This op-ed originated from an Instagram post shared on 29 October by Sam McKnight, hairstylist and brand founder.
I’ve been involved with London Fashion Week since my dear friend Lynne Franks helped start it over 40 years ago, and, my, how it has evolved. However, the backstage conditions can leave a lot to be desired; too often unsanitary, ridiculously cramped, hot and frankly unsafe for the 120-plus artists, models, stylists and photographers to do their respective jobs to the standards expected.
I’ve been banging on for at least 20 years (at the risk of sounding like a grumpy old man — and now this GOM is speaking out on behalf of those who can’t, for fear of being blacklisted) about overcrowding, unnecessary and disturbing screaming and shouting, unsuitable and unstable mirrors, the lack of proper lighting, or hair washing facilities, drinking water, the list goes on. We are often expected to create immaculate and sometimes quite complicated looks in incredibly cramped conditions, trying carefully to manipulate our hot appliances without injuring models or ourselves.
Yes, it’s chaotic and stressful and we love that buzz, we are all extremely passionate about our work, but let’s not make it unnecessarily so. The beauty teams are referred to as “assistants”, which I feel needs to change. They are very experienced, talented craftspeople with often decades of experience. Some of my team have been in my team for 30 years. So let’s show respect. We love what we do, so help us do it smoothly, safely and efficiently.
Backstage workers are, I fear, conditioned to think that asking for our basic needs to be met is us somehow being difficult to work with. And there is the longstanding fear of being the whistleblower. But I’ve got my whistle out and am blowing it hard for all the people who feel they can’t. This area is long overdue for reform.
Backstage teams are integral to the success of every show, yet their value continues to go overlooked. Hair and makeup teams, production crews and other creative staff are often treated as peripheral, despite being fundamental to the final presentation.
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And just to add to the ever-evolving mix, in recent years, with the importance of social media, the backstage spaces have to accommodate the lookbook set, the video set and the social media set, so the space is even tighter. I know that beauty brands today are far less likely to sponsor backstage beauty because they feel squeezed out, unable to get the valuable content that is the purpose of sponsorship. We need a dedicated small space for the beauty sponsors to get the shots they paid for.
Recently, I’ve been working with trade union Bectu to try and improve standards, and move forward. We understand that budgets are often tight, but basic standards of health, safety and respect should never be negotiable. Many of the issues outlined require no significant financial investment, only commitment, communication and accountability.
According to the British Fashion Council (BFC), the fashion industry contributed £34 billion to the UK economy last year, with the British Beauty Council (BBC) noting that beauty contributes a further £30.4 billion. We’re definitely not those fledgling industries from 1984! It’s big business now. If we’re going to compete with the European capitals, we need to treat the backstage teams accordingly.
I write all this with the utmost respect for the designers, the production teams, the PRs who work tirelessly to make the magic happen, but in 2025, we need to move with the times. I’m looking forward to discussing how we can work together to make a better, safer future for our community.
