“You can actually mix and match colors on top of each other to create an entirely new combination, rather than have to only choose one thing,” said one designer during the fall 2026 shows in New York. “Each one of these things can be almost like an accessory,” said another, gesturing toward a rolling rack of dresses, blouses, and jackets. Both emphasized the multifunctional, endless-combination potential of their pieces. It was a puzzling sentiment considering that clothing, not accessories, tends to be the main event, and yet it’s all part of new-wave prep’s great revival. Call it the small plates–ification of American sportswear.
Any New Yorker who enjoys dining out remembers the small-plates craze of recent years. Seemingly overnight, an abundance of buzzy new places had discovered the idea of tapas. Instead of antisocially sinking your teeth into your main, a patchwork-tattooed waiter (probably in Williamsburg, asking: “So have you dined with us before?”) would recommend three to five shared dishes (cue said waiter: “We can check back in later to see if you’re still hungry”), and a less rigid ritual took place. Our clothing is now doing the same.
When Michael Rider presented his debut vision for Celine last July, many immediately pointed to the overt styling. Rider injected the French house with a fresh bout of his Polo Ralph Lauren–certified prep, layering necklaces upon scarves upon blazers upon cardigans—which themselves were sometimes worn as scarves and necklaces. It was a tempting display for those who order the whole menu. At Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner was up to something similar, clashing prints in the house’s signature aesthetic cacophony. Back here in New York, an emerging label called Lii was carving its own path. The 2026 LVMH Prize semifinalist Zane Li has spent the last few seasons developing his own futuristic take on the layering scheme, filling his collections with bold color blocking and paper-doll silhouettes that challenge the eye.
The New York fall 2026 season continued in this vein. Tory Burch pivoted from the kooky runway pieces that drove the Tory-ssance to highlight the familial familiarity of prep instead. Corduroys (borrowed from her father), Peter Pan–collar button-ups, and crewnecks offered a formula instead of a specific answer. Eckhaus Latta did its own cool version; with them, a striped polo shirt is never just a polo shirt. It’s backless too! It’s also likely why some brands that rebuffed this stylistic path felt so static in comparison. The idea of an unchangeable silhouette suddenly took on a heavy feel.
Maybe we can attribute this small plates–ification to the fashion industry’s continued flux. In the last two seasons, we have witnessed about a dozen and a half designer debuts, many of whom layered their new ideas over their predecessor’s, and more debuts are in the offing in Milan and Paris. Plus, discussions about style remain more ubiquitous than ever. No one wants to stare longingly at a friend’s dish while you sink your teeth into a lonely main, especially when we are so flush with choice. Instead, a more casual ebb and flow—one that leaves room for a buildable style progression—is taking place. For grazing luxury consumers, the idea of a Swiss Army knife of a merino-wool long-sleeve becomes all the more appealing compared to an inflexible statement jacket. Waiter, we’d like to try the orange wine, please!
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