There’s just something about the Oscars that spurs peak nostalgia for the glamour of Old Hollywood.
Through the gleaming filter of beauty, more often than not it’s stars like Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor who get name-checked. But celebrity makeup artist Nick Barose, whose clients include Lupita Nyong’o and Gugu Mbatha-Raw, has always looked beyond the usual—typically white—suspects to cater to the needs and desires of his wide breadth of clients.
“What most consider to be iconic beauty inspiration is limited and not diverse enough,” says Barose, citing stereotypical screen-star beauty exemplified by Hitchcock blondes like Grace Kelly and Tippi Hedren or the gamine beauty of Hepburn. “A Marilyn red lip doesn’t work on all coloring and complexions.” But, just as importantly, it’s about paying homage to the iconic women of color who have lit up and left their everlasting mark on the silver screen. From Mexican actress Dolores del Río to Bollywood legend Hema Malini, here Barose shares five of his favorite Hollywood beauty icons—and the products he loves most for channeling their signature looks.
Anna May Wong
“She’s the first Chinese American movie star in Hollywood! Unfortunately, they often dressed her in elaborate ‘exotic’ costumes to fit [Asian stereotypes], but she was one of the most stylish and elegant women in Hollywood. Her makeup was always simple with a wash of lip color and rimming of eyeliner. The only thing retro was her arched brows of the era.”
Dorothy Dandridge
“I often draw inspiration from Dorothy. Her makeup is classic and offers a timeless glamour that’s perfect for the red carpet. Working with Gugu at this year’s Golden Globes, I was definitely inspired by Dorothy’s bold orange lips, which really complemented her golden complexion.”
Dolores del Río
“A Mexican movie star, Dolores’s beauty and style actually inspired a lot of Hollywood’s leading ladies. Even before Joan Crawford, she was rocking highly arched brows, as well as dark glossy eyes and lips that added to that mysterious beauty look. I’ve used her as inspiration for Gugu’s beauty looks many times.”
Hema Malini
“An iconic Bollywood star, she was known for her captivating eyes. Before I learned about Hollywood actresses, I learned about Hema. She was a beauty icon for my mom, who would emulate her beautiful eye makeup. Her signature look, with liquid liner and full lashes, really brings out dark eyes.”
Diana Ross
“In Lady Sings the Blues, the movie that got her the Oscar nomination, she played Billie Holiday, but the look got a ’70s spin. I love the fun metallic and bronzy tones on eyes and lips. The bronze washes add a fresh, monochromatic touch to it that complements her complexion.”
