Does At-Home Microneedling Really Work? Experts Weigh In

Microneedling works by creating tiny injuries in the skin via equally tiny needles, which stimulates new collagen and elastin production, says board-certified physician associate Lisa Chevalier, PA-C. “Overall, microneedling is a very effective way to remodel and strengthen the skin without the downtime of more aggressive procedures for those desiring improvement in fine lines, scars, texture, pores, tone, and general skin quality,” she says. “When combined with topical treatments, the can amplify the absorption of products by creating micro-channels deeper into the skin,” adds Dr. Azizzadeh.

Microneedling is generally safe when performed by a skilled provider, but if it’s DIYed, the risks heighten. These include infection from improper hygiene techniques, irritation from deep penetration of active ingredients, scarring, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). These issues—including raised (hypertrophic) scars or “train-track” marks—are typically caused by using needles that are too deep or using an overly aggressive technique, says Dr. Azizzadeh, especially in those with deeper complexions.

It’s also worth noting that a microneedling device isn’t necessarily safe solely because it can be easily purchased from a top retailer. “Home-use microneedling pens with greater than 0.3mm depths pose significant risks not only because of how they affect the skin, but also because of how they reach consumers,” explains Chevalier. Most of these deeper-penetrating devices are produced overseas with questionable sterility and manufacturing quality, further increasing risk. And, because of how deeply they can penetrate the skin, they’re actually technically medical devices intended to be used only by trained professionals. “Unsafe devices slip through loopholes by avoiding explicit medical claims,” adds Chevalier. Use these types of devices only at your own risk.

To further reduce your risk of infection and other side effects from microneedling, either limit your treatments to those administered by professionals or use the gentlest, highest-quality tool possible at home, and following proper hygiene practices and treatment techniques (which we’ll outline below).

Choose the right products post-procedure to reduce side effects: “Using the wrong products afterwards can also cause inflammation or even allergic reactions because the skin is more permeable,” says Chevalier. For at least two days after your treatment, avoid active ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and retinol in favor of mild, skin-barrier supporting products as your skin recovers.

Recovery from microneedling, especially at-home treatments, tends to be mild. “Most people look pink and feel warm or tight for the first several hours, similar to a sunburn,” says Chevalier. Over the next two days, skin might feel tight, dry, or slightly sensitive, with possible flakiness from the accelerated cellular turnover. “I recommend avoiding sun exposure, makeup, and non-prescribed skin treatments for the first two days of recovery to prevent irritation and delayed healing,” says Dr. Azizzadeh. (Mineral SPF is okay once the redness subsides, usually within 24 hours.) He also recommends taking a break from working out while skin recovers, “as sweating can clog pores and cause infection,” he says. By the end of the week, skin will look smoother and brighter.

If you get an in-office microneedling treatment, especially with added radiofrequency, the recovery process will be more intense—in addition to the heat energy, the needles of a professional device penetrate far more deeply into the skin than an at-home dermaroller, resulting in a far more aggressive treatment. That sunburn effect may last for several days (and look more extreme) with a professional treatment, and you may experience inflammation, tenderness, and bruising. That said, you’ll be able to conceal any temporary discoloration with makeup—ideally clean and mineral-based products—two days after your treatment.

No matter which form of microneedling you go with, let your skin be your guide. So long as your skin feels tender or sensitive, use gentle products. In addition to avoiding workouts, skip the sauna, steam room, and hot showers. That excess heat can exacerbate flushing and slow down recovery.

The difference between an at-home treatment and one administered by a professional is substantial. “If you’re just looking for a little bit of maintenance and improved skin appearance, an at-home device can be a good option,” says Dr. Azizzadeh. But those who want dramatic improvement to issues like acne scars, deep-set wrinkles, and skin laxity will need to see a professional. “In the office, we use medical-grade FDA-approved devices with sterile, single-use tips, and motorized needling that enters and exits the skin cleanly,” explains Chevalier. “We can work to a depth of about 2.5 mm depending on the area, which is what allows us to treat deeper concerns.”

At home, the safe limit of microneedling is a depth of about 0.3 mm—just enough to help with product absorption and skin texture, says Dr. Azizzadeh. Anything that goes deeper can penetrate the dermis. These are considered Class II medical devices, which are meant to be used by licensed professionals, per Chevalier. “These are not recommended for at-home consumer use because the risk of scarring, pigment issues, and infection is simply too high,” she warns. A skilled practitioner can safely navigate treatment of a variety of skin types and tones, different needle depths, and the incorporation of additional technology, like radiofrequency.

This is not the moment to be thrifty—you want to buy a product from a reputable brand that comes in a sealed, sterile package to protect the tool, which should have medical-grade steel or titanium needles, according to Chevalier. “Cheap rollers often have uneven or dull needles, which can tear the skin and leave permanent scarring,” she explains.

You’ll also want to think about the results you want to achieve from your at-home treatment. While longer needles can provide more dramatic results and deeper product penetration, they also significantly increase potential risks of scarring, discoloration, or infection, says Azizzadeh. We’d recommend starting with a tool that features the shortest needles you can find and see how your skin tolerates it. Remember: the deeper the product penetration and more dramatic the results, the higher the potential risks.

You’ll want to plan ahead of microneedling to ensure your skin will be as resilient and comfortable as possible going into your treatment. Avoid sun exposure and waxing the week of your treatment, and stop using retinoids, physical and chemical exfoliants, and actives like benzoyl peroxide within three days of the treatment. You’ll also want to wait for any breakouts, wounds, or rashes to clear up. “Microneedling punctures your skin, leaving tiny open wounds that can be susceptible to infection and irritation,” explains Dr. Azizzadeh. “Do not start a microneedling or dermarolling treatment if you have any wounds or active acne in the area.”

Good hygiene is essential when DIYing a microneedling treatment: Always start by properly disinfecting your tool before use. At minimum, you can do this by soaking it in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes, but ideally you’ll use Barbicide or boiling water for thorough sanitizing, ensuring the needles are not just sterile, but intact, Chevalier explains.

Your skin should be thoroughly cleansed, too. Dr. Azizzadeh recommends using a gentle cleanser; avoid anything with potent actives like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid to further minimize risk of irritation. While microneedling can certainly support the deeper penetration of topical products, your skin should be bare ahead of treatment. “You should not needle over skin-care products,” says Chevalier, who recommends prepping your skin right before you begin with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol to lower bacterial count.

Now, start passing the tool over your skin using light pressure; according to Chevalier, it should never drag. Move in straight, controlled lines using vertical, horizontal, and finally diagonal movements to get full, even coverage—avoiding the area around the eyes. “You want to lift the device completely between each pass to avoid scratching or tearing the skin,” Chevalier adds. The whole treatment should be quick and gentle; if you see any pinpricks of blood at all, your device is going too deeply and you should be using a tool with shallower needles. Once you’re done microneedling, you can rinse your skin with water—your tool with alcohol—and use ultra-gentle skincare products. Superficial treatments can safely be followed with simple formulas containing ingredients that support skin barrier health, recovery, and collagen production like snow mushroom, cica, peptides, and PDRN. With deeper treatment, you’ll want to use products that are specifically proven safe to be used immediately after ablative procedures, like Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar. If redness, tenderness, and skin sensitivities subside, you can proceed with your usual skin-care routine 72 hours post-microneedling.

• Dr. Babak Azizzadeh is a board-certified facial plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills.
• Lisa Chevalier, M.M.S., PA-C is the founder of SoVous Medical Spa and Laser Center in New York City.