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Indie fashion brands, finding that their customers are craving connection offline, are setting up shop in artist studios, gyms, coffee shops, studio spaces, bars and restaurants — anywhere outside of the home and the workplace where people gather to dwell.
Those ‘third places’ are serving as backdrops for intimate and personal pop-ups and events that encourage community building and something deeper than a typical store experience. Crucially, they are also giving brand founders — many of whom launched their companies on social media — a way to establish a physical presence and connect with consumers without investing in a store front.
Coined by American sociologist Ray Oldenburg in his 1989 book The Great Good Place, third places were originally defined as a “neutral ground to which access is granted regardless of any prerequisite, personal interests or social ranking”, says Louise Yems, strategy director at creative agency The Digital Fairy.
According to Yems, due to the neglect and active closure of physical third places, accelerated by Covid, coupled with the ubiquity of social media in our lives, the online world began to occupy the role of third space. Now, third places are re-emerging in real life, anchored by specific individual passions. “Much like subcultures of the past, proof of membership is signalled by external self-expression,” Yems says. People want community and connection, plus with the rise of hobbyism, more people are partaking in activities that take them to new spaces.
For brands, showing up in third places means seeking out already curated events where people are gathering, or organising pop-ups and markets at bars and restaurants, to tap into the renewed interest in alternative, physical spaces that double as places where hobbies and fashion can coexist. It takes the pop-up concept to the next level: rather than compelling customers to seek out your space, you’re showing up in theirs. That said, brands need to be mindful that they’re not disrupting what makes third places special to start with.
“People are craving unique experiences,” says Shelly Horst, co-founder of accessories brand Room Shop. “If they can go to a special event where there are built-in things to do and see, it takes the pressure off going somewhere where you absolutely have to spend money.” The brand has taken to hosting open studios along with other brands in its office building, which Horst says always teems with activity, inviting visitors to chat with shop owners and other guests.
Third places in practice
Olivia LaRossa, founder of Junkyard Thrift, doesn’t have a physical storefront and she loves the flexibility it offers her — on weekdays, she sources inventory, shoots web drops, and supports clients. She hosts pop-ups at third places like restaurants and bars along with her studio space, where she’s hosted a writer’s workshop and tea parties. “Third places are so hard to come by these days, especially in NYC,” she explains. “I think tapping into our desire to connect with others is the perfect way to utilise them. I love hosting events that aren’t necessarily sales driven — I find joy in facilitating a welcoming environment for people.”
Prior to having a private studio space, Nik Pollina, founder of secondhand stores Seven Moods and Thx It’s Thrifted, did pop-up events for a year in third places. “It provided me with a lower-cost, lower-time commitment way to test the waters of selling vintage and secondhand pieces,” she tells Vogue Business. Drawing inspiration from that, she now has a space in Brooklyn, which is distinct from a typical storefront because it’s a studio and isn’t on the ground floor — the space is exclusively open for appointments and pop-ups. “I really believe that people are starting to get fatigued with being online 24-7,” Pollina says.
Popping up at different spaces like bars and markets, allows Bluegreen Accessories the freedom to choose where and when brand founder Chelsea Crist wants to sell. “This means lots of exposure for my brand and chances to make genuine connections with market-goers and other small businesses,” Crist explains. Plus, shoppers feel more of a sense of urgency to buy items that are for sale, since it feels more like a fleeting opportunity.
All three brands say third places are profitable for them. During a recent pop-up event, Pollina made over $2,500 in one weekend, which is $1,500 more than a normal weekend. Junkyard Thrift says it saw significant growth in its studio in November and December of 2023. “We had really strong inventory for Autumn/Winter, and were heavily promoting our events on social media, and one particular weekend we did nearly $9,000 in sales after a two-day pop-up,” she tells Vogue Business. Normal sales range from $1,000 to $6,000 for a two-day event.
Each spring and autumn, Philadelphia’s Bok Building, where Room Shop is located, has an open-studios event where artists and businesses in the building all open their doors to the public on the same night. At nearly every open studio from 2022 through spring 2024, the brand has hit around $1,000 in in-person sales, from a mix of familiar customers and newbies to the brand.
With this, third spaces seem to tap into the growing interest in spending time — and money — in unexpected spaces. Trend forecaster Emily Carmeli agrees, saying that there’s a huge opportunity for brands to authentically tap into the movement.
“It’s fun to go somewhere you know you will see like-minded people that you’ve never met,” says Room Shop’s Horst. “Maybe you’ll make new friends, but at a bare minimum you’ll see some great street style.” According to her, the energy is different from traditional retail.
LaRossa believes third places are successful because they’re personal and community driven. “The space is inviting and encourages an interactive atmosphere,” she adds. Plus, with private appointments and hosting friend groups, she can direct all of her attention to customers, whether it’s with styling pieces or chatting.
How brands can opt in
Already bigger brands are seeing the creative opportunity in third places. For example, earlier this summer, Miu Miu hosted ‘Summer Reads’ events across the world at different venues, including at Casa Magazines in New York, meanwhile Other Stories had its 2024 autumn preview at Iconic Magazines, also in New York. Taking products out of traditionally branded spaces is a neat concept that more brands should get behind.
Though when it comes to identifying the right kind of third place, Pollina encourages other brands to find one that fits their specific vibe. “This gives you a better indication whether your clothes will sell,” she explains. Plus, working with multiple creators and brands can increase the likelihood of a high-earning event.
LaRossa loves hosting events that aren’t sales driven — and this is clearly resonating. “I find so much joy in facilitating a welcoming environment for people to come together,” she says. Though these spaces are hard to find, especially in New York, this often adds to their draw. “I think tapping into our desire to connect with others is the perfect way to utilise them.”
Pollina believes massive installations and overly manufactured aesthetics in stores are off-putting for those who want to shop and hang out. With this, she encourages brands to work with small businesses and secondhand third places.
In these spaces, big brands should aim to offer things that are unique to markets, such as fun DIY activities, customisable products and limited-release items that are only available at the market,” says Crist.
The value of the third place goes beyond the physical, however. According to Yems, these spaces can create micro-communities — think the rise of running clubs, which has pushed forward the ‘new streetwear’ — and with the re-emergence of hobbyism, more people are partaking in activities that bring them to gyms and activity centres. “Much like running, belonging to these spaces comes with its own external aesthetic codes, many of which have infiltrated fashion on a broader scale,” Yems says.
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