Summer is here and tanning is back with a vengeance. Across TikTok, bronzed skin has become the aesthetic signifier of the season for Gen Z, with #Tanning amassing over 705,000 posts and counting. But not everybody is chasing their glow the traditional way.
“Sunmock? Sun-mulacra? Hypersun? SPF: Sun Projection Factor?” wrote beauty critic Jessica Defino, highlighting the wave of influencers currently creating content on how to fake tan safely. She links to influencer Erin Duganjurcak, who coined “bronzer + blush = safe tan lines” in an Instagram post that now has nearly 14,000 likes. Meanwhile, TikToker @GradyGirlRay went viral after sharing her hack for hard-to-reach areas: using a paint roller to apply tanning mousse to her back — no mitt or partner needed. The video has over 4.6 million views and fans have dubbed it a “stroke of brilliance” for streak-free coverage. On the other hand, unorthodox tanning routines from influencers like Megan Foster and Rachel Mossy (complete with screenshots from apps notifying them that the UV is a high nine, prompting outdoor sessions timed for peak pigment) are also surfacing, drawing criticism.
“This is so harmful for you,” wrote one concerned user. “Can’t believe we’re still promoting tanning in 2025,” wrote another. Their sentiment reflects a broader cultural shift: sun-induced tanning has gone from a sought-after beauty norm to something increasingly viewed with caution — if not outright fear.
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So why does having a tan remain the ultimate summer aesthetic? “Trends are cyclical and the natural response to the resurgence of the ’90s aesthetic — which in its essence is simple, clean and carefree — is to follow with skin that looks like you’ve been spending ample time outside, enjoying life,” says freelance beauty journalist Madeleine Spencer. “A tan says the opposite of high maintenance — even if getting it naturally or via a bottle is hard work in reality — because it speaks of freedom and fun, and suggests a little devil-may-care attitude.”
That fantasy of the golden glow is tied up in deep-rooted cultural associations that still haven’t gone away. “The current obsession with ‘clean girl’ glowy skin has quietly evolved into a desire for that golden, sun-kissed tan — something still associated with looking healthy, rich or ‘effortlessly hot’,” agrees Dr Shereene Idriss, board-certified dermatologist and founder of New York’s Idriss Dermatology and science-backed skincare line Dr Idriss.
But while the aesthetic appeal of tanned skin persists, the science tells a different story. “There is no such thing as a ‘healthy tan’,” Idriss cautions. “A tan is your body’s SOS signal — proof that your skin has been damaged. That ‘glow’ is literally the result of UV-induced trauma to your skin cells. We’re up against a tsunami of misinformation, where aesthetic goals are prioritised over science.”
This wave of tanning worship arrives in parallel with the rise in sun-safety awareness. Even as bronzed beauty becomes more visible online, anxiety around UV damage isn’t disappearing — in fact, it’s increasing. According to a 2024 report by research firm The Benchmarking Company, 71 per cent of skincare consumers cite sun exposure as their top ageing concern, while Google searches for “best anti-ageing sunscreen” and “UV damage prevention” have more than doubled over the past two years, reflecting a growing awareness of the long-term effects of sun exposure on skin health and appearance.
“As a practising dermatologist and former skin cancer researcher, educating my patients on the dangers of UV exposure and the importance of knowing what you’re putting on your skin is a top priority for me,” says Dr Dennis Gross of his eponymous dermatologist-grade skincare brand. “I always remind my patients they don’t need to sacrifice their skin’s health to achieve a sun-kissed glow. There are many options that can deliver a beautiful, bronzed look without the damage. The key is looking for products that have been thoroughly tested for both safety and efficacy.”
For brands, it’s precisely this tension that is driving innovation across both the SPF and self-tanning categories, racing to offer products that bridge desire and protection. For example, Allies of Skin recently launched their Sunless Tan SPF 50, a clever one-and-done for daytime protection with a developing fake tan. Meanwhile, U Beauty’s multimodal sheer SPF acts as a primer, skincare and UV shield in one.
Skincare-forward self-tanners, tinted mineral sunscreens, chronobiology-driven SPFs and hybrid formulas that blur the lines between makeup, moisturiser, bronzed skin and UV defence are gaining ground — allowing consumers to have it both ways and for brands to mobilise in a nascent category.
SPF’s bronzed play
Historically, SPF was seen as a nice-to-have or an unwelcome, greasy addition to one’s skincare routine. For years, it was known more for what it got wrong than what it protected: pore-clogging formulas, sticky finishes, breakouts, white casts that disrupted makeup, and a generally unpleasant user experience. Many consumers resented the way it made them look pale or patchy, often describing it as the step that made them feel worse (not better) about their skin.
But things are changing. A new generation of SPF products is redefining both protection and presentation. Brands are launching hybrid formulas that double up as skin tints, bronzing drops and glow-enhancing bases. This summer has seen a flurry of launches that reflect this shift. Merit’s The Uniform, a mineral SPF 45 available in 15 shades, offers sheer, velvet-finish coverage that smooths skin while providing glowy, high-level sun protection. Supergoop!’s Protec(tint), a zinc-based daily SPF 50, delivers a dewy, buildable tint that enhances skin tone while defending it.
Today, SPFs come in shimmery gel sticks and whipped mousses as brands seek to make the category more sexy and less medicinal. But product efficacy matters most.
This month, Idriss launched Major Fade Disco Block SPF 50, a next-generation chemical sunscreen powered by hexylresorcinol — a skin-brightening compound comparable to 2 per cent hydroquinone and clinically proven to help fade discolouration. “The products winning right now aren’t traditional sunscreens — they’re tinted moisturisers or setting sprays like One/Size that just happen to contain SPF,” she explains. Instead of relying on bronzers that offer zero sun defence, it mimics the post-vacation glow while shielding the skin. The Major Fade Disco Block formula includes a ceramide complex to reinforce the skin barrier, antioxidant-rich amla fruit extract to help defend against free radicals, and a sheer lavender tint that blends seamlessly into all skin tones for a luminous, lit-from-within finish.
Others, like Katey Mandy, founder of New Zealand-based Raaie, have adopted a different approach to SPF protection. “Our relationship with the sun is complicated,” she says. “In recent years, it’s been demonised, but some sun exposure is essential for our health: it triggers serotonin production, regulates melatonin for sleep (which also affects skin repair) and even supports gut health. The key is balance, timing and the right kind of protection.”
Raaie’s holistic approach is rooted in chronobiology, which is the science of how skin behaviour shifts throughout the day. “We know the skin is in protection mode in the morning, and using that window to deliver suncare that works with the sun, not against it,” she explains. “It’s not about hiding from the light or worshipping it, it’s about respecting it.”
In early parts of the day, skin cells are more equipped to defend themselves, with active repair mechanisms and heightened melanin production. Raaie harnesses this biological rhythm to support a more nuanced view of tanning: one that doesn’t rely on total avoidance or reckless exposure, but encourages mindful, incremental sun interaction with protective measures during these times when the body is better able to tolerate moderate, protected exposure.
By advocating smart sun habits — such as seeking shade during peak UV hours and gradual, SPF-protected exposure — Raaie promotes a safer path to developing colour. The brand’s Sun Milk Drops SPF are formulated with native New Zealand plants like kānuka, blackcurrant and sauvignon blanc grape seed, which have evolved to survive extreme UV exposure in the Southern Hemisphere. “Anyone who’s ever been to New Zealand knows how fierce the sun is — the burn time is 12 minutes. We have some of the highest UV levels on earth, and as a result, our native flora has evolved extraordinary survival mechanisms,” Mandy explains.
Self-tan’s makeover
Self-tanners have been traditionally positioned as the safer alternative to sunbathing, offering the promise of bronzed skin without the UV damage. But while they mitigate health risks, they introduce a set of cosmetic challenges. Early formulas were notorious for their unpleasant smell, patchy application, unnatural orange undertones, and the dreaded streaks and stains left behind on clothes or bed sheets. As a result, many consumers viewed bottled solutions as a last resort rather than a true replacement. And the golden glow from the beach or poolside still held more cultural cachet than anything that came from a tube.
That perception is now shifting, as a skincare-first philosophy transforms the self-tanning game with launches such as Coco Eve’s Express Tanning Antioxidant Mousse, Glow Recipe’s Watermelon Glow Dew Shield SPF, Merit’s The Uniform and Supergoop!’s Glowscreen Soft-Radiance Drops — all designed to deliver a believable, radiant glow while nourishing the skin.
James Read, founder of Self Glow by James Read, sees this as the category’s most exciting evolution. “The biggest shift has been towards skincare-first formulations, which are completely redefining how consumers experience sunless tanning. No longer is it just about achieving a bronze glow; today’s best products begin with skin health and nourishment, with the tan becoming a seamless, often luxurious side effect.”
This next wave of self-tanners blends science-backed skincare with subtle colour, elevating the category into something more akin to treatment than cosmetic camouflage. “We’re seeing a surge in formulas incorporating biotech-derived actives, fermented botanicals and sustainably sourced ingredients,” Read explains. His latest launch, the Golden Nights Sleep Repair Tanning Drops, embodies this approach. “It’s formulated with a regenerative peptide and hydration complex — including sharohyal matrix and centella reverse — to destress your skin while you sleep. The 4D hyaluronic acid locks in moisture and helps skin rest overnight,” he says, noting that it also provides a beautiful, realistic-looking tan.
Equally important is the feel of these products. “Tanning is becoming part of a beauty ritual,” Read adds. “These aren’t just functional products, they’re designed to feel indulgent, with silky textures, natural skin tints and spa-like applications that make people look forward to using them.”
Gross, whose Alpha Beta Glow Pads have accumulated a cult following, agrees that experience is everything. “When I was formulating our wipes, my mindset was: people will only use a product regularly if they love the experience,” he says. “So we made them odourless, mess-free and completely transfer-proof. Just swipe and glow — no rinsing, no fuss.” The formula also includes actives that even skin tone and improve texture, making it as much about skin health as it is about colour.
Another reason natural tans have long held cultural superiority over bottled ones is their perceived longevity. While a beach-earned glow can linger for weeks, many self-tanners fade unevenly within just days. This is also starting to change. Brands like Dolce Glow and Loving Tan now offer mousses that promise rich, streak-free colour lasting up to 10 days, while Tan-Luxe’s Airbrush 360 Mist delivers a salon-quality finish with pro-level durability. But some of the most exciting breakthroughs come from biotech: researchers at Massachusetts General and Harvard have developed topical SIK-inhibitor compounds that mimic UV-induced tanning by stimulating melanin production in the skin, without any sun exposure. Pre-clinical results show durable, natural-looking pigmentation lasting about a week, and next steps include possible formulation into creams or lotions that could eventually hit the market.
A new frontier in sunless tanning is the rise of ingestible beauty thanks to brands like The Nue Co, Hush Hush and Vitabiotics. These pills, powders and drinkable formulas typically include ingredients like carotene, lycopene and antioxidant-rich botanicals such as pomegranate or green tea extract, which are aimed at enhancing natural pigmentation. Still, some dermatologists remain sceptical, citing limited clinical research, the lack of FDA approval and potentially harmful side effects like the rise in lung cancer.
Whether it’s through tanning drops that double as overnight repair serums, or wipes that exfoliate and bronze in one step, today’s self-tanning innovations are moving far beyond the merely functional to a product future where bronzed skin doesn’t compromise on skin health. Gen Z consumers are no longer willing to choose between glow and health — they expect both, and brands will have to meet this heightened demand to earn their buy-in.
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