Last night at Harlem’s iconic Apollo Theater, Harlem Fashion Row—the organization founded by Brandice Daniel, devoted to uplifting and supporting Black and Latinx talent in fashion—kicked off New York Fashion Week with its 16th annual style awards and runway show. The event was star-studded: On stage, awards were collected by rapper A$AP Rocky, singer Kelly Rowland, stylists Wayman + Micah, photographer Johnny Nuñez, editor Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, and designer Stella Jean. Nicole Benefield Portfolio, A. Potts, and Megan Renee all showed new collections on the catwalk, too.
The event—which counted The Walt Disney Company, LVMH, and AT&T, among others, as sponsors—tied into the 50th anniversary of hip-hop, and aimed to celebrate the Black creatives who are shaping the current fashion landscape with their unique work. “We’re honoring distinguished innovators and trailblazers who have shaped the fashion landscape, but that don’t often get recognized enough,” said Daniel. “Many of the artists and designers we celebrate have overcome considerable obstacles, particularly those of systematic and racial barriers that persist in the fashion industry.”
The first accolade of the night went to Destiny’s Child’s Rowland, who received the Fashion Icon award. The star spoke of developing her style early-on in the famous girl group. “We were four very country girls from Texas, so [designers] were reluctant to dress us,” said Rowland. “Tina [Knowles] took matters into her own hands and dressed us, and I learned then what it was like to start a trend…we start the trends; we make what’s cool cool. Fashion should be grateful for us.”
Next up was fashion editor Karefa-Johnson, who received the Editor of the Year award. “I wasn’t always sure I’d ever stand on a stage like this,” said Johnson, who has styled many covers and editorials for Vogue. “Black women spend so much time thinking we aren’t doing enough, knowing we’ll have to work twice as hard and get half as much. The world isn’t always set up for our success, so it’s impossible to express my gratitude for not only having this seat at the table, but for being honored for the work that I do.” Powerhouse stylists Wayman + Micah were also recognized for their impressive roster of red carpet clients (among them Tessa Thompson, Jodie Turner-Smith, and Danielle Deadwyler). “We started our career off of [creating] vision boards here in Harlem, about 10 years ago,” said Wayman. “Within that same year, we started working with the people on our vision boards. Manifestation is real.”
Celebrity photographer Johnny Nuñez—who has snapped everyone from Beyoncé to Drake—was recognized for his contribution to the fashion and hip-hop worlds with the Trailblazer Award, while Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean received Designer of the Year for her whimsical, colorful creations. Lastly, rapper A$AP Rocky collected the Virgil Abloh Award presented by LVMH, and he spoke of his personal relationship with the late designer. “Virgil discovered us, [the A$AP Mob crew], before I got my record deal. Virgil went on to design my first album cover and first tour.”
Following the awards gala came the runway show. Brooklyn’s own Nicole Benefield showed burnt-orange mesh tanks and cool cargos for him, and geometric-print dresses and luxe leather ponchos for her. “A lot of my silhouettes are based off of classic pieces, taking those elements and doing something with that,” she said.
Megan Renee Smith, who is based in Los Angeles, debuted a new assortment focused on subverting menswear tailoring. The tuxedo jackets were cropped and paired with asymmetrical ruffled skirts, and button-down pants and shirts were designed in silky gold materials that slinked down the runway. “I hate this idea that women are supposed to be a certain thing—feminine, soft, and delicate—and I like to reject that idea,” said Smith. “I like strong pieces and strong shapes.”
Aaron Potts of A. Potts, meanwhile, zeroed in on sportswear. His casual, everyday pieces incorporated elevated details—such as tees with fringed hemlines, or scuba-style dresses in bright orange and pink. “There is romance, fantasy, and sense of drama [to my work,]” said Potts. “I like to capture those emotions and make it work for everyday use.”
As the evening concluded, the diverse array of talent and points-of-view in one room was very much felt. “This evening serves as a testament to the dismantling of barriers,” said Daniel, HFR’s founder, “and the ascent towards a more inclusive and empowering fashion industry.”
