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London’s fashion community hasn’t been this excited about fashion week for a long time. The schedule has been bulked out by new buzzy names, certain international attendees are flying in for the first time in years, and the scale of the events and shows feels significantly bigger.
It’s all thanks to the changes that new British Fashion Council (BFC) CEO Laura Weir has installed to bring the spotlight back to London Fashion Week (LFW). “This season will have a renewed focus on cultural relevance, international reach and meaningful support for designers,” Weir tells Vogue Business. “We have waived membership fees to make the platform more accessible to designers, we have curated a schedule that speaks to London’s cultural relevance and we have doubled our investment in the International Guest Programme.”
LFW insiders have noticed a shift in energy. “February felt like one of the quietest seasons in years, but we can sense a renewed energy around the upcoming London Fashion Week,” says Arne Eggers, managing director at PR firm Karla Otto, which has received more client enquiries than usual in the lead up to the week. “The industry continues to face significant challenges around trade, rising costs and reduced consumer spending, but there is hope that a new chapter at the BFC will be a catalyst for positive change.”
LFW will kick off with a H&M&180, a workshop-meets-catwalk-meets-party blockbuster event that follows from last year’s Charli XCX gig. Other key moments include the BFC’s dinner with JW Anderson on Friday and its closing party hosted in partnership with Outlander Magazine. Talent incubator Fashion East will celebrate its 25th anniversary, while Erdem and Roksanda will celebrate their 20th anniversaries. The BFC will also collaborate with content creator Lyas (who went viral this summer for organising a watch party for Jonathan Anderson’s debut at Dior), hosting a similar event tied to Dilara Fındıkoğlu’s show.
There are a number of new exciting names on the schedule, including Addison Rae-favourite Lucila Safdie, made-to-order womenswear brand Dreaming Eli, menswear tailor Kyle Ho and artisanal designer Rory William Docherty. Indian couturier Anamika Khanna — who usually shows in Lakmé and has also presented in Paris — will debut at London Fashion Week with a show for her ready-to-wear brand, AK|OK. Hungarian brand Nanushka is also showing in London for the first time after joining schedules in New York and Paris. There are some familiar names who have returned to LFW, too, such as Ahluwalia and Aaron Esh.
“London Fashion Week kicks off this Thursday — and at a time when we need community and creativity more than ever,” says Laura Ingham, deputy director of Vogue’s global fashion network. She highlights Talia Byre’s runway debut (she has previously favoured intimate presentations), along with Roksanda and Erdem’s anniversary shows and “fashion’s favourite romantic”, Simone Rocha. “I’m most looking forward to Chopova Lowena’s fresh take on casting, Dilara’s next empowering statement and seeing where Daniel [Lee] takes Burberry, following a summer of standout takeovers. Off-schedule, you’ll find us at Skepta’s Mains Season 3 — a Saturday night highlight — and at the Vogue Café at the 180 Corner Shop. Come join us for a wellness session or a caffeine hit,” she says.
The international guest list looks significantly longer this season, and includes buyers from Galeries Lafayette, Chalhoub Group, Dover Street Market (both Paris and Ginza), Le Bon Marché, Saks Fifth Avenue, Printemps, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and more. Key global press include The Cut editor-in-chief Lindsay Peoples and chief critic Cathy Horyn, along with editors from Vogue Japan and France, W Korea, Dazed MENA and Grazia Italia. Fashion’s favourite social media commentators will also be flying in, including Nicky Campbell, Ashantéa Austin (@mustbemargiela), Luke Meagher (@hautelemode), Hanan Besovic (@ideservecouture), Beka Gvishiani (@stylenotcom), Mandy Lee (@oldloserinbrooklyn) and Rian Phin (@thatadult).
“We have doubled our investment in the International Guest Programme, so that the world’s most influential editors, buyers and cultural voices are here in our city and are physically present to see the brilliance of British designers up close,” says Weir. “We have sharpened our focus on strategic markets and extended the length of guest stays. As part of this increased investment, we have introduced a minimum requirement for attendance at shows and bespoke coverage commitments. We have seen fantastic uptake this season with various industry big hitters in town as part of the programme who might not have otherwise travelled to the city.”
Beyond London, the BFC has invested in its City Wide Celebration with the support of ongoing sponsor 1664 Blanc, with over 1,000 activations taking place across Manchester, Liverpool and Newcastle this season. “It’s an ambitious step towards making London Fashion Week not just a moment for industry, but a celebration of creativity that everyone can be part of,” says Weir. “We launched this in Liverpool earlier this month with a sold-out ‘At Home With’ panel discussion, moderated by Andrew Ibi in conversation with designers Patrick McDowell, Steven Stokey-Daley and Talia Byre.”
There’s lots of anticipation ahead of the season, and the BFC is confident in its ability to deliver. “It’s the beginning of a new journey, a step in the right direction,” Weir says.
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London Fashion Week unveils first schedule under new strategy
BFC chief exec Laura Weir sets out vision for ‘next British fashion era’
