Sex, drugs, black leather, techno. For many, that’s what comes to mind when defining Berlin style.
And that’s true in many cases: Berlin has a history of being one of the more affordable European cities for artists and musicians, thanks to government arts funding. As a hotbed for creative people, the German capital has always fostered prominent fashion styles.
The punk aesthetic has played a large role. It dates back to the ban of punks and punk rock from public spaces in East Berlin in the 1980s, which had something of an unintended effect: the subculture (unsurprisingly) became even more attractive to young people. After the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, rave culture flourished as a reaction against the system, and the rise of sex clubs in Berlin in the ’90s popularised fetishwear and bikerwear.
Berlin style is equally anti-authority and practical. Against the backdrop of a tense political environment in Germany, that same rebellious energy can be felt through the city.
Nevertheless, there are many exceptions to the stereotypical Berlin look, and the way people dress can hugely differ depending on the neighbourhood. Vogue Business asked the Berlin fashion community to define Berlin style today.
Jacob Langemeyer, co-founder and brand manager of SF1OG
I would describe Berlin style as very free because people can do whatever they want here without being looked down upon. Subcultures are big in Berlin. People are picturing the all-black outfits people wear to queue up at Berghain — and I’m even wearing all black now and we showed our collection in Berghain! But we’re not from the typical techno community, and there are other subcultures in Berlin.
The political situation is really tough in Germany. On one hand, people are going for very conservative and quiet luxury looks, towards the safe side. But there are also people being rebellious.
Mumi Haiati, founder and CEO of Reference Studios
Berlin is really the place where ‘normcore’ and ‘gorpcore’ meet grunge and club kid vibes. There is no radical evolution [to how people are dressing at the moment with current] social, cultural or political changes, but there are nuances.
Odély Teboul, founder and designer of Lou de Bètoly
I find there are very different styles in Berlin and also every district is very different. But I’d describe Berlin style as Matrix-meets-2000s-Paris-Hilton.
Christiane Arp, chairwoman of Fashion Council Germany and former Vogue Germany editor
I think Berlin style can also be really feminine. We have a lot of female designers like Lou de Bètoly or Horror Vacui, [who create very delicate designs]. So I think the Berlin vibe is becoming more feminine in a way.
Kerstin Weng, head of editorial content at Vogue Germany
There is for sure this appreciation of the techno aesthetic is definitely at Berlin’s core, being the homeland of the Love Parade [electronic music festival] and rave culture. You can see it and feel it in Berlin. Nevertheless, there are other sides that are here and you can see a lot of variety and especially a huge love of craftsmanship and thoughtful details in garments.
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