On June 20, Meghan Markle’s lifestyle brand, As Ever, made an announcement—they were launching a rosé. A 2024 Napa Valley Rosé, to be exact: “with soft notes of stone fruit, gentle minerality, and a lasting finish,” per their newsletter. Eleven days later, the bottles went up for sale on AsEver.com. They all sold out in under an hour. Capitalizing on the success of the first drop, Marke did a second on August 5. That too quickly went out of stock.
While the exact amount of As Ever Rosé inventory put up for sale is unknown, no doubt part of the reason the product moved fast is Markle herself: Since leaving the royal family in January 2020, she s remained a constant—and controversial—figure in the public eye. Some people love her, while others, well, do not. (According to YouGov, she has a popularity rating of 21% in the United Kingdom.) Yet there’s very few among us who don’t have a baseline of curiosity about her: whatever your thoughts are, you’re interested in reading—or watching, or scrolling—what she’s up to. And now, apparently, ordering.
Here’s the thing, though: is her rosé actually any good?
Celebrity-owned rosés have arguably reached a saturation point. In addition to Markle, there’s Brad Pitt’s Miraval, Jon Bon Jovi’s Hampton Water, Sarah Jessica Parker’s Invivo X, just to name a few. (Oh, and who could forget Snoop Dogg’s 19 Crimes?) Some of them are well-respected in the industry, others, not much more than a thinly veiled cash grab.
So which catgeory one does Markle’s fall under? Well, we decided to ask Jordan Salcito, an award-winning sommelier who oversaw the wine program at Eleven Madison Park and Momofuku, to put As Ever Rosé to an unbiased taste-test. “I approached it exactly as I would any other bottle: with curiosity, attention, and the analytical framework I ve used to understand thousands of wines throughout my career,” says Salcito, whose how-to-wine tasting book, Smart Mouth, comes out this October. Her honest review, below. (Oh, and if you managed to get your hands on the in-demand vino? Salcito recommends pairing it with “chilled with grilled salmon, pork belly or barbecue, roasted vegetables, or even spicy Thai takeout.”)
This isn t the pale, whisper-thin pink of so many celebrity rosés that seem designed more for Instagram than actual drinking. Instead, we re looking at a gorgeous, substantial pink with a dark rose-colored center that transitions to a pale rim.
The viscosity immediately caught my attention. Medium-plus weight in the glass tells a story before you even smell or taste anything. This indicates the grapes were harvested very ripe, which suggests a winemaking team that prioritized concentration and flavor development over simply getting the wine to market quickly.
This is where things get interesting. I always approach aromatics and flavors using my mental framework of Fruit, Earth, Wood, Flowers, Herbs, Spices, and Other; these are categories that help keep me focused on the symphony of sensations happening in my glass.
Fruit: The wine delivers exactly what you hope for from premium rosé: ripe strawberries that remind you of summer farmers’ markets, juicy watermelon, and a beautiful citrus component of pink grapefruit and grapefruit peel that adds sophistication and lift.
Earth: Here’s where As Ever shows some personality. The river stone minerality adds a backbone that elevates this beyond simple fruit-forward rosé territory. It’s subtle but noticeable, and I loved this.
Wood: Refreshingly, there’s no obvious new oak here. No vanilla, no baking spice distractions. The wine speaks clearly of fruit rather than winemaking technique—a smart choice for rosé.
Flowers Herbs: The hibiscus flower notes are particularly lovely, adding an almost tea-like elegance. A whisper of thyme and oregano might surprise some people, but these herbal elements are what make this wine food-friendly rather than just a poolside sipper.
Spices: Pink peppercorn adds a delicate spice note that complements rather than overwhelms.
Here’s where I separate the serious wines from the marketing exercises. Structure—what I call the TAAL framework (Tannins, Acid, Alcohol, Length)—is arguably the most important part of any wine analysis.
Tannins: As expected in rosé, there are no perceptible tannins here. The grape skins had minimal contact with the juice, exactly right for this style.
Acidity: The acidity is bright and fresh, like biting into a grapefruit. This level of acidity means the wine will pair nicely with food and should age gracefully for a year or so if you don t drink it all this summer.
Alcohol: At 14.5% alcohol by volume, this is quite high for rosé, where most are around 12-13%. You can feel this richness and weight on your palate, along with a bit of heat on the finish. This isn’t necessarily a flaw, but it does position this as a more full-bodied rosé, meant to enjoy with snacks or a meal, rather than a light apéritif.
Length/Complexity: The finish is long, with those slightly bitter grapefruit notes lingering.
Is As Ever revolutionary? No. But it’s genuinely well-made rosé that happens to have a famous name attached; it tastes like a wine first and a celebrity product second. The technical execution is solid, the flavor profile is compelling, and the structure suggests this will drink well for the next year or two. It’s perfect for sophisticated summer entertaining, pairing with Mediterranean cuisine, or as an introduction to more serious rosé for those used to lighter styles.
