If the Vogue office was a little sleepy yesterday, can you blame us after a full week of runway shows? Still, you know who’s really tired right now? New York designers! Before moving onto London Fashion Week tomorrow, we’ve put together a few of our standout moments from the New York collections, because the home team deserves their props, whether it was Michael Kors marking 45 years in business at the Metropolitan Opera House or Ashlyn’s Ashlynn Park exploring materials and treatments but maintaining the signature sculptural DNA that won her last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award. Onwards!
Tory Burch felt like a real event show. I loved seeing the show at the Breuer building and the beautiful warm wood panels they built for the set. The collection felt polished and wearable but also a bit kooky and eccentric, like the most stylish women, IMHO. I loved the sardine accessories.—Chloe Malle
Michael Kors reminds us all how lucky we are to be in fashion. His 45th anniversary show at the Metropolitan Opera House at Lincoln Center was a love letter to New York. As we took in the glamorous surroundings at the Metropolitan Opera House, Tonne Goodman, my colleague and a native New Yorker said, “being here just never gets old.” Nor does Michael’s effortless style. His after-party at PJ Clarke’s was easy, fun, and chic—just like Michael himself.—Virginia Smith
From the intimate National Arts Club setting to the New Wave soundtrack of Psychedelic Furs and Siouxsie Sioux (my seat mate Laird Borrelli-Persson helpfully Shazamed every song), to the ultra-glam crowd—Debbie Harry and Marc Jacobs, included—the feel-good moment of my week was the Anna Sui show. If anybody can make me want to wear a retro ’60s flower brocade pant suit trimmed in faux fur, it’s her.—Nicole Phelps
Just when New York Fashion Week fatigue had begun to set in, Diotima’s show felt like a jolt of fresh air. Rachel Scott wove art and identity into a collection that balanced sculptural tailoring with intricate knit and crochet work, resulting in garments that felt both intimate and quietly powerful. In my opinion, it was her strongest collection for the brand to date, reaffirming her as one of fashion’s most compelling storytellers.—Naomi Elizee
Colleen Allen is always a NYFW highlight, and her Louise Bourgeois-inspired collection was no exception. In addition to the lush, cocoon-like wraps and the delicate, intentionally tattered lace dresses, Allen introduced her first-ever accessory: a bustle bag, which can be held or tied around the waist. I’ll take one of everything, please.—Hannah Jackson
A big personal highlight of the week was seeing the Public School designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow make their buzzy return to NYFW. It was so nostalgic to see the duo take their bow once again, and their collection proved why they have been so missed: They showed a cool, modern assortment of menswear that delivered all the classics (great coats, greater suits) but with a twist. I’m still thinking of one look in particular: A satiny red bomber styled over a slouchy double-breasted suit. So good.—Christian Allaire
There are so many pop moments from this season (like seeing Grace Coddington at Zane Li’s fantastic Lii show), but I’ve been asked to pick one and so my vote goes to Marina Moscone. The designer, who is always looking at art, presented fall at the Chelsea Hotel with her dog Gia. The clothes were beautiful, a step forward from the past few seasons—classic and modern, spare but not austere. Adding a touch of total romance were florally feathery shoe clips.—Laird Borrelli-Persson
My favorite moment this week was Ashlynn Park’s Ashlyn show. I love nothing more than when you can see the impact that the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize has on a designer’s collection development. The 025 winner, Park had clearly used the funding to explore new shapes and fabrics all with her sculptural DNA. These are clothes I can’t wait to wear.—Libby Page
This NYFW I loved seeing Zankov create his own grunge-meets-prep aesthetic. The vampy color palette and new fabric experimentations felt like natural maturations of what he does best. The psychedelic ski knits are just what a moody east coaster needs.—Alexandra Hildreth
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I’ve long been a fan of pony hair and great pendant necklaces and was excited to see an influx of both this week at emerging labels Fforme and Campillo; the swinging fish and leather flasks at Tory Burch and TWP were cool too. I am also a sucker for a good music moment and couldn’t help but tap my foot to the “Losing My Edge” cut from LCD Soundsystem at Public School’s return and a live performance from Hamilton Leithauser at Khaite’s post-show cocktails at Bemelmans Bar.—Madeline Fass
Altuzarra is always a highlight for me: The Woolworth Building venue feels bright and calm, and I love unwrapping the book on my seat to see which novel Joseph Altuzarra used as his inspiration. But this season his show especially stood out. The textures and styling were so good, with the layers of suede, leather, cashmere, and shearling that I wanted to reach out and touch. The buzz after the show felt different, too. Could Joseph be teed up for a bigger job? Will Altuzarra break through as a bigger US brand? I hope so. Exciting things seem to be ahead!—Hilary Milnes
At Lii, Zane Li continues to up his game. It’s American sportswear unlike anything else out there right now, at once minimalist and playful. The shapes are always great, and this season’s introduction of pastel pinks and mint greens alongside the usual color-blocked reds and bright blues carried it forward. I’m so excited to see where Li takes the brand from here.—Madeleine Schulz
This New York Fashion Week was all about the snacks for me. On the first day, the amazing Karla Otto team sent over baguettes from Balthazar to celebrate Ami Paris’s collab with the famous New York brasserie. Trekking all the way uptown to the Tory Burch show, the bread was the perfect pre-dinner snack to keep from passing out from hunger. And, of course, the chocolate chip cookies from TWP were also delicious. Thanks to all the gluten free-ers at the show, I had enough cookies to last me until the Gabe Gordon show on Saturday night.—Irene Kim