If London’s fall 2000 Fashion Week was all about new talents, Milan’s was mostly about long established brands who spoke to youth mainly through their diffusion lines. There was a dramatic divide, too, between day and evening clothing, and most shows ended with some sparkle. Giorgio Armani, for example, opened with tailoring and concluded with beaded pieces that felt as light as air. The finale at Missoni featured Lurex-shiny knits; and at Gianfranco Ferré gala dressing, as Vogue’s reviewer noted, had a couture touch. (From 1989-1996 he designed 15 couture collections for Dior.)
The slip dress continued its reign. Narciso Rodriguez, then showing in Milan, combined satin lingerie dressing with menswear fabrics for contrast. At Genny, Josephus Thimister preferred a waft of chiffon. There were boudoir touches at Prada as well, mixed in with the main 1940s mood. Other time travelers were Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who offered a bling-y take on the 1970s. Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and Tom Ford at Gucci leaned into the 1960s. Whatever the inflection, in the main Milan was still designing for a lady, although the vamp was starting to make some inroads thanks largely to Ford and Donatella Versace.
