With the launch of Tom Ford Beauty’s 133rd fragrance iteration — a men’s fragrance called Bois Pacifique — the brand is pivoting. Rather than leaning into its ‘sex sells’ marketing slant, made famous by its popular Vanilla Sex, Lost Cherry and Black Orchid scents, it’s taking cues from the wellness industry.
Bois Pacifique, crafted with notes of sandalwood, cedar and oakwood, is inspired by Big Sur. Actor John David Washington, son of Denzel Washington, has been tapped as its ambassador in a campaign set to debut on 9 January. The approach to the campaign had nothing to do with sex or seduction, as is typical for founder Tom Ford’s fragrances, but rather “the pursuit of inner peace” as Washington puts it. He’s the brand’s second-ever male celebrity ambassador, after Joe Alwyn.
The launch is part of a bigger push to brighten up the brand’s approach to fragrance, in alignment with what customers today are interested in: health, wellness and well-being, says Guillaume Jesel, CEO and president of the Tom Ford brand (including beauty, fashion and eyewear). “We’re aligning with a zeitgeist that values emotional connection, spirituality and selfcare,” explains Jesel. And they’re betting that will sell as much as sex: the Bois Pacifique fragrance alone is projected to pull $50 million in sales in its first year, per company sources.
Tom Ford Beauty was acquired by Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) in November 2022 for $2.8 billion; upon acquisition, it was forecasted that Tom Ford Beauty would reach $1 billion in annual net sales by the end of 2024, per ELC. Net sales for the brand’s fragrance business have more than doubled since 2020, with half of that revenue originating from male consumers, according to Tom Ford Beauty.
What’s also notable about Bois Pacifique is how it was created: even the most discerning noses might not pick up that one note, akigalawood, which was constructed using biotechnology methods. Akigalawood is a fragrance molecule developed using a fermented biotechnology process as a substitution for the extraction of agarwood, which is often overexploited. Artificial intelligence was also an influence. Tom Ford Beauty VP of global fragrance development Helen Murphy collaborated with perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux and fragrance developer Givaudan’s proprietary AI tool, Carto, to develop it. The tech uses a digital odour value map to blend ingredients aligned with the perfume’s brief — in this case, a blend of wood-based notes inspired by California’s Big Sur.
While ELC has been experimenting with integrating AI into its business strategy, it marks the first time an AI-influenced formula is getting the big rollout.
I spoke with Jesel ahead of the fragrance launch to discuss the role of AI, how the brand has evolved with the shifting scent landscape and what’s in store for 2025.
Vogue: Tell me about Bois Pacifique and how it connects to the current fragrance market.
The fragrance market has undergone a remarkable shift post-pandemic. Consumers are increasingly turning to fragrances to achieve a sense of inner calm and escapism. With Bois Pacifique, we’re channelling those ideas. The scent continues from two important aspects of our fragrance DNA: Ford s connection to the rugged American West, as seen in Ombré Leather, and the physical pursuit of serenity found in our Soleil range.
Vogue: Bois Pacifique is positioned as a men’s fragrance — how does gender play into the strategy?
While Bois Pacifique is marketed towards men due to its woodier profile and with Washington as its ambassador, I see consumers crossing traditional gender boundaries more than ever. Noir, which is positioned as a men’s scent, sees approximately 40 per cent of its sales coming from women. On the flip side, Black Orchid, originally positioned for women, is now a near-even split between genders depending on the market. Fragrance is not about gender anymore; it’s about the story and the scent profile that resonates with the individual. The same goes for our makeup line — our Traceless Soft Matte Concealer has become a top seller among men in markets like Asia.
Vogue: What other consumer behaviours have influenced the trajectory of the business?
Gen Z has transformed the way we think about fragrance. They’re experimenting, layering scents and sharing honest reviews on TikTok and YouTube, which has built a whole new sense of discovery. We’ve responded by introducing accessible formats — like the 50ml bottle of Bois Pacifique priced at $160 — and positioned them as an online recruitment vehicle. These smaller sizes let younger consumers explore without committing to the 100ml bottles right away. They’ve also been a key tool for attracting online shoppers who increasingly see fragrance as part of their self-expression.
Vogue: Could AI take over fragrance creation?
There are fewer noses in prestige scent development than there are astronauts, so this is not to diminish the talent. AI is just a tool — it doesn’t replace human creativity. AI, however, allows perfumers to look at different combinations of ingredients in a course. The technology is not instant, we still went through 30 to 40 iterations until we reached the one that we’re happy with to launch.
Vogue: The beauty industry has seen a shift towards influencer ambassadorships, but you’ve remained steadfast in working with celebrity ambassadors like Washington, Alywn and Angelina Jolie. Why?
It’s about alignment. For products like Bois Pacifique or our lip category, which sit within our signature collection and are sold in unassisted speciality environments, celebrity ambassadors amplify brand equity and drive awareness. Washington and Angelina each bring a depth that reflects the sophistication of the brand. That said, we remain selective and so should brands at large. The ambassador has to embody the brand’s DNA — otherwise, the message won’t resonate authentically.
Vogue: You’ve had to navigate a few in-house changes since coming on board as CEO and president. What has that looked like?
It’s been an interesting journey. I first met Tom in 2005, so while my current tenure as CEO has been just 20 months, it feels like 20 years. Between that time, I was at Mac Cosmetics as head of marketing until Tom called me back in 2014 to lead Tom Ford Beauty ahead of the brand’s acquisition. So, technically, I’ve spent over a decade leading some aspects of the brand. When I stepped into the role amid the acquisition, I was comforted by the fact stability was the main priority. Key license partnerships, like Zegna Group for fashion, Marcolin Group for eyewear and Estée Lauder Companies as the owner of both the Tom Ford brand and Tom Ford Beauty, remained critical to maintaining that foundation.
One of the most significant decisions this year was appointing Haider Ackermann as creative director — a choice both Tom and I deeply believe in. Haider is a visionary and truly understands how to take the brand into its next chapter. His first collection, which will debut at Paris Fashion Week, marks a new milestone for the brand. It’s our first show in Paris, and we’re incredibly excited. This will undoubtedly be a major focus for the overarching business as we look to 2025.
Vogue: What can we expect from Tom Ford Beauty next year?
You’ll see more innovation in makeup and fragrance. We’re expanding our complexion offerings and introducing recruitment-friendly formats to ensure accessibility for younger consumers. Haider’s debut collection will also create an opportunity to reimagine the runway makeup franchise.
This article has been updated.
Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
