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Along the northern coastline of Mallorca lies the Serra de Tramuntana, a dramatic, sheer-sided mountain range that not only boasts the most spectacular scenery on the entire island, but some of the richest history in all the Balearics. There are caves and stone towers that bear traces of inhabitance from neolithic times, as well as the visible legacy of its booming medieval olive oil trade in the terraced farmlands that spill down the tumbling rock faces. And thankfully, as Mallorca transformed into a tourist capital throughout the late 20th century, this region—which is now UNESCO-protected—remained free of the overdevelopment that has affected other corners of the island, meaning a deeply atmospheric shroud of history still hangs over it.
It turns out that Richard Branson’s history with this part of Mallorca is (almost) as long and circuitous as the story of its peaks and troughs of prosperity over the centuries. In 1987, the entrepreneur stumbled upon a crumbling mansion near the village of Deià, which he transformed into La Residencia, the island’s first mega-exclusive five-star retreat that once played host to Princess Diana and is now owned and operated by Belmond. A few years later, in 1994, Branson came across another, even more spectacular property: Son Bunyola. After building two private villas on the estate, Branson spent many years attempting to transform the central farmhouse, or finca, into a hotel, but after being repeatedly denied planning permission to do so, he eventually sold the property in 2002.
In the meantime, Branson began steadily building a portfolio of luxury resorts under the Virgin Limited Edition brand—spanning island retreats in the Caribbean, safari camps in Kenya and South Africa, and a ski lodge in Switzerland—and when Son Bunyola came back on the market in 2015, he pounced. Now, after a multi-year transformation (and, yes, the granting of that planning permission), the estate has been reborn as the sprawling getaway Branson always envisioned it could one day be, consisting of 26 bedrooms and three villas available for private rental.
It’s not hard to see why Branson always thought of Son Bunyola as the one that got away. Driving to the Tramuntana from Palma airport, you’ll cross the flat suburban plains of the city’s outskirts before swooping up to the narrow roads that weave their way through its peaks, complete with plenty of hairpin bends. Once you’ve crested the top and begin winding your way down the side of the mountains that face out towards the Mediterranean, the great unveiling of the area’s epic scenery begins: red-bricked church spires poke up from the forest as clusters of perfectly preserved villages reveal themselves, while the jagged, green-and-gray topography of the mountain range rises beyond. There’s no other word for it, really, than spectacular.
A few kilometers ahead of the picturesque village of Banyalbufar lies a turning that will take you through a set of imposing gates and down a road that wriggles its way towards the coastline. From there, the breathtaking setting of Son Bunyola appears: Situated within an enormous bay, the gentle curvature of its undulating olive groves is set dramatically against the glittering azure of the Mediterranean. Right in the center of this picture postcard vista sits the estate’s crown jewel: a cream-colored finca, dating back to the 16th century and featuring two fortress-like turrets, shimmering like a mirage in the summer heat.
Make your way all the way up to its gates, though, and any illusions of having stepped back in time are quickly dispelled: The service here is as slick and efficient as it comes. You’ll be ushered through to the finca’s elegant inner courtyard—where you can have a seat on a cushioned rattan sofa surrounded by potted palms and colorful local ceramics—and then once you’ve completed the breezy check-in process, led out to the terrace for a welcome spritz or sangria. There, you’ll catch your first glimpse of the Slim Aarons-worthy 28-meter pool, fringed by striped garden parasols and with a waiter hovering in the far corner to serve sunbathing guests their afternoon refreshments.
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When it comes time to check into your room or suite (assuming you’re able to pull yourself away from that view for a minute), you’ll either be heading up to one of the rooms in the main house itself—all featuring unique layouts and filled with idiosyncratic architectural details; bonus points if you manage to snag the suite with a living area in the turret and private access to take in the views from the top—or over to the adjoining “tafona” wing, which houses the property’s historic olive press. The interiors channel a spirit of deluxe simplicity, with subtle nods to Mallorcan traditions (terracotta flooring, limewash paint, wooden window shutters) rendered sleeker and more contemporary, and a palette of deep blues and ochre reds that nods to the surrounding landscape; the emphasis here is firmly on bringing the outside in, and vice versa. If you choose to do nothing but laze on your bed in the middle of a baking hot afternoon, with just the sound of wind rustling through the olive trees and the distant bleat of a goat, that’s very much part of the intended experience.
As delightful as all this might be—and that’s without even mentioning the small but perfectly formed spa, where you can enjoy massages and facials using local, organic products—the real magic of Son Bunyola lies in its spirit of adventure. (Branson is not exactly known for shying away from daredevil exploits, after all.) The Serra de Tramuntana is a hiker’s paradise, with the region’s best-known trail, the GR221, running straight through the property, while both mountain bikes and e-bikes—depending on your threshold for burning thighs—are available for those looking to explore the 1,300-acre estate and beyond on wheels. If it’s something more leisurely you’re after, on the other hand, the staff will happily whizz you down in a golf buggy to the impossibly scenic tennis court for a pre-breakfast knock around, or share the timetable for the complimentary yoga sessions on the lawn overlooking the olive groves, or arrange paddleboarding classes down at the private beach to explore the coves and lagoons that dot the nearby shoreline.
Of course, amid all these activities you’re likely to work up an appetite—an eventuality that the hotel very much has covered. Chef Samuel G. Galdón’s farm-to-table approach means the culinary offerings are as fresh as they come, with the hotel’s star restaurant Sa Terrassa featuring a seasonal tasting menu that, when this writer traveled there in July, included a gorgeously fragrant seafood paella and chargrilled Iberian pork. (Son Bunyola’s sustainability credentials also include zero plastics, recycling wastewater to irrigate the gardens, and an extensive tree replanting program.) A second restaurant serving tapas, Sa Tafona, is set to open soon, along with a boutique selling local hand-crafted wares; it turns out that, in what is certainly the first instance anyone has heard of post-pandemic, the hotel was actually able to open ahead of schedule this summer.
Everything Son Bunyola has to offer, though—the food, the outdoor activities, the opportunity to tune out from the world in this sleepy, spellbinding corner of the Mediterranean—is underlined by that view. As cocktail hour approaches, the sun begins to disappear behind an eddy of evening cloud and the terrace is bathed in the honey-colored light so particular to this part of the world. It becomes clear, once again, why Branson always held out hope he might reclaim this slice of paradise: It may have been nearly three decades since he first came across the property, but its most exciting chapter is only just beginning.
Booking details for Son Bunyola:
Amenities: Swimming pool, two restaurants, tennis and pickleball courts, private beach, mountain bikes, e-bikes, complimentary yoga sessions, spa treatment rooms
Address: Ctra. C, 710, 83km, 07191 Banyalbufar, Illes Balears, Spain
