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Weddings are big business in India, and the market is growing at an exponential rate. Yet, the potential for luxury — which extends far beyond the bridal trousseau — remains largely untapped.
After Covid lockdowns, wedding spending patterns have changed: destination weddings are no longer reserved for the very wealthy; there are new dress codes for brides; jewellery is becoming less traditional; there’s more expectation than ever on the mother of the bride when it comes to dressing; and men want a piece of the fashion action, too. Guests are giving coveted luxury items instead of traditional silverware as gifts, adding to the opportunity for brands.
Indian designers are having a mainstream moment, from dressing celebrities to appearances at Paris Couture Week. Could this be the start of an Indian wave of fashion?
“The Indian wedding and luxury fashion market is set for a boom, and everyone is in a celebratory mood,” said Sunil Sethi, chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), in a statement announcing the launch of a new two-day wedding fair, which took place at the Taj Palace in New Delhi on 5-6 August.
As bridal shopping kicks off for the upcoming wedding season (the peak of which runs from October to March), how can luxury brands take a bigger slice of the pie?
For affluent families in India, weddings span several days and often take place at destinations in both Europe and India, in resorts or historical locations. These celebrations involve multiple outfit changes, including jewellery and the exchange of numerous gifts.
Understanding the culture of Indian weddings is vital for international brands to tap into the potential of this market, says Parthip Thyagarajan, CEO of wedding planning website Wedding Sutra. “If you are not hosting a family wedding, then you are attending a family friend’s wedding. For many, all their special occasion shopping and holiday travel requirements centre around the wedding. They only shop or even travel around a wedding. I think international brands have not really been able to understand this.”
FDCI’s Sethi highlights the recession-proof nature of the wedding industry in India, making it lucrative not only for couturiers but also for ancillary businesses. A 2018 report by KPMG valued the Indian wedding market at $50 billion, and while there’s little official data available, experts agree that it has grown significantly since then.
“Bridal spending holds significant importance for luxury malls, serving as a crucial revenue driver,” says Pushpa Bector, senior executive director of DLF Retail, which owns malls DLF Emporio and The Chanakya in Delhi (home to brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Gucci and Hermès).
Bector notes that categories such as watches, branded jewellery and ready-to-wear items have experienced impressive growth rates (over 100 per cent) as it’s not only the bride who requires a wide range of outfits but the whole wedding party. Wedding Sutra’s Thyagarajan says that weddings can vary in size from intimate gatherings of 100 people to grand events of up to 10,000.
Beyond the shop floor
While many Indian designers have flagship stores in luxury malls, wedding shows — which take place throughout the year — play a significant role in driving business. This month, in addition to the new FDCI Wedding Weekend, long-running event Bridal Asia took place in Mumbai on 12-13 August, for example.
Traditionally, however, global luxury brands have shied away from wedding fairs. “Luxury brands are very particular about the company they keep [and] bridal shows in India, perhaps with a couple of exceptions, have not curated their events with a luxe vision,” says Wedding Sutra’s Thyagarajan.
That is changing. At FDCI Wedding Weekend earlier this month, Ajio Luxe, a multi-brand luxury e-commerce platform, participated by showcasing products suitable for weddings, trousseaus and honeymoons, such as Bottega Veneta clutches, shoes from Gianvito Rossi and Jimmy Choo, and ready-to-wear pieces from Bally and Stella McCartney. “Including luxury brands in the Wedding Weekend was a concerted move as we knew the buyer is open to use them for not just gifting but also in trousseau shopping,” says FDCI’s Sethi. “They are already a status symbol with years of history and artisanal strength; they just need to be participating in the right places for greater exposure.”
DLF Emporio’s Couture Weddings event, the 11th edition of which will take place in October, was “originally conceived as a showcase of our leading Indian couturiers”, says DLF Retail’s Bector. “But, in keeping with the modern Indian bride’s diverse tastes for her trousseau picks, it has now been expanded in scope to also include international brands, such as Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin, Louis Vuitton, Cartier and Gucci, among others,” she adds.
Luxury opportunities: Stylists and gifting
Vandana Mohan, founder of the Wedding Design Company, says brides and grooms now push boundaries, experimenting with attire for various wedding events. As a result, bridal styling is booming. “There has been a mind shift change in the attitude to spending. Bridal stylists have become the norm for most wealthy couples, and luxury brands could benefit from close relationships with these stylists,” says Mohan.
Nisha Kundnani, founder of Bridelan, a Mumbai-based boutique styling consultancy, has worked on over 120 weddings with her team of three stylists. She notes that more editorial stylists are entering the market, as more Indian fashion brands are focusing on the wedding and more international brands enter India. Wedding planner Mohan has seen an increase in brides looking for stylists to help them navigate the crowded market, and today wants to balance between Indian and international outfits. Taller Marmo, Ellie Saab, Cult Gaia and Zimmermann are among those gaining traction, according to Kundnani. “As bridal stylists, we are close to customers who don’t blink if they have to buy luxury products for their weddings or otherwise.”
Often stylists help with gifting items, too. “I have seen brides curate their bridal shower or their bridesmaid events with Jacquemus handbags, Hermès scarves and even Dior glasses for each one of their close friends. Curated luxury product gifting has always been a part of the Indian wedding experience,” says Kundnani.
Gifting is the biggest opportunity for luxury brands, says Divya Kapoor Gurwara, who started Bridal Asia in Delhi 24 years ago. Considered to be the first large-format wedding show in India, Bridal Asia now has editions in Delhi, Hyderabad and Mumbai. “Gifts exchanged during Indian weddings span across watches, bags and jewellery, crockery and household essentials. International brands play a key role in fulfilling these gifting needs.” Her show is one that Wedding Sutra’s Thyagarajan notes does have a luxe feel.
Working with traditional silhouettes
Wedding Sutra’s Thyagarajan believes that connecting with wedding professionals such as stylists, planners, and digital platforms can help luxury brands understand how they fit into Indian weddings through partnerships, collaborations and capsule collections. In particular, he sees potential for luxury footwear, bags and sunglasses brands.
Christian Louboutin, for example, has a bridal suite in its Mumbai store offering bespoke and personalisation services. This October, the brand will unveil its India Wedding Edit, a capsule of 12 women’s and six men’s shoe styles and two handbags in various metallic shades. Thyagarajan suggests luxury footwear brands could further tap the opportunity by creating limited-edition juttis (traditional North Indian footwear).
Menswear brands, including Canali and Giorgio Armani, have also introduced India-exclusive capsule collections, drawing inspiration from traditional silhouettes.
Today’s grooms spend as much time, attention and money on their looks as brides. Kunal Rawal started his label in 2006 after noticing a dearth of options for men in India. He agrees that there is room for international brands to work on other silhouettes and accessories. “With so much diversity, [India] feels like 14 countries in one — with different silhouettes, cultures, customs across the length and breadth of the nation.”
Rahul Mishra — whose Autumn 2023 bridal couture collection included cocktail dresses, long gowns and tuxedo-inspired suits, alongside the traditional sari, lehenga (ankle-length skirt) and kurta (a long collarless top) — echoes this sentiment. “As the Indian consumer is extremely versatile, there is a huge scope for Western brands to retail their primary collections in India. It is also key for them to offer a special or an additional curation of offerings that are better suited to the ethnicities and cultures within our subcontinent.”
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