrier resilience. Age is also a factor, says facialist Sarah Chapman. “As we get older, our skin slows down its own production of lipids, ceramides, and hydrators, which are three key components that make up the skin barrier.”
How to repair your skin barrier
The first thing you should do is identify and eliminate any triggers that may be contributing to skin barrier damage. “Strip your skincare routine back and keep it simple,” suggests facialist Katharine Mackenzie Paterson. “Think cleanser, moisturiser and SPF—remove any retinoids or acids, in particular.” When it comes to your cleanser, she recommends opting for a nourishing, calming, and fragrance-free cleansing milk or cream, and stick to your simplified skincare routine and “try not to chop and change too much, because it takes weeks to get things under control,” says Dr. Craythorne. “It can actually get worse before it gets better.”
Look for ceramide-rich moisturizers and incorporate hyaluronic acid into your routine to soothe and hydrate the skin, says Dr Sommerlad. “Seek out barrier-building ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide, and fatty acids,” says Dr. Marco Nicoloso, aesthetic doctor at Ouronyx. “They will all help improve dryness and strengthen the barrier.” To take down inflammation and help instigate the repair process, facialist Shane Cooper recommends trying red light therapy—you can use an at-home LED mask or visit a facialist. He combines it with lots of rich skincare formulas to help restore moisture.
Gently does it
It might sound obvious, but as well as paring back your skincare routine, it’s important to avoid anything that manually exfoliates the skin, like overly rough face cloths or scrubs. “You should also use lukewarm water to avoid further irritation,” says Dr. Mahto, who adds that there’s no quick fix. “I would conservatively say that you can expect to see an improvement in the barrier in three to four weeks – for longer-term damage, it can take upwards of three months.”
Cut out actives…
… And then reintroduce them slowly—but only when skin is healthy again. “Reintroduce one active at a time (for example, use retinoids for a few weeks before adding a vitamin C or liquid exfoliator back in), but if you have chronic skin barrier dysfunction, you should always opt for more gentle actives,” says Dr Sommerlad. For example, you might swap retinol for retinaldehyde because it is gentler on the skin. In terms of acids, seek out PHAs rather than AHAs. “And use fluid-based sunscreens as they require less rubbing in than creams,” adds Dr. Sommerlad.
How to prevent further damage
“Like everything in life, a healthy skin barrier is all about moderation and balance,” says Mackenzie Paterson. “Try to avoid any triggers that have caused it in the past, and don’t chop and change the products you’re using every five minutes.” Take a holistic approach to your routine and listen to your skin, especially when adding a new active ingredient, advises Chapman, who says it’s all about starting slow and allowing the skin time to adjust.
Protection is key, so use an antioxidant-rich serum or moisturizer and broad-spectrum SPF every morning to protect your barrier from UV, pollutants, and other environmental aggressors, and prioritise sleep. That’s when the skin’s natural repairing and rebuilding processes peak, and without it, skin can suffer.
“Ensure you’re eating a healthy, balanced diet, with lots of rich fatty foods, like nuts, fruit and fish,” recommends Cooper, while Chapman’s big advice is to start taking a high-quality omega oil supplement every day. “You will notice a huge difference in your skin’s resilience and overall health.”
Have a beauty or wellness trend you re curious about? We want to know! Send Vogue s senior beauty wellness editor an email at beauty@vogue.com.