Whether it’s slugging, snail mucin or the elusive ‘glass skin’, South Korea is the origin point of countless beauty trends that come to dominate TikTok feeds and beauty cabinets worldwide. Seoul, where recently I spent two weeks on a beauty treatment excursion, is particularly synonymous with highly advanced skincare, and while its reputation preceded it, reality hit before I even touched down. On my Korean Air flight, economy passengers were offered a cleanser and moisturiser set, something I’ve never encountered on a Western airline.
“Korea has taken what originated in the West — traditional aesthetics and skincare — and hybridised it with our own deep-rooted traditions in oriental medicine, which is, by nature, highly personalised,” says Areuke Spa CEO Grace Lee, which is owned by Troiareuke, a Korean dermocosmetic brand that builds customisable skincare routines and products based on each customer’s individual needs.
Korean beauty’s rapid rise 10 years ago eventually led to market saturation and consumer fatigue. Now, it’s enjoying a resurgence.
“In Western culture, there’s a deep emphasis on preserving tradition. In Korea, we’re faster to adapt and innovate,” says Andy Kim, CEO of Troiareuke. “After the Korean War, we had to rebuild everything from the ground up. That spirit of resilience drives our dynamism. We adopted global influences, refined them and evolved our own beauty systems, which is why Korean skincare and aesthetics are so creative today.”
Thanks to the viral power of TikTok and the global influence of K-pop, Korean skincare has become a cultural and commercial force. With over 41 billion views of #KoreanSkincare content, consumers have become captivated by the meticulous multi-step routines, unusual-yet-effective ingredients like mugwort and fermented rice extract, and an inside-out approach to skin health.
“Traditionally, we have thought of skincare as being a solution-based tool — something to treat acne, or redness, or pigmentation, or whatever your skin ‘concern’ is,” says Suzanne Scott, global associate beauty director of communications firm Seen Group. “What the Korean aesthetics market is teaching us is to consider skincare as a model of prevention, not correction.”
Now, with K-beauty’s second coming in full swing, the West is increasingly looking to the country as a blueprint for the future of beauty. Korea’s cosmetics exports reached $10.2 billion in 2024, a 20.6 per cent increase from the year prior, according to Korea’s Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, and while Korea has long been ahead of the curve, the future of beauty more widely is catching up to it. The rise of TikTok and algorithm-driven beauty ideals have accelerated the spread of trends like the ‘undetectable aesthetic’, setting a new global standard for how we expect to look — and what we’re willing to do to get there.
It’s why Western consumers are increasingly drawn to hyper-personalised, rejuvenation-first procedures that go far beyond topical skincare. From bespoke facials to exosome injectables, the appetite for clinically backed, tech-enhanced beauty that Korea has spearheaded is only growing. As Western clinics and brands race to catch up, the question is no longer whether Korea’s approach will become the norm, but how far the rest of the world is willing to go to keep pace. What can the West learn from Korea’s model, and what lines might it be unwise to cross?
Inside the Korean aesthetic machine
The West often looks to Korea for the what: snail mucin, BB cream, LED masks. But what truly sets Seoul apart is the how: a clinical philosophy built on precision, personalisation and a fusion of East and West.
On TikTok, viral videos (amassing over 600,000 views) show influencers such as Dr Ewoma and Amy Chang receiving as many as six or more procedures in a single day, and inspiring audiences to book their own “Korean glow up trips”. Curious to experience this firsthand, I booked into Forena Clinic, one of the city’s most respected aesthetic centres. Upon arrival, I was first ushered into a facial analysis chamber — a kind of futuristic photo booth that uses high-resolution imaging to diagnose everything from pore size to skin elasticity and UV damage. The experience was equal parts illuminating and humbling, as I quickly learnt my skin age was five years older than my own. My skin was also diagnosed with pigmentation, UV damage and early signs of volume loss. I mentioned my personal concerns to the consultant doctor — under-eye bags and increasingly pronounced smile lines — and was prescribed a multi-modal, five-hour treatment plan combining 10 separate procedures in just one sitting.
Many of these treatments are yet to be made available in the UK or the US, or are only just beginning to emerge. My regimen included the Onda 100,000 laser, a non-invasive contouring device that uses Coolwaves technology to reduce fat and tighten skin; Thermage FLX, a high-intensity radiofrequency treatment that lifts and smooths by stimulating collagen production; and Juvelook Volume 4cc, a hybrid filler that blends poly-d, l-lactic acid (PDLLA) with hyaluronic acid to treat deep nasolabial folds while promoting long-term collagen regeneration.
From there, the plan continued: Gold PTT laser for brightening and rejuvenation; Theraclear laser to calm inflammation; Pico Toning laser and ZoomPass’s Excel V laser for pigmentation and vascular issues; Ultracol 2cc; and a Rejuran skin booster targeting the delicate under-eye area. I also underwent Gentlemax Pro Plus Genesis laser, ASCE exosome infusion and Potenza RF microneedling, the latter of which uses ultra-fine needles to deliver radiofrequency energy deep into the skin while creating microchannels for enhanced exosome absorption and collagen remodelling.
“Every face deserves its own design,” says Dr Jihye Yeom, medical director of Forena Clinic. “South Korea is a beauty capital not simply because of advanced tools, but because of how we use them. Korean practitioners are trained to respect the individual face: skin thickness, muscle tone, fat volume and aesthetic goals vary widely from one person to another. This leads to more design-based medicine, where multiple elements are combined — soft energy treatments, targeted bio-injections and customised aftercare — to produce nuanced results.”
This is where Korea’s aesthetic approach diverges from many Western norms. In the West, treatments often focus on isolated fixes: some filler here, a laser there. In Seoul, clinics take an architectural approach: a customised protocol that combines lifting, volumising and biological regeneration in a single session. Moreover, only licensed doctors with a medical degree are legally permitted to administer aesthetics. This stands in contrast to the UK and the US, where barriers to practice often end at a payable course.
“Stem cell treatments, exosome facials and bio-revitalisation techniques are three to five years ahead of what’s commonly available in the West. Dermatologists co-develop products with biotech firms, whereas many Western treatments are behind in working this way,” adds Tori Kim, spokesperson for Korean skincare brand Anua.
Moreover, all the data produced in-clinic using facial scanning machines is used to drive innovation and develop new advancements. “Every month, we dedicate a full day to close the spa and focus entirely on training. This includes hands-on studies of emerging skin technologies, understanding evolving skin conditions and reviewing real client cases to build team-wide expertise,” says Tori. He adds that they then partner with dermatologists to share data and insights collected through these studies, contributing to the development of better skin treatment protocols and cutting-edge technologies, “including emerging innovations like plasma therapy and advanced cleansing systems, which we believe will play a major role in skincare in the next five to 10 years”, he adds.
Regulation vs innovation
In the UK, there is a significant and continually growing interest in facial aesthetic treatments. “One of the main reasons as to why Western markets have been slow to adopt some of the approaches seen in Korea are simply due to the differences in cultural attitudes towards aesthetics,” says Dr Tony Kaliya, founder and medical director of London-based NEU Cosmetic Clinic. “However, in Korea, beauty treatments are deeply integrated into mainstream culture and are often viewed as routine maintenance similar to going to the gym or the dentist. In the West, there has historically been more stigma around ‘having work done’, though this is gradually changing.”
But as attitudes shift, there are still roadblocks for the West to adopt and innovate in this space. South Korea’s beauty clinics operate in a uniquely permissive regulatory environment that has helped accelerate innovation. Compared to Western markets, where medical and cosmetic procedures must pass through lengthy, multi-phase clinical trials and strict regulatory oversight before reaching market, Korea’s system is far more flexible. Their governing body, the Ministry of Food and Drug safety, oversees medical devices and treatments, often distinguishing invasive procedures (ones that require full clinical clearance) and invasive or minimally invasive treatments, which can be introduced quicker under looser clarifications.
Korean clinics can legally offer certain new procedures under a “non-licensed medical practice” designation, provided they’re administered by a certified medical professional and don’t present significant health risks. This means technologies like laser stacking, polynucleotide injections, or plasma therapy can be tested, adapted and promoted within months — versus years of regulatory purgatory in the West.
“When it comes to advanced skincare products, the regulatory landscapes in the UK and the US differ significantly from Korean legislation, above all for anti-aging, brightening, problem skin solutions and suncare,” says Olivia Santoni, CEO of Bloom Regulatory. For example, one notable gap is in the approval of UV filters, as FDA approval of new, over-the-counter active ingredients in the US is extremely challenging. “We are seeing a big gap in UV filter authorisations in the US, meaning that certain new UK or Korean formulas will not be suitable for the US market,” she continues.
Korean legislation also has a specific category for functional cosmetics, where stronger claims can be made with the right evidence and formulation across skin whitening, alleviating acne and improving skin wrinkles. “Having dedicated categories for these types of products helps companies to develop more advanced formulas, and above all, give them the possibility to talk about the benefits in a stronger way than would be allowed in the UK or the US — where such claims could risk classification of the product as medicinal,” explains Santoni.
This has opened a powerful lane for Korean skincare brands to lead with innovation, using ingredients once limited to medical settings, like exosomes and polynucleotides (PDRN) in creams, serums and masks. “Many Western consumers haven’t heard of PDRN [a regenerative skin treatment derived from salmon DNA that promotes skin healing, rejuvenation and repair],” Tori says. “So bringing it into topical skincare in the UK is both exciting and challenging. It’s not just about selling the product, but also educating consumers about why it works.”
UK clinics are already taking note. London-based A-list aesthetic clinic Dr Dray has launched a treatment called Opallure, inspired by the Korean beauty principles they have been innovating upon for months. Incorporating skin boosters and PDRN, the treatment responds to growing demand for regenerative solutions in the UK market.
The products
As aesthetic treatments become more advanced, consumers are increasingly seeking topical products that promise similar results — minus the needles, downtime or clinic visits. “Beauty products and regimes will adapt to the impact of aesthetics,” agrees Millie Kendall, CEO of the British Beauty Council. “[The pursuit of better skin] has propelled research and development in a direction that is focused on regenerating the skin and the use of peptides and growth factors to repair and rebuild is replacing the products that treat the skin.”
This growing appetite for clinically inspired skincare has fuelled explosive demand for Korean brands that blur the line between cosmeceuticals and medical aesthetics in Western markets. One such brand is Anua. Launched in 2010, Anua has experienced rapid growth thanks to blurring this line with its PDRN product innovation, which has met a staggering 306 per cent year-on-year sales increase — from $15.5 million in 2023 to $63 million in 2024, per the brand. Eighty-three per cent of its total sales now come from international markets, with the UK emerging as a particularly high-growth region. As of March 2025, Anua has expanded from 140 to 470 Boots stores across the country, following a 330 per cent increase in revenue since its initial rollout in September 2024.
“Injectable PDRN is not currently approved by the FDA or the MHRA as a dermal treatment,” explains Anua’s Tori. “For context, it was approved in South Korea back in 2008, which shows how far ahead the Korean market is. However, PDRN in topicals and cosmeceuticals can be sold under cosmetic regulation, making it easier to market in the UK and the EU.” (There is currently no timeline or pending FDA/MHRA process for injectable PDRN approval.)
As consumers become more fluent in clinical language and start expecting results that mirror in-clinic treatments, the demand for high-performance, science-backed skincare is only intensifying. To meet this shift, brands are innovating with a renewed focus on long-term skin health over quick fixes — a philosophy that mirrors the Korean approach to beauty.
“We’re seeing brands formulate with an emphasis on sustained skin improvement rather than instant results,” says Seen Group’s Scott. “This is particularly evident in the latest wave of sun protection products, which go beyond UV defence to deliver a host of advanced skincare benefits.”
It will be hard for Western brands to keep pace. “Korean beauty is daring in using ingredients that are different and unique for stories. They do test for product safety and allergic reactions on ingredients and formulas, but the reliance on manufacturer’s compliance is greater. So unless there’s a mindset change to foster innovation and shorten the approval process, it might be hard [for Western brands] to compete,” says cosmetic chemist Ginger King. “For Korean product development, it focuses on innovation and speed to market. There is not much red tape for regulation like in the EU, which slows things down.”
When it comes to ingredients, some — like human stem cells and salmon sperm — are not considered acceptable elsewhere. “Western companies tend to use non-animal derived products, so when the snail slime was popular, there were vegan versions in the Western market,” says King. She adds that any reformulation for either regulatory compliance or local customer adaptation will take another six to nine months, with about $10,000 to $30,000 of retesting on claims.
In a landscape defined by personalisation, precision and performance, the future of beauty may well be written in Hangul.
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