"Across Oaxaca, each region and pueblo has its own distinct style of mask, often used in dances that serve as a living expression of the town s identity.
During my trip to Mexico last year, a friend from Oaxaca, Blanca Vera, invited me to a local community Fete to take portraits with the Diablos. Blanca is from Santiago Juxtlahuaca, a small town in Oaxaca, and her father, Alejandro Vera, is a master craftsman who creates these masks by hand from dried sabino wood. Blanca grew up immersed in this tradition.
One early morning, I was told to be ready at 5 a.m. to be picked up by a minibus carrying the Diablos. I had no idea where we were going or when we’d return, but I embraced the uncertainty. Sharing sleepy moments and a few laughs with the crew at sunrise, I watched the transformation take place. As a photographer, it struck me as ironic to be heading into such a vivid experience without a clear plan—trusting time to reveal itself through the camera’s lens.
We arrived at dawn to a large tent surrounded by agave farmland. Almost immediately, the trumpets began to play. Under the desert heat, I carried my heavy, conspicuous medium-format camera, trying to keep up with the action. The Diablos cracked their ropes like thunder and danced in frenetic bursts to the sound of brass, while turkeys wandered among ceremonial corn arrangements and produce sellers. It was exhilarating but chaotic, and I quickly realized I needed to adapt my approach to make the most of my time with the Diablos.
While I took a few shots of the dances, they were too fast and crowded for the kind of connection I sought. I wanted something more personal, something that captured the individuality of each mask and its wearer. During a quieter moment, I found a spot in the car park with the mountains as a backdrop—an ideal setting to convey the abundant beauty of the region. As the light shifted, I took intentional portraits, focusing on each mask and the person behind it.
Weeks later, back in London, I obsessively safeguarded those rolls of film until I could finally see what I had captured. Hours spent in the darkroom brought these images to life, and sharing them with the subjects felt like the completion of a creative journey. Now, I’d like to share them with a wider audience"
Text and photographs by Leif Sebastian
