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Two and a half years ago, Vogue Business published a story titled ‘Why menswear is falling behind on size inclusivity’, our first size inclusivity report that tracked plus-size, mid-size and straight-size representation across the menswear shows in Milan and Paris. At the time, eight out of the 69 shows included at least one plus-size model (EU 56+), while 22 featured mid-size talent (EU 48-54).
This season, only four shows included at least one plus-size model, and just nine brands featured mid-size representation.
Of 69 shows across the Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear season, only eight featured plus-size models, exclusive research by Vogue Business shows. Brands still view size inclusivity as a commercial risk, experts say.
This backslide points to a bigger trend in the fashion industry, which is seeing a backtrack in diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI) initiatives as well as a rise of conservative values, and, with that, thinner beauty ideals, which are now more attainable via GLP-1 medications like Ozempic. All of this has led to a decline in plus and mid-size representation on the runways. “The tokenistic wave we saw from 2020 to 2023 — with a few faces booked to tick a box — feels like it’s passed. And rather than embedding real change, it’s become clear that it was a trend. A moment, not a movement,” says plus-size model James Corbin.
Vogue Business assessed the 65 Spring/Summer 2026 menswear shows and presentations using image catalogues published on Vogue Runway, and contacted each brand to verify the findings (brands were given 48 hours to respond). Out of 2,759 looks across Milan and Paris, only 0.3 per cent were shown on plus-size models, the same as last season. Mid-size looks shrank from 4.8 to 1.2 per cent, while straight-size looks increased from 94.9 to 98.5 per cent. In previous menswear seasons, mid-size looks have largely been accounted for by more muscular talent, but even that seems to have dipped.
There was no size inclusivity at all in Milan. Usually, Luca Magliano is one of the few designers to include a wider range of body types, but the brand presented a film at Milan Fashion Week instead of a show (the brand was not included in the data collection as we only count shows and presentations, but it did feature some mid-size models). Last season, 92.4 per cent of looks in Milan were straight-size with 7.4 per cent mid-size and 0.1 per cent plus-size.
In Paris, 97.7 per cent of looks were shown on straight-size models, with 1.8 per cent of looks on mid-size models and plus-size looks making up 0.5 per cent. Last season, straight-size looks counted for 94.9 per cent of the runways, mid-size looks accounted for 4.8 per cent and plus-size looks totalled 0.3 per cent.
Acne Studios ranked top for size diversity this season, with six out of 26 looks represented on mid-size models. Feng Chen Wang came second, with six out of 28 looks presented on mid-size models, primarily those with muscular body types, as the designer cast sports stars this season. Y-3 ranked third, with five of 35 looks on mid-size models.
The only brands to present any looks on plus-size models were Willy Chavarria (three plus-size looks out of 73), 3.Paradis (one out of 33), Doublet (two out of 40) and LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi (three out of 36).
Plus-size male models say they’ve noticed the reversal. “I know several plus-size male models who’ve been let go or quietly removed from boards, and I’ve experienced a noticeable dip in bookings myself,” says Corbin. “These numbers aren’t just disappointing — they’re deliberate. You can’t tell me the talent isn’t there.” With fewer opportunities in front of the camera, a lot of Corbin’s work has shifted behind the scenes in the form of consulting, or using his platform to speak about inclusivity, he says.
While brands have taken a step back, Corbin says he still sees a demand for plus-size representation, particularly on social media. “That presence online proves the demand is there, but high fashion continues to resist that reality,” he adds. “The demand for inclusion has always existed. It’s just been ignored. And now, consumers are noticing. TikToks are going viral of plus-size men asking, ‘Where are the male models that look like me?’ These creators are holding the industry accountable in real time, and it’s powerful.”
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