Today’s ‘luxury face’ can cost anywhere from £7,200 to £250,000, but the idea is that no one will be able to tell you paid for it.
Plastic surgery is advancing to enable ‘undetectable’ work that enhances natural features, without looking like any work was actually done. Lindsay Lohan, Demi Moore and Christina Aguilera are said to be at the centre of this trend — though of course, they’re not telling.
Better treatments, and the skilled surgeons who perform them, are on the rise. As ‘filler face’ fatigue continues to set in, those who may have been previously turned off by these treatments are beginning to reconsider. “There is undoubtedly a rise in subtle, natural-looking cosmetic procedures, with the focus shifting from transformation to enhancement,” says Dr Shaimaa Jamshidi, founder and plastic surgeon at London’s Montrose Clinic. That means more investment from consumers as well. “There’s a growing emphasis on selfcare and sophistication, with wellness and aesthetics treatments becoming larger line items in the discretionary spending budget,” says Ida Banek, founder and CEO of Ouronyx Clinic in London.
Experts say they don’t see this cannibalising other luxury markets, but that it will contribute to an overall increase in spending. “Individuals with means are increasingly willing to direct resources towards sophistication, focusing on treatments that help them feel and look their best,” says Banek. Shaimaa agrees, highlighting that these aesthetic treatments — though costly and reoccurring — are increasingly now seen as essential investments in maintaining a natural-looking, younger appearance.
While awareness of this look has filtered into the mainstream, consumers are unlikely to have access to the wealthy’s black book of doctors. That means that the industry as a whole will be expected to perform at a higher skill level, likely raising prices across the board. Lisa Payne, head of beauty at global trends forecasting agency Stylus, says: “The intrigue and excitement surrounding this age-defying look will generate extremely high expectations of cosmetic surgeons and the aesthetics market. Modern, natural injectables, skin treatments and procedures will continue to rise, redefining aesthetics as we know it.”
For the beauty industry, experts say this means we’ll see growing demand for advanced, high-cost cosmetic treatments. For practitioners, it illustrates an opportunity for premium treatment packages, whereas consumer interest could lead to innovation in new device technologies that answer to the trend. At a mass level, brands can expect consumers to turn to the beauty shelves in search of more potent product-adjacent formulas that can offer similar results.
Achieving the new luxury face
The mix of treatments driving the ‘undetectable’ treatment menu includes: polynucleotides, skin boosters like Profhilo and Sunekos (which stimulate skin proteins), collagen biostimulators, lasers (Coolaser and CO2 for rejuvenation), and dermal fillers using the patient’s fat for volume restoration (for example, facial fat grafting and Renuva) instead of hyaluronic acid alone. Energy-based treatments such as Sofwave tighten skin and reduce wrinkles, while singular botox or filler sessions, costing between £400 and £500 are waning in popularity.
From a surgical perspective, deep plane face and neck lifts have become increasingly sought after, says Dr Sophie Shotter, aesthetic expert, with prices starting at £25,000 in the UK and reaching $250,000 in markets like the US. Dr Thivos Sokratous, aesthetic doctor at Ouronyx, emphasises how doctors are leaning on combination therapies to achieve the new luxury face. “We’re layering sophisticated injectables like muscle modulators, biostimulators and next-gen dermal fillers with energy-based devices to boost collagen, refine texture and restore volume without broadcasting that anything has been done,” he says. Prices for these treatments start at £600 per session and can reach £4,000 depending on the product and treatment areas.
Dr Simon Ourian, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist and co-founder of eponymous skincare brand Simon Ourian MD, whose client roster includes Kris Jenner, Kim Kardashian and Zoe Saldana, notes similar prices. “A small, localised area (like the cheeks or forehead) can now cost a few thousand dollars, while a full non-surgical facelift (combining Neustem technology with micromatrix treatments) could go up to $100,000 or more,” he says.
As for consumers intrigued about what muses like Lohan and Moore have done, Ourian speculates that their results (alongside many celebrities on the Hollywood circuit) come down to a blend of stem-cell rejuvenation treatments to improve elasticity and reduce wrinkles (costing between $5,000 and $50,000); micromatrix treatments, known for improving skin texture with a per-session price tag of $1,500 to $2,000; and advanced Coolaser procedures, costing upwards of $2,000 a session. Experts say filler dissolution and weight management approaches for some are also a consideration for offering celebrities a clean slate.
While the undetectable aesthetic appeals to a discerning clientele, its exclusivity and price tag poses challenges. “These treatments are elite and create defined boundaries between consumer groups — those who can afford the subtle look and those sticking to old-guard aesthetics,” says Payne. Financial constraints have already materialised as a pattern that has impacted the market; Teoxane, a skincare and dermal filler provider, revealed in its 2024 Age of Wellness report that 43 per cent of UK consumers surveyed reduced their spending on dermal fillers and 30 per cent removed them from their budget altogether, instead considering it a luxury. “Inclusivity remains a key challenge. Not everyone has the disposable income to prioritise these aesthetics,” says UK-based plastic surgeon Naveen Cavale.
The price barrier also raises concerns about consumer safety. “Top-quality treatments don’t come cheap and aren’t about to become more affordable,” warns Dr Sophie Shotter, founder of Illuminate Skin Clinic in London. “Without proper regulation, consumers may turn to underqualified practitioners or cheaper, unsafe options abroad.” Experts like Ouronyx’s Thivos advocate for flexible payment models, such as subscription-based treatments or quarterly regimens, to make high-quality care more accessible. He also sees pressure easing from monthly to quarterly treatments to help spread the cost. “Rather than isolating any groups, the industry is also evolving towards flexibility allowing clients to adopt regimens that suit both budgets and comfort levels.”
Innovations on the horizon
Despite the cost hurdle, the undetectable aesthetic is expected to drive innovation within the skincare market at a more accessible price point.
“Skincare must align with the undetectable advancements to offer both luxury results and affordability,” Ourian says. Julien Levy, co-founder and CEO of Swiss cosmeceutical brand Dr Levy Switzerland, agrees: “The luxury face movement in skincare will reject a plain formulation or results and instead demands for ingredients to be more powerful and effective without causing damage to the skin. The ingredients (and brands) that achieve this objective, will be the ones that will win over the consumers.” Both brands plan to lean in and leverage the undetectable aesthetic demand in their skincare launches this year.
Breakthroughs in growth factors (hormones or proteins that bind to skin cells to regulate cellular rejuvenation) and mini proteins are also making waves, offering filler-like effects without invasive procedures. “They [growth factors and mini proteins] can address lasting firmness, collagen production, elasticity and long-term skin structural renewal without procedures,” explains Medik8 founding partner and chief product officer Daniel Isaacs. Facialist Joanne Evans predicts the rise of alternatives to traditional retinol — and its derivative vitamin A — such as polynucleotides, exosomes and at-home devices that address texture, quality and volume concerns for cost-conscious consumers. She adds: “We’re realising, vitamin A and retinol are not a fix-all to pro-ageing skincare. There is so much more to consider.”
Payne anticipates the evolution of treatments like platelet-rich plasma (PRP) and platelet-rich fibrin (PRF), which volumises skin using the patient’s blood. Dr Catherine Chang, Beverly Hills board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon and founder of Privé Beverly Hills clinic and skincare brand Naked Beauty MD, foresees demand for custom facelifts, including personalised 3D facial implants tailored to individual anatomy for a one-time, lifelong solution.
“As life expectancy increases and perspectives on ageing evolve, we see a growing willingness from consumers to invest in one’s well-being rather than purely in status symbols. These undetectable treatments offer a sense of quiet empowerment, while subtly refreshing how consumers appear. It’s a gentle yet powerful shift, and one we believe will continue to grow,” Dr Thivos concludes.
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