The tensions between the US and Ukraine have cast a heavy mood over the Ukrainian fashion community. Designers are showing resilience at Paris Fashion Week (PFW), presenting collections that celebrate their heritage during dark times.
Last week, US President Donald Trump met with Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy in the Oval Office to discuss Ukraine’s war with Russia, and the US’s proposed deal to achieve peace. The meeting, which was conducted in front of news outlets and cameras, ended in an argument between the two leaders, followed by the Trump administration suspending military aid to Ukraine. Now, it looks like the leaders are ready to cooperate.
“I feel that the general consensus is we have to move forward and pull through. People are of course concerned about the latest news, but the stoicism is contagious,” says Vena Brykalin, editor-in-chief of Vogue Ukraine. “Everyone is trying to do their best work, designers that sell internationally try to present in the main cities — Bevza in New York, Masha Popova in London, Litkovska in Paris. It’s not just about being creative, but keeping people’s jobs and supporting their families.”
Many international brands shared statements of support immediately after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022, with some announcing fundraising, too. Since then, international fashion weeks (including London, Berlin and Paris) have supported Ukrainian brands in showing on-schedule as they grapple with challenges in keeping their businesses afloat. In September 2024, Ukrainian Fashion Week returned for the first time in two years, and it took place again in February 2025.
In 2023, Ukrainian model agent and PR Aleksandra Volkova set up Fashion Discovery London, a showcase which spotlights designers from various backgrounds, including many from Ukraine. In its February 2025 edition, the Ukrainian designers featured in the showcase were Sofia Kovalska (who is based in London and blends Ukrainian heritage with contemporary clothing), Shevchenko Sisters (based in Kharkiv and known for its elegant pieces with feminine details) and Demn (based in Kyiv and known for its subversive take on tailoring). “These events serve as a reminder to the global community that the war in Ukraine is still ongoing, but despite this, our brands continue to create stunning collections and grow,” says Volkova. “It is an incredible opportunity for these brands to gain international recognition and for buyers and the global fashion community to discover new talent that truly deserves attention and support.”
“Looking back at the last three years, I think the support from the industry has been unprecedented, especially in the first year. We’ve seen individuals and companies reaching out, offering Ukrainian talent opportunities in the form of pop-ups and retail projects, spots on fashion week calendars,” says Brykalin. “That said, I feel it’s not been the case these past two seasons. Ukrainian designers had an incredible range of opportunities, and those who were ready and willing to use them, have benefited from them. But fashion is business and now it’s gotten back to how good you are and how relevant your product is. Those who know how to stay in the business, stay in the business.”
Brykalin adds that, as much as visibility at fashion week and in the press is important, he’s keen to see more tangible investment such as mentorship and retail opportunities to help Ukrainian brands grow and expand into new markets.
We spoke to the founders of some of the Ukrainian brands with activations at PFW about what to expect from their Autumn/Winter 2025 collections and why they continue to show up at fashion week.
Litkovska
Founder: Lilia Litkovska
Founded: 2009
Description: Womenswear brand known for elegant tailoring and modern silhouettes.
PFW activation: Presentation on 5 March.
I launched Litkovska in 2009 in Kyiv as a form of self-exploration and as a result of my infatuation with clothing from an early age. I come from four generations of tailors, so craftsmanship is in my DNA. AW25, called ‘3am — Traverse’, will be quite a rebellious one. The presentation will take place in an iconic Parisian vintage market, a place that exists outside of time, where the past and the future converge in a quiet conversation. No big runway, no audience, no crowds — only the dialogue between the past and the present, in a place where fashion is judged by its ability to stand the test of time, not by fleeting trends. This collection is a tribute to resilience, inspired by my ascent of Kilimanjaro with Ukrainian soldiers who are learning to navigate life with prosthetics — and to whom I dedicate it sincerely. This is about the passage through struggle and the promise that even in darkness, there is hope for new light on the horizon.
Paris is where history and the future of fashion coexist. It’s not just about visibility; it’s about entering a conversation that spans time. Showing here is also a way of ensuring that Ukrainian fashion is part of the global narrative, proving that even in times of struggle, we continue to create, innovate and move forward.
Anna October
Founder: Anna October
Founded: 2010
Description: Womenswear brand known for its feminine dresses, tailoring and use of deadstock materials.
PFW activation: Showroom from 6 to 11 March.
At Anna October, we celebrate the female form and the power of dressing for oneself. Each piece is meant to empower the wearer — bold yet effortless, whimsical yet versatile — made to be loved, lived in and reworn through various stages of a woman’s life. As a proud Ukrainian brand, we honour our heritage with ‘Made in Ukraine’ labels on every garment, reflecting our commitment to local craftsmanship and resilience.
This season at PFW, we’re not just presenting our collection in a showroom — we’re also celebrating with an Anna October-esque party, which I am hosting with my friend [entrepreneur and It-girl] Svita Sobol. Anna October has always been about joie de vivre, but in times of crisis, joy itself becomes an act of resilience. Showcasing at PFW allows us to share the craftsmanship and creativity of Ukraine with the world, proving that beauty and strength can coexist, even in difficult times. It’s also a moment to bring our community together — friends, muses and collaborators — who continue to support and uplift independent brands like ours.
Ruslan Baginskiy
Founder: Ruslan Baginskiy
Founded: 2015
Description: Headwear and accessories brand known for signature baker boy hats and berets.
PFW activation: Showroom from 3 to 11 March.
My brand is about modern craft. I really enjoy bridging traditional artisanal techniques and contemporary design. To me, it’s about honouring heritage while pushing it forward, finding ways to make handcraft relevant today. And of course exploring the sculptural potential of headwear. My collection is built around the idea of transformation. The world around us is changing so quickly and adaptability has become essential — in life and in design. I wanted to create pieces that reflect this moment, visually interesting but also versatile and multifunctional. There’s a strong focus on craftsmanship, as we continue to craft in Ukraine, but also on the idea of fluidity and change.
For me, the only way to move forward, especially in uncertain times, is to keep working, keep showing up and keep telling our story. Paris Fashion Week is more than just a place to present collections; it’s a platform for global conversations. There’s an incredible creative energy in Ukraine, and I want to share that with the world. At this time, fashion is about people and relationships; our showroom is a space where we can connect, where people can see and feel the craftsmanship up close, and where we can show what Ukrainian culture is about.
Bevza
Founder: Svitlana Bevza
Founded: 2006
Description: Womenswear brand known for its minimalist designs inspired by Ukrainian heritage.
PFW activation: Showroom from 6 to 11 March.
Bevza is a brand that blends sophisticated minimalism with deep Ukrainian cultural roots. Many of our pieces are handmade or crafted using zero-waste techniques, and we prioritise deadstock and eco-friendly fabrics in our production. Our work promotes Ukraine as a peaceful country with talented artisans, tailors, and beautiful fertile land.
Our AW25 collection, showcased during New York Fashion Week, highlights exquisite handcrafted details and architectural silhouettes. One standout piece is a hand-knitted coat made from vintage mink coats, meticulously cut into fine strips and reworked into a new form. The texture of braids — an essential motif in Ukrainian culture — runs throughout the collection, woven seamlessly into our minimalist yet structurally refined designs.
We hold our wholesale showrooms in Paris, as European and international buyers visit us mainly there. It’s important for us to keep going, to show resilience and how Bevza is very dedicated to holding in-person meetings with the industry, media, buyers, and clients to tell our story directly from our team.
Bobkova
Founder: Kristina Bobkova
Founded: 2000
Description: Womenswear brand known for creating sophisticated feminine silhouettes with a twist, often using deadstock and recycled materials.
PFW activation: Showroom from 7 to 11 March.
Our mantra is to create collections that are relevant and effortless regardless of the time and situation. The main role of Bobkova lies in the social and cultural aspects: we stand for equality in all its manifestations, blurring gender stereotypes. As a Ukrainian brand, we study, preserve and rethink the traditions of our country in our collections and convey our view of Ukrainian culture to the whole world through the collections. In our AW25 collection, we continue to integrate Ukrainian material culture into contemporary fashion, emphasising resourcefulness and the ingenuity of artisanal techniques.
Paris is where our buyers from Asia, the Middle East, Europe and America come to see, explore and order collections. It offers the perfect environment to meet global influencers and press to discover our collection and to grow our audience and general awareness for Ukrainian craftsmanship. We Ukrainians are going through a difficult period, so my biggest concern is conveying our cultural values, resilience, desire for peace and preservation of our identity, traditions and crafts to the world. This is what our AW25 collection is dedicated to, and PFW gives us the power to amplify our message.
Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
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