Liking ice cream is hardly a niche interest in and of itself. But, in recent months—in London, at least—there’s been a pronounced spike in interest in the frozen stuff among a curious coterie of people. Whether it’s served at brand functions, directional vintage stores or scene-y bars, this summer, the city’s style set is going gaga for niche gelato.
But what, exactly, is fueling this wave of appreciation for chic ice cream among an audience of people who you don’t typically associate with sweet treats? Well, who doesn’t like ice cream, duh—and, if we’re being frank, should you really trust anyone who doesn’t? Moreover, though, this new wave of British ice cream brands see—and offer—themselves as more than just that: with directional branding, pop-ups in all the right places—think: Celine stores and Dalston’s latest queer it-bars—and community-centric approaches, they’re fully-fledged brands that speak to their audiences in a similar way that cultishly adored fashion brands do.
Which makes perfect sense, given that the faces behind some of the city’s most considered independent ice cream brands are, in fact, seasoned fashion folk: from Charms—run by Calvin Holmes, a former menswear buyer at SSENSE—to Baobae—fronted fashion’s go-to legal consultant Lex Shu Chan; &chill—owned by Larissa Stange, a former Liberty buyer—and TKTK, a forthcoming joint venture by artist Nicole Coson and British Vogue contributing photographer Alex Paganelli (aka Deadhungry).
Below, we get to know three of London’s ice-cold brands getting the scoop on the drippy cross-section of the worlds of style and ice cream (sorry!), pushing frozen desserts into their coolest territory yet.
Lex Shu Chan, founder of Baobae
Vogue: When did your love for ice cream start? And what are some of your defining memories involving it?
Lex Shu Chan: Growing up between Hong Kong and Toronto, ice cream was one of those universal languages of pleasure that transcended context. Equally, a scoop of ice cream also holds a quiet kind of power during harder times, letting us escape from whatever we are carrying, even if for a moment. I have strong memories of McDonald’s soft serve and Meiji ice cream bars in Hong Kong (with Häagen-Dazs as the ultimate treat) and the endless variety of Baskin Robbins flavors in Canada. It is a joyful and nostalgic space for me, but also one that feels endless when it comes to playful reinterpretation.
What were you doing before launching your ice cream venture?
I was (and still am) a lawyer and work with a range of clients from independent artists and designers to brands and creative studios, advising on legal and strategic matters that support creative work in all its forms. That practice actually informs a lot of how I approach Baobae—being intentional about collaborations and creating something that evolves over time.
And what do you think makes it feel distinct?
What makes Baobae (Chinese for “precious" or “treasured” and more colloquially “babe”) distinct is that it really sits at the intersection of ice cream, pop culture and community. Baobae is intentionally maximalist, playful, and rooted in my own experiences as a Third Culture Kid growing up between Hong Kong, Canada and the UK. The flavors are unconventional and often a little nostalgic, but the world around them is equally important: drawing from club culture, anime, streetwear, nail art and all the things that have shaped me creatively.
Baobae is proudly trans-owned and rooted in the queer community. It is about bringing the party and celebrating self-expression, joy, and creating energy shifts, whether that means turning a dull Monday into a beach day or making a rainy weekend feel like a rave with your besties.
Why do you think ice cream is so hot right now? And why do you think it’s resonating so well in fashion contexts in particular?
Fashion and ice cream might seem like an unexpected pairing, but I think they share a very similar kind of escapism. Both are about transformation and stepping into a mood and playing with identity. A great flavor can shift your energy the way a fab look can, and both are sensory and ephemeral in the best way.
What’s your creative process behind ideating new flavors?
Often, I will ask people around me about their favorite flavor profiles and challenge myself to translate those into ice cream. When I am creating for myself, there are no real parameters. I will wander through grocery stores, snack aisles or markets and just see what catches my eye. A trip to an Asian supermarket or bakery always sparks new ideas.
When I am creating for a particular event or collaboration, I actually enjoy having parameters, especially when there is a specific ingredient or story to anchor the flavor narrative around. I was once asked to develop a flavor for a Japanese whisky brand and as someone who does not drink much whisky, it was a completely new space for me, but that made it even more fun to experiment and find a way in through the flavor rather than personal familiarity.
What are some things that you’ve learned in the course of founding and launching your ice cream business?
Everything melts (literally and metaphorically). Machines break, flavors flop, the batch you swore was perfect turns weird overnight. Ice cream is basically controlled chaos and you are always one degree away from disaster. Luckily, catastrophic thinking and risk management come pretty naturally to a lawyer.
What’s your favorite classic ice cream flavor? And what’s your favorite flavor that you’ve created?
I love chocolate in all its forms, from the perfect dark chocolate gelato I once had in Bologna to a good old-fashioned rocky road. As for my own creations, I am especially proud of a burnt honey, miso and glazed pecan flavor. It hits that sweet spot between savory and sweet with a little bit of crunch which is very much my kind of balance.
Where can people sample your ice cream?
This summer, I will be popping up every weekend at Roses of Elagabalus in Dalston, serving ice cream straight out of the hatch from 12 p.m. until sundown. I am rotating four new flavors of ice creams and sorbets each month, often inspired by their brilliant cocktail menus, so there is always something new to try. This month is Spanish-themed, so I developed an olive oil and tomato jam ice cream. On paper, it sounds a bit unusual, but the balance works beautifully.
I am also collaborating on a few supper clubs, including one with my very talented friend Kenneth Lam to celebrate his beautiful exhibition at the Museum of the Home. And in true Baobae fashion, there may be a few spontaneous appearances at open-air parties and wherever the queer community happens to be gathering. I tend to operate a little chaotically, so the best way to keep up is to follow us @baobae.world!
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Calvin Holmes, founder of Charms
Vogue: When did your love for ice cream start?
Calvin Holmes: I’ve always been a casual ice cream enjoyer, but in more recent years I’ve been traveling a lot for work through Italy, Canada and the US, where the options are endless. Core ice cream memories include Hokkaido milk Cremia soft serve in Kyoto, lavender ice cream at Sundaes and Cones in New York, Stracchino Fig gelato at Gelupo in London, and Guinness Bread ice cream at Cafe Cecilia, also in London. Each of these experiences has really driven my obsession and desire to launch something myself.
What first prompted the idea for your ice cream venture?
I’ve spent the past decade in fashion buying, which involves a lot of travel. I was spending a lot of time in Italy and North America, where all the best ice cream is, then coming back to London and not really finding what I wanted here. I got thinking about how you can combine those two very different regional approaches to ice cream—the indulgent, swirl and chunk-packed American side and then the artisanal, sophisticated side from Italian gelato. I bought a second-hand ice cream machine and started making it at home, realized the creative outlet it could be and how much I enjoyed it and went from there.
What are some challenges you’ve encountered in developing your product?
There’s a lot of food science to learn in order to make the best gelato. And there’s a lot of space needed—I now have four freezers in our one-bed flat where I do a lot of menu development.
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What have been some of your favorite contexts to create flavors for?
The three flavors we created for a dinner celebrating the launch of Chopova Lowena’s fragrances. Emma Laura sent us their press deck and had done such an incredible job of building a world around each of the fragrances, it was a really fun brief to work to. The flavors were strawberry, Bulgarian rose pink peppercorn, Madagascan vanilla with a bergamot marmalade swirl, and pear and ginger.
What’s your favorite classic ice cream flavor? And what’s your favorite flavor that you’ve created?
Mint choc chip—the really artificial version you get from ice cream vans. My favorite that we’ve made is probably milk tea with a cinnamon butter crunch.
Where can people sample your ice cream?
We’ve got our pop-up at Twos (75a Regent Studios, E8) every Saturday through summer. Twos is a beautifully curated store, specializing in vintage designer, hidden at the bottom of Broadway Market. Our friend Josh, its founder, has done an incredible job of building out what we feel is one of the best retail experiences in London—Josh’s hospitality is second to none and the store feels very community-driven, so serves as a perfect place for us to scoop from.
Larissa Stange, founder of &chill
Vogue: What first prompted the idea for your ice cream venture? Also, what were you doing before you started it?
It started with friends and family constantly telling me how good it was and joking that I should turn it into a business. At the time, I was working in fashion buying—which I loved and was fully invested in—so it never felt like a realistic career change. But then my partner got me a gelato training course for my birthday, and I thought, why not? It started as a side hustle—which I barely had time for thanks to my 9-to-5, but with the fashion industry being so volatile lately, especially during the recession, I decided to switch paths and give ice cream my full focus.
How would you describe your ice cream?
The texture is really smooth and rich—proper gelato-style—but still with a bit of chew or bite if the flavor calls for it. I like layering things, so there s often something crunchy or gooey or unexpected mixed in. Texture is a big thing for me, which is why I always recommend trying the ice cream sandwiches—they’re a full-on texture party. My only real reference point when creating something is: will people keep thinking about it after they’ve had it?
Why do you think ice cream is so hot right now?
There have been a few ice cream “moments” that really put it on the map for the fashion crowd—like Folderol in Paris becoming the place to be during fashion week, and The Dreamery in London having that same vibe. Anya Hindmarch’s ice cream project was another one, and then there’s Dua Lipa talking about her olive oil ice cream obsession. Suddenly it felt like ice cream wasn’t just food, it was a thing.
What are some things that you’ve learned in the course of founding and launching your ice cream business?
That ice cream is probably one of the hardest food businesses to launch. It’s super seasonal, and frozen logistics are an absolute nightmare—but if you can get it right, it’s also one of the most rewarding.
What’s the most left-field flavor you conjured up?
Probably the Guinness-Marmite-Caramel. That combo sounds mental but really works. I also did a sweetcorn caramel flavor last year—it felt super novel at the time, but I’ve been seeing it pop up more lately, so maybe less left-field now!
Where can people sample your ice cream?
We’ve got our little shop at Netil Market open Thursday to Sunday—serving scoops, gelato sandwiches, and sundaes. The menu changes monthly, so there’s always something new to try alongside customer faves. We’re also launching “Scoop Chill” with The Hoxton, Southwark from July 1—a summer gelato takeover where you can get scoops and cocktails every weekday afternoon. You can also find us at local London grocers like De Beauvoir Deli, Harvest, and EAT 17, with a few more stockists in the pipeline.