When it comes to anti-aging skincare formulas, growth factor serums are perhaps the most mysterious of the bunch. These rejuvenating formulas are praised for improving skin hydration and elasticity, smoothing skin texture, fading hyperpigmentation, and even firming up sagging, aging skin, so it’s no surprise that they’re bestsellers—but what actually are growth factors?
Growth factors are naturally occurring proteins that are produced by your body’s cells, and they’re essential to healthy skin. “They act as signaling molecules that communicate with skin cells to stimulate collagen production, promote cell turnover, enhance wound healing, and improve overall skin tone and texture,” explains double-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon Eunice Park, MD.
Vogue’s Favorite Growth Factor Serums
Unfortunately, our natural production of growth factors declines as we get older, says board-certified internist and longevity expert Amanda Kahn, MD. “This contributes to the thinning, wrinkled, less firm, less elastic, and sagging skin we see with age,” she explains. By replenishing your skin’s reserves of these powerhouse proteins, a good growth factor serum can help the skin function at its best, says board-certified facial plastic surgeon Sean Alemi, MD, allowing skin cells to react and repair at their full capacity. That translates into your skin looking its best, too. “They can help with cell turnover and collagen production that can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles,” says double-board-certified dermatologist Lauren Moy, MD.
Faster cellular turnover and increased collagen production translate into firmer, smoother, glowing skin that looks clear, fresh, and even—you know, everything on your wish list from a beauty product. What’s especially valuable about growth factor serums is that they tend to be non-irritating, making them ideal for all skin types, even sensitive. Growth factors work slowly to transform your skin, unlike harsher, faster-acting actives like exfoliating acids and retinoids.
With all these benefits, growth factor serums may come across as an obvious routine must-have, but keep reading before you invest: Not all anti-aging skin-care formulas in this category are created equally. Where things get tricky is the ingredient sourcing—for example, human growth factors are found in some of these rejuvenating serums. (Some may find this ingredient compelling, while others could find it disconcerting.) With the help of our experts, we’re breaking down exactly what these actives are, what you should look for in an effective product, and a few of our favorite formulas to add to your cart.
In This Story:
- What types of growth factors are there?
- Do growth factor serums really work?
- Who should use growth factors?
- Are growth factors better than retinol?
- Meet the Experts
Best Overall: SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum
- Why We Love It: “This is considered the pioneer and gold standard of growth factor serums, as one of the longest on the market and the best researched,” Dr. Kahn says. The formula contains human fibroblast conditioned media, which is naturally rich in growth factors and other cellular material that your own growth factors need to thrive, as well as peptides, microalgae, and more marine extracts that work to firm and smooth skin. The unique treatment is actually two serums in one, housed in a dual-chamber bottle that pumps out the perfect blended dose. It’s silky, absorbs beautifully, and sits well under other products (even makeup), making it easy to incorporate into your routine.
- Type of Growth fFctor: Human fibroblast conditioned media
- Key Ingredients: Peptides, algae extracts
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| A little of this potent formula goes a long way | Dual-chamber pump mechanism can dispense more of one serum than another |
| Features human-derived growth factors for maximum biocompatibility |
Best Value: The Ordinary GF 15% Solution
- Why We Love It: This affordable serum contains synthetic versions of epidermal, transforming, and insulin-like growth factors (EGF, TGF, and IGF, respectively) made of peptides to help renew skin. “These plant-derived, EGF-, IGF-, and TGF-mimicking peptides are designed to support collagen signaling, smooth fine lines, and improve skin firmness and texture,” explains Dr. Kahn, The water-like consistency absorbs quickly, allowing the actives to get to work supporting skin’s structure and density. While you shouldn’t expect miracles from any growth factor serum, we will note that we’re impressed by the results offered from this one—the ingredient list here overlaps a lot with some of the pricier serums in this article, but at a fraction of the cost.
- Type of Growth Factor: Peptides mimicking EGF, TGF, and IGF
- Key Ingredients: Peptides mimicking EGF, TGF, and IGF
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Most budget-friendly formula of its kind | May irritate sensitive skin |
| Simple and effective ingredient list |
Best for Wrinkles: Dr. Diamond’s Metacine Instafacial Plasma
- Why We Love It: This cult-favorite formula was inspired by the founder’s signature in-office facial, which uses a combination of lasers, microneedling, and PRP to dramatically transform skin—hence the slightly spooky red serum, which is packed with five bio-engineered growth factors, peptides, and skin hydrators to leave you glowing. Dr. Kahn cites this as a personal favorite, noting that it “supports collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production, helping improve skin firmness, radiance, and overall vitality with consistent use.” Though this formula is safe (and fabulous) to slather on post-procedure, you don’t need to get a pro treatment to see results. It’s clinically proven to improve wrinkles, even deep forehead lines.
- Type of Growth Factor: Synthetic growth factors (peptides)
- Key Ingredients: Anti-aging peptides, sodium hyaluronate
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Rapidly works to brighten and smooth skin | Features a (natural) lingering fragrance that some describe as cloying |
| Gentle formula can be used post-procedure to enhance anti-aging results |
Best for Sagging Skin: Allies of Skin Multi Peptides GF Advanced Lifting Serum
- Why We Love It: Skin laxity is one of the most challenging concerns to address with a topical treatment, but this firming serum from Allies of Skin makes it simple. “This formula combines three percent growth factors and nine percent peptides, making it a powerhouse combination of science-backed ingredients to target collagen production,” says Dr. Alemi. This one-two punch of hardworking ingredients corrects sagging skin all over the face, including drooping brows, downturned corners of the mouth, and more, boosting resilience as well as skin hydration levels.
- Type of Growth Factor: Synthetic EGF (peptides)
- Key Ingredients: Peptides, phospholipids, centella asiatica
- Size: 1.7 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Helps improve stubborn areas of sagging skin | Strong smell may be off-putting |
| Gentle and non-irritating formula |
Best Human-Derived: Neocutis Bio Serum Firm
- Why We Love It: According to Dr. Alemi, this serum was one of the first of its kind on the market, using human-derived growth factors as well as peptides to address aging skin. The active on the ingredient label is “cutaneous lysate,” which the brand refers to as PSP, or processed skin cell proteins, which are sourced from cultured fetal skin cells. “The serum is the line s most potent formulation of growth factors,” adds Dr. Alemi. In addition to growth factors and proteins, the product features amino acids, sodium hyaluronate, and acetyl glucosamine to help smooth, hydrate, and brighten.
- Type of Growth Factor: Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF)
- Key Ingredients: Peptides, amino acids, sodium hyaluronate, acetyl glucosamine
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Makes skin look tauter and more radiant with less noticeable fine lines | Can pill under makeup, making it best for evening use |
| Fragrance- and oil-free formula |
Best for Uneven Texture Tone: Angela Caglia Cell Forté Serum With BIOMSC
- Why We Love It: Because it’s formulated with human conditioned media sourced from mesenchymal stem cells, this serum is absolutely loaded with growth factors, exosomes, and cytokines. According to Dr. Kahn, these ingredients “signal skin renewal and visibly improve elasticity, tone, and aging skin quality.” It also helps dry skin look plumper using a thirst-quenching combination of hyaluronic acid and snow mushroom extract, the latter of which is proven to be 10 times as hydrating as the former.
- Type of Growth Factor: Human mesenchymal stem cell conditioned media
- Key Ingredients: Human mesenchymal stem cell conditioned media, snow mushroom extract, hyaluronic acid
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Packed with human-derived, skin-supporting nutrients | Large molecules in formula have best chance of penetrating the skin when serum is applied after dermarolling |
| Gentle, hydrating formula safe for all skin types |
Best Korean: Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ BIO Lifting-sil Essence
- Why We Love It: The star of this formula is NAD+; though not technically a growth factor, it’s a peptide that’s key to your body’s ability to metabolize cellular energy (ATP) and function at its peak. But that’s not the only one—and there’s actually a whopping total of 50 different peptides in this “dense peptide complex to support cellular energy, boost elasticity, and improve the appearance of fine lines and skin laxity,” says Dr. Kahn.
- Editor Experience: “When I’m testing a new-to-me formula, product compatibility is one of the most important aspects—and this K-beauty treatment seamlessly paired with other steps of my routine. Despite the unexpected texture, which is uniquely stretchy and a bit slimy, the essence absorbs quickly to infuse dry skin with tons of hydration and peptides. It really boosts skin’s glow ahead of serum and moisturizer.” —Emily Orofino, contributor
- Type of Growth Factor: NAD+
- Key Ingredients: Peptides, glutathione
- Size: 4.23 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Active ingredient-packed formula is very gentle on skin | Snail mucin-like texture may be off-putting to some |
| Absorbs quickly and effectively without stickiness or residue |
Best for Mature Skin: PCA SKIN Pro-Max Age Renewal Advanced Antiaging Serum
- Why We Love It: This formula has a corset-like effect on skin, which you’ll notice as soon as you apply it—a blend of biopolymers and kangaroo paw flower extract instantly tightens things up to the point that you can feel it happening on your face. Over time, though, is when the real magic happens. “This formula boasts micro growth factor technology, which allows the growth factors to penetrate deeper into the skin,” explains Dr. Alemi. (Up to 10 times deeper, by the way.) With regular use, you’ll see and feel your skin firming up.
- Type of growth factor: Synthetic growth factors (peptides)
- Key Ingredients: Biopolymers, kangaroo paw flower extract
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Creates an instant skin-tightening effect while working to firm skin over time | Opaque inner chamber makes it hard to know when you’re running out of product |
Best for Sensitive Skin: Epi.Logic Master Plan Collagen Renew Growth Factor Serum
- Why We Love It: A little of this powerful serum goes a long way—seriously, you can get a full face of application with just a tiny pump—to revitalize even the most sensitive of complexions, transforming it without any irritation. “This serum touts human stem cell derived growth factors, which are readily recognized by the body and more closely resemble our own skin s growth factors,” says Dr. Alemi, as well as peptides that function similarly to growth factors, and ultra-hydrating snow mushroom. Vogue editor Kiana Murden swears by this formula, sharing that it leaves her skin looking plumper, bouncier, and dewier than ever.
- Editor’s Experience: “Someone somewhere is tired of hearing me wax on about Epi.logic’s Master Plan serum. Over the last year or so, it’s become a skin-care staple of mine for its refreshingly hydrating texture and skin barrier-boosting composition. The brand’s signature Cell Service complex of growth factors and peptides essentially boosts skin’s collagen and elastin production, while promoting firmer, bouncier skin. It’s also incredibly gentle (thanks, in part, to hyaluronic acid, sea kelp bio ferment, and snow mushroom); so much so, I relied on it to heal my skin following my last MOXI treatment.” —Kiana Murden, beauty editor, shopping
- Type of Growth Factor: Human stem cell conditioned media
- Key Ingredients: Snow mushroom extract, peptides
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Firms and hydrates while fading hyperpigmentation | One of the priciest options on our list |
| A little goes a long way |
Best for Crow’s Feet: iS Clinical Youth Eye Complex
- Why We Love It: This is a rare formula in this category specifically designed for the super delicate eye area. To help fade fine lines and wrinkles, the formula features firming growth factor alternative copper tripeptide, “a very well-studied ingredient and has demonstrated multiple benefits, including accelerated collagen production,” notes Dr. Alemi. For even more defense against tired-looking eyes, the treatment also contains a neuropeptide to help control expression lines around the eye, and marine bacteria ferment to help quell puffiness.
- Type of Growth Factor: Synthetic growth factors (copper peptides)
- Key Ingredients: Acetyl octapeptide, pseudoalteromonas ferment extract
- Size: 0.5 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Helps firm and smooth fine lines and mild laxity | Packaging doesn’t effectively dispense product down to the last drop |
| Very lightweight and layers well with makeup |
Best Clean: Bioeffect EGF Serum
- Why We Love It: This vegan EGF serum boasts just seven ingredients, atypical for such a hardworking formula. “The barley-derived EGF is sustainably grown in inert volcanic pumice using geothermal energy and pure Icelandic water enriched with nutrients,” says Dr. Alemi. For added skin benefits, the product contains skin-replenishing hyaluronic acid and glycerin. Numerous Vogue editors cite the Bioeffect EGF Serum as a regimen staple and once you try it, you’re likely to do the same.
- Editor’s Experience: “I was impressed that they found a vegan way to create [growth factors]. At that time, people could get a little creeped when they found out what their non-vegan growth factor creams were made from. This bottle is small enough to fit in a carry-on and a few drops straight on my skin in the morning cover my entire face (and never pills under makeup).” —Arden Fanning Andrews, beauty editor-at-large
- Type of Growth Factor: Synthetic EGF (peptides)
- Key Ingredients: Glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, Icelandic water
- Size: 0.5 fl. oz.
| Love It | Leave It |
|---|---|
| Simple, straightforward formula powerfully promotes collagen production and skin hydration without irritation | Small amount of product for the price |
Everything You Need to Know
What types of growth factors are there?
There are many types of growth factors in the human body, but there are a select few that are relevant to skin health. The most well-known is epidermal growth factor, or EGF. “EGF helps with healing, cell survival and growth, and cell migration,” Dr. Moy says. The signals sent by EGF help repair cellular damage while working to increase levels of collagen and elastin. Fibroblast growth factor, or FGF, is key to skin structure as it activates your skin’s fibroblasts—the cells that produce collagen and elastin. “Certain forms, like FGF-2 or basic FGF, have been shown to aid in tissue repair and improve healing outcomes after dermatologic procedures,” Dr. Park adds. IGF (insulin-like growth factor) is known to promote tissue repair, and TGF (transforming growth factor) simultaneously promotes collagen synthesis while helping to regulate inflammation.
What makes growth factor serums complex is that you may not actually see these acronyms on product packaging even if a product is called a “growth factor serum.” A common ingredient category you’ll see instead is peptides. “Many products feature biologically active peptides that mimic growth factor effects but are not true growth factors,” Dr. Kahn explains. Peptides are made up of amino acids—the building blocks of protein—and can also act as chemical messengers or as precursors for collagen and elastin, Dr. Moy says. Peptides often used as growth factor substitutes include copper peptides (which promote firmer skin while fighting inflammation), Matrixyl (enhances collagen production), and acetyl hexapeptide-8 a.k.a. argireline, sometimes referred to as “Botox in a bottle” due to its wrinkle-smoothing properties.
Peptides aren’t the only type of ingredient used in lieu of growth factors, either. There’s also human conditioned media—which is exactly what it sounds like, material that has been cultivated in a lab using human-derived cells (usually fibroblasts or stem cells). According to Dr. Park, human conditioned media contain a blend of growth factors, cytokines, and other beneficial proteins that can support skin renewal—“a ‘soup’ of nutrient-rich fluid,” Dr. Kahn adds. Human conditioned media, peptides, and growth factors (real or synthetic) all work synergistically, so feel free to experiment with a formula that contains a hearty blend of these ingredients.
Do growth factor serums really work?
Growth factor serums can work, but their efficacy depends on a handful of aspects, including the ingredient source (Dr. Moy notes that you can find human growth factors, synthetic alternatives, and even growth factors sourced from plants or snails), formulation stability, and delivery system.
“Products must be stabilized and formulated in a way that allows these large protein molecules to remain active and penetrate the skin barrier,” Dr. Park explains. For this reason, most people see the best results from using a growth factor serum after a professional treatment like laser or microneedling, when skin channels are open and ready to receive these rejuvenating actives. They’re also a valuable part of a tretinoin skincare routine.
Regardless, you’ll need to be patient: Even if you’re using the best growth factor serum on the market, results build with time. And, of course, don’t skip other rejuvenating and preventative products, like vitamin C serums and sunscreen—as your growth factor serum works to repair existing damage, you’ll want to avoid incurring more!
Who should use growth factors?
Most people and skin types can use a growth factor serum, but it’s especially a good idea to start if you’re noticing early signs of aging skin, have sensitive skin, a compromised skin barrier, or are looking for something to use after a professional treatment. “Many growth factor serums are designed to be non-irritating compared to stronger ingredients like retinoids and provide gentle regenerative support,” Dr. Park says. However, if you’re pregnant, breastfeeding, have an active skin infection, or skin cancer, you should avoid growth factor serums, just out of an abundance of caution. Growth factors are biologically active and many active ingredients aren’t tested for compatibility with pregnancy; considering they promote cell signaling and proliferation, there is a risk that growth factors could increase abnormal or uncontrolled cell growth.
Are growth factors better than retinol?
Neither of these ingredients are better than the other. “Retinols and growth factors are both great, and work via different mechanisms—they’re both valuable and I like alternating between them” Dr. Moy says. Remember, vitamin A actively works to speed up cellular turnover and boosts collagen production, but growth factors accelerate turnover by telling your skin cells to repair themselves. The former can work reasonably quickly, but can irritate skin, while the latter is gentle and takes more time to deliver visible results. “Together, they can be a powerful duo: retinol for resurfacing, and growth factors for rebuilding and repair,” Dr. Park suggests.
How We Tested
When we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue s vast network of experts—from board-certified dermatologists to celebrity estheticians—to gain professional acumen on the industry s standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.
As it relates to growth factor serums, we selected the best based on the following characteristics: ingredient source, type of growth factors, texture, packaging, finish, and the skin-care concerns they address. To do this, we paired our own personal tests of each formula with expert guidance and reviewer insights to determine which we would recommend to you.
Meet the Experts
- Eunice Park, MD is a double-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and the founder of AIREM in New York.
- Amanda Kahn, MD is a board-certified internist and longevity expert in New York.
- Lauren Moy, MD is a double-board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon in Beverly Hills.
- Sean Alemi, MD is a board-certified facial plastic surgeon in New York.
