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They say the eyes are the window to the soul—but even the most radiant windows could sometimes use a little window dressing. Unfortunately, many of us neglect the delicate skin around our eyes, which is actually some of our thinnest and most sensitive. To wit: Even tears can weaken this fragile skin.
Decoding common concerns
If you’re prone to dark circles, crow’s feet, or puffing, you may be wondering why me? Genetics could play a factor—but they’re not as determinate as you may think. “It is estimated that genes influence around 15-25% of the issues, so the rest is really lifestyle and environmental factors,” explains Marta Agustí, dermo-cosmetic director of skincare brand Boutijour.
As for those factors, “lack of sleep, dehydration, high salt intake, or excess alcohol” are often the major culprits behind issues like eye puffiness and undereye circles, according to London-based facialist Sarah Chapman, who counts celebrities, beauty editors, and skincare enthusiasts as her regular clientele. “Prioritizing good rest, staying well hydrated, and cutting back on salt or alcohol in the evening can make a big difference in how your eyes look and feel the next day,” she notes.
That said, the skin around the eyes is between 0.2 and 0.3 millimeters thinner than the skin around the rest of your face and has few sebaceous glands, which contributes to a lack of hydration. Plus, the area is filled with dozens of micro-muscles that are constantly moving to squint, blink, and convey expression, which contributes to wear and tear on the skin. So tending to the skin carefully is crucial—and learning to apply eye care products properly is paramount.
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How to apply eye cream
Often, we only remember to apply eye cream when we’re about to apply concealer. However, this really doesn’t give the area the pampering it deserves. Applying eye cream correctly will not only provide a better base for makeup, it will also prevent the appearance of fine lines, shadows, and dreaded undereye bags.
So when, exactly, should eye cream be applied then? And, how much is the right amount? According Chapman, theree are some key factors to keep in mind. For one, it’s important to always use a gentle “press and tap” technique, as this stimulates lymphatic drainage and reduces puffiness. Also, don’t to be too rough: Remember not to rub, pull, or use too much product. Avoid applying the cream too close to the lash line, as this can cause irritation; ideally, the product should be left on the orbital bone and allowed to drift down naturally. And, you may want to store your eye cream in the fridge to boost the soothing effects.
Below, Chapman provides her precise steps for applying eye cream like a pro. Follow these, and your eyes will appear like the mesmerizing windows to the soul they are meant to be.
Smile in front of the mirror to detect where expression lines form. This is where you’ll concentrate most of the product. Dispense a tiny amount of product—think: the size of a grain of rice—to the tip of your ring finger. This finger is your weakest finger and will allow you to apply as little pressure to the skin as possible.
Now, tap your ring finger just below the eyebrow, onto the upper eyelid—another delicate area that requires gentle care. Don’t stress about the undereye; thanks to natural blinking movement, the cream will travel to the lower area organically.
To reduce the appearance of other expression lines, Chapman recommends applying a little eye cream to “the 11s”— the space between the eyebrows prone to vertical expression lines.
If there’s any product left on your finger, tap it lightly along crow’s feet or other smile lines.
Eye cream for day or night?
When faced with the question of whether to use a day or night eye cream—or both—Champman emphasizes that “a well-formulated eye cream” can be used both day and night.
“Although skin may have slightly different needs depending on the time of day, the key thing is to choose a product that is intelligently designed to address multiple concerns at once,” she explains.
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