Perspectives From Pennsylvania’s Farm Country, November 2020

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Photographed by Caroline Tompkins

This year has been particularly tough for farmers. President Trump’s antagonistic trade policies saw family farm bankruptcies reach their highest level since 2011, catastrophic weather events caused by climate change battered large parts of the country and the coronavirus pandemic has frozen the restaurant industry around the world, disrupting the supply chains that U.S. farmers rely on. 

Meanwhile, much has been written about Pennsylvania s significance to this election, the “farmer s vote”, and its projected outcome. In response to this, Caroline Tompkins documented the farming community in rural western Pennsylvania, and spoke to real people about their motivations and goals at this moment in time.

Quarter Pine Tree Farm, Smithfield
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Jim Rockis, 64 (left) founded Quarter Pine Tree Farm in 1993. Beth Bossio, 37 (middle), Will Rockis, 25 (right) and Bob Churby, 68 (not pictured) operate the Christmas tree farm with a roster of seasonal employees. 

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A real tree spends around eight years growing before it is harvested. In those eight years, it converts CO2 into oxygen, provides a habitat for wildlife, and keeps large tracts green across the U.S. 

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For Bossio, who has been on the farm since she was 12 years old, their trees are “the center of a family's Christmas holiday. This year especially, I feel it will be viewed as a beacon of hope and peace.” 

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“Unlike artificial trees,” notes Bossio, “when you are finished with a real tree, it is 100% recyclable and 100% biodegradable.” 

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At Quarter Pine Tree Farm, on average three seedlings are planted for every tree harvested.

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The team also operates a Christmas tree seed orchard on the farm, which they then wholesale.

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The Christmas tree industry has grown significantly in the last 10 years, something Bossio attributes to changing consumer priorities. “Families are wanting fun experiences together, so they are opting to enjoy the outdoors.  People are now making the choice to purchase a real tree because they know it's better for the environment.” Beyond that, she credits The Christmas Tree Promotion Board's unified marketing message: “It's Christmas, Keep it Real.” 


Sand Hill Berries, Mt. Pleasant
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Richard Lynn, 71 (left) and Susan Lynn, 71 (right).

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Robert Schilling, 68 (left) and Amy Schilling, 67 (right). 

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The Lynns and the Schillings are co-owners of Sand Hill Berries, which specializes in red raspberries, red currants, black currants, gooseberries, yellow raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, strawberries, heritage variety apples, French American hybrid grapes, and a few vinifera.

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They started their farm in 1986 with the goal of producing top-quality berries. More recently, they are aiming to decrease their carbon footprint, something that has yielded results. “In last five years,” Susan Lynn says, “there is definitely more awareness of what we are attempting to do and a greater appreciation of our efforts.” 

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“Everything we grow is used to some purpose as part of our farming operation, including baking and other processing, as well as fresh sales in our store and at local farm markets and festivals," notes Susan Lynn.

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Sand Hill Berries’ primary product: hand-picked, pre-cooled raspberries. 

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As the farm’s planted acreage increased, they were able to develop a line of products which includes jams, jellies, vinaigrettes and unique gourmet products.

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Weatherbury Farm, Avella
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Dale Tudor, 69 (left), Marcy Tudor, 73 (middle) and Nigel Tudor, 39 (right) own and operate Weatherbury farm. They produce certified organic stone ground flours, beans, rolled oats, as well as grass-fed beef and lamb.

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Weatherbury offers its customers a rather uniquely innovative experience. Each bag of flour they sell has a “grain tracker” QR code which, when scanned, will offer information on how the grain was grown, the history of the farm, the variety, and the health benefits. They note that increased consumer interest in traceability and transparency was the driver for this. 

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For Nigel Tudor, there is a sense of ethical responsibility underpinning his approach to farming. “We mill, each month, only the grains we grow, one of only a handful of farms in the USA that operate this way.  Philosophically, it seems like the right thing to do—grow wheat locally to make bread.” 

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“Our farm is certified organic," says Tudor. “That means we use no GMOs, pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, or chemical fertilizers.  We have a handful of customers who thought they were gluten intolerant but can eat products made with our flours.  We feel that they are really pesticide intolerant.”
 



Goose Creek Gardens, Cowansville
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Margie Dagnal, 65 (left), her husband Mark Dagnal, 65 (not pictured) and their daughter Kate Dagnal, 34, own and operate Goose Creek Gardens, a specialty cut flower farm in Cowansville, PA.

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They grow over 200 varieties of flowers with a main focus on ranunculus, lisianthus and dahlias.

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“Being able to do what I love, growing flowers, sharing them with people, and seeing the joy that they bring is why I farm,” Kate Dagnal says.

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Margie and Mark have been farming for over 20 years—Margie left a corporate job to start farming and follow her dream of owning her own business.  

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The farm is named for the creek that runs through its middle, and the geese that call it home. 

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“Farming is definitely a lifestyle that I enjoy very much,” Dagnal says. “Being able to have my children with me while I am working and teaching them how to farm brings me great joy.”


Jamison Farm, Latrobe
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John Jamison, 73 (left) and Sukey Jamison, 72 (right), are husband-wife owners of Jamison Farm. 

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As “children of the sixties,” the Jamisons decided to start farming in the late 1970s by raising sheep solely on grass because they thought it made more sense ecologically and economically. “There were some like-minded farmers back then, but the movement to regenerative agriculture in PA has mushroomed due to the influence of the Rodale Institute and PASA (Pennsylvania Association of Sustainable Agriculture)" says John Jamison. 

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John Jamison credits “consumer demand for clean food which has been raised in a sound ecological manner” as the main impetus for the growing sustainable agriculture community across the U.S.

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The Jamisons’ faithful companion, who they call Kate the Wonder Dog.

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The farm specializes in lamb raised on grass pastures and processed by them at their USDA Meat Plant.

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Jamison says that over the last five to ten years, organic, sustainable farming has left the fringes and become fairly mainstream, “a monumental change.” 

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Jamison hopes that their farm will inspire the next generation of farmers in Pennsylvania and other parts of the country by showing that sustainable farming methods are both profitable and better for the soil. 

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Daryln Brewer Hoffstot, Ligonier
Daryln Brewer Hoffstot is a freelance writer living in western Pennsylvania.

“I’m for Trump,” a farmer friend said to me at the Farmer’s Market. “Are you?”

“No,” I said.

Still, we greet each other in a friendly manner every Saturday morning. I buy his produce, and he shows me photographs of his grandson.

The divide is so sad, he said.

The divide is so sad.

Life is stressful for those of us on both sides who reside in the southwestern part of this “key battleground state,” and “crucial swing state,” words we hear over and over. We live near the Johnstown and Latrobe airports, where Trump recently held two large rallies, and close to the Pennsylvania Railroad tracks where Biden stopped on his whistle stop tour. And we feel the pressure. The T.V. ads. The phone calls. The mailbox bursting with political flyers. The conversations we try to keep civil. My most eye-opening conversation took place before the last election, when I stood in front of my barn speaking to a friend whose daughters used to ride horses with mine. Our chat was courteous, but we were on opposite sides. Finally, I said that she, being a religious woman, couldn’t possibly condone Trump’s behavior on that bus with Billy Bush. She looked me straight in the eye and said, “He’s not running for Pope.”

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Photographed by Caroline Tompkins

For four years, I’ve whispered with like-minded friends in the YMCA locker room. I was on a rowing machine there in 2016 listening to Clinton’s concession speech when someone came up behind me, grumbled, and changed the channel. I used my home phone to make calls for Obama and a man called back and screamed at me. When I canvassed door to door, I feared a gun would greet me on a front stoop. Last June, after sixty of us kneeled silently in the Town Square for 8:46 minutes in support of Black Lives, a car drove by and a man yelled vicious words through a car window.

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Photographed by Caroline Tompkins

I live on a farm here, raise chickens and bees, have a large vegetable and flower garden, and over thirty years have had horses, cows, goats, ducks, geese, rabbits, sheep, and a turkey. But I’m not a real farmer, not one of the many hard-working women and men from this rural part of the state who make a living tilling the soil or raising livestock. Across the rolling hills of Westmoreland County, we have 1099 farms on 44,278 acres, 98% of which are family owned, and during this election season, the political dialogue has changed somewhat--from candidates to masks, an easy and visible way to judge one’s political leanings without saying a word. When we greet each other at Agway or Tractor Supply, we now know immediately who’s on which side of the political divide. At least it’s easier to avoid those difficult conversations.

During the last election, when we still verbalized our preferences, I conducted my own small survey: a stonemason, our furnace repairman, my haircutter, among others. I asked each for whom his or her clients were voting, and the answer was almost always, “Trump.” (Only the local painter is a Democrat.) I got extra worried on election day 2016 when, at our polling place in a defunct elementary school, I saw lines much longer than usual.. On election night, my daughter felt the schism firsthand. She watched the results with her college classmates in Boston—a group of young women themselves shattered instead of Clinton’s shattered glass ceiling—while her social media lit up with cheers from her western Pennsylvania grade school classmates.

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Photographed by Caroline Tompkins

I will never trust a poll again. When I drive around, talk to people, count the lawn signs, and stay more than six feet away from the maskless, the race here doesn’t even feel close (especially because I know that since the last election Republican voter registration here has risen by 13.9%, and Democrats have lost 9.2%.) And yet once again, I sense the pundits lulling me into believing a Democrat will be victorious. I hope that is correct, but I will not be fooled this time.

On this farm, I have watched a hen brood for 21 days, witnessed peeps writhe and scream their way out of eggshells. I have seen them lie peacefully on a nest of wood shavings looking perfectly healthy, gathering strength to stand, only to die a short time afterward. I have lost more chickens than I have gained, tried in vain to save one that perished, burying it in a tiny grave. I will never again count my chickens until they are fully hatched, healthy, eating and drinking, and scooting quickly across the barn floor.

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Kananga Farm, Ligonier
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Dianne Miller, 63 (back) and Kim Miller, 65 (right), own and run Kananga Farm in Ligonier. They raise Red Devon cattle—an ancient breed that performs well on grass—and credit a combination of superior genetics and lush pastures for their “healthy and delectable beef eating experience.” 

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The big picture that the Millers always keep in mind is topsoil building.  By building topsoil they are sequestering carbon—taking carbon out of the air and putting it back in the soil. “This is a great motivator for us, this notion of serving the common good and benefitting the environment.  Regenerative agriculture, the wave of the future; maybe," says Dianne Miller. 

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“Unfortunately, we have not been able to make a living as full-time farmers. We brought outside resources to this labor of love and have expended most of those," laments Miller. "Those that are successful farming do not really farm themselves, they manage employees just like any other business.  I don’t see any model, conventional, sustainable, or regenerative that allows a family to farm and make it financially." 

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“What keeps us going is the possibility of using our land to develop younger farmers.  This year we have turned over a couple of acres to two young men who have created a vegetable farm here and hope to expand it next year.  Our payment is in great vegetables and being able to offer a hand up.”


People’s Farm, Ligonier
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Andrew Williams, 30 and Alex Halferty, 31 (not pictured) are the “two young men” that the Millers are helping support. Both grew up locally, and are in their first year operating a diversified vegetable farm specializing in salad mixes and cut greens. “I came home to farm because I wanted to grow healthy, delicious vegetables for the people I love,” Williams says. “I wanted to care for my community the way they cared for me growing up.” 

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Young farmers like Williams and Halferty are hard to find—the unforgiving lifestyle and financial insecurity being the key causes. Beyond that, "not having access to healthcare makes me question my decision to farm daily," says Williams. “I’d love to have a family and more of a ‘normal’ existence, I just don’t know if farming in these times lends itself to such things.”

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Despite this, many areas like Hudson Valley and Puget Sound have developed great communities of young, small-scale farmers who help shape the culture of the region. "One of my main goals before I die is to shift this area into the crop producing region it deserves to be," says Williams. 

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For 2021, Williams hopes that “money, weather, health don’t rob me of my job, my purpose […] and for a little help for the people who choose to make this sacrifice.”