Slip Dressing From the 1930s, 1990s, and Today

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Nadja Auermann for Chanel, spring 1998 couture Photo: Pierre Verdy / AFP via Getty Images
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A model in Reboux, 1930Illustrated by Douglas Pollard, Vogue, April 26, 1930
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Yohji Yamamoto, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Vogue proclaimed “the coming of the narrow, straight ‘slip’ silhouette” in 1934. The time of the restless flapper girl had passed, as had post-war anxiety and prohibition. The Charleston was out; Cole Porter was in. And Ginger Rogers glided across the screen with the same ease as satin slipping over the body.

When slips were revived in the post-modern 1990s, they were representative of several different trends, among them innerwear as outerwear (think: Madonna), vintage and thrift (Courtney Love), the revival of Old Hollywood glamour (Ginger, of course, and other screen goddesses like Greta Garbo and Jean Harlow); and minimalism.

Over time the slip dress has become almost synonymous with the 1990s, a focus of continued fashion fascination. The slips shown in the spring 2021 collections speak to nostalgia for that decade, but they also align with a renewed interest in loungewear, sparked by our current WFH situation. The slips that will take us into the new year offer comfort and chic, which just might be the mantra of the 2020s.

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Jil Sander, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Jil Sander
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Marion Morehouse, left, and a fellow model, both in Vionnet, 1930Photographed by Edward Steichen, Vogue, October 27, 1930
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Gabriela Hearst, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
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Sharon Wauchob, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: James Cochrane / Courtesy of Sharon Wauchob
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A Paris confection, 1930Photo: London Express / Getty Images
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Christian Dior, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
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A model in a Lanvin dress, 1931Photographed by Edward Steichen, Vogue, August 15, 1931
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Olivier Theyskens, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: CLAESSENS DESCHAMPS / Courtesy of Olivier Theyskens
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Model in a Vionnet design, 1931Photographed by George Hoyningen-Huene, Vogue, November 15, 1931
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Gertrude Lawrence in Molyneux, 1931Photographed by George Hoyningen-Huene, Vanity Fair, February 1, 1931
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Paco Rabanne, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Paco Rabanne
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Balenciaga, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga
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Helena Christensen for John Galliano, spring 1992 ready-to-wearPhoto: Guy Marineau / Conde Nast Archive
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Jean Harlow, circa 1932 Photo: John Kobal Foundation / Getty Images
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Kwaidan Editions, spring 2021 ready-to-wear

Photo: Léa Dickely / Courtesy of Kwaidan Editions
Image may contain Clothing Apparel Dress Human Person Female Evening Dress Fashion Gown Robe and Woman
Mrs. William Wetmore in a dress by Mariano Fortuny, 1935Photographed by Lusha Nelson, Vogue, December 15, 1935
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Versace, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Versace
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Bevza, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Bevza
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Model in a dress by Madeleine Vionnet, 1933Photographed by George Hoyningen-Huene, Vogue, August 15, 1933
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Jean Harlow, 1935Photo: George Hurrell / John Kobal Foundation / Getty Images
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Naomi Campbell, 1996Photo: Steve Granitz / WireImage
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Christopher Esber, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Christopher Esber
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A 1935 design by Madeleine Vionnet.Photo: Lipnitzki / Roger Viollet Collection / Getty Images
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Sportmax, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
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 Ginger Rogers in a dress by Bernard Newman, 1935Photo: Bettmann
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Proenza Schouler, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler
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Alyx, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of 1017 Alyx 9SM
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A study in style, 1937 Photographed by Lusha Nelson, Vogue, December 15, 1937
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Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, 1993Photo: Dave Benett / Getty Images
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LaQuan Smith, spring 2021 ready-to-wear

Photo: Hype Williams / Courtesy of Laquan Smith
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Claudia Schiffer for Versace, fall 1996 ready-to-wearPhoto: Guy Marineau / Conde Nast via Getty Images
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Kate Moss, 1995Photo: Time Life Pictures / DMI / The LIFE Picture Collection via Getty Images
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Jacquemus, spring 2021-ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Jacquemus
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Carla Bruni for John Galliano, spring 1995 ready-to-wearPhoto: Guy Marineau / Conde Nast via Getty Images