Syrian-born, Dubai-based designer Rami Al Ali has long been a fixture on the Paris couture scene. For over a decade, he has shown his collections off-calendar, quietly establishing himself as a go-to for red carpet glamour and timeless elegance. But as of 10 July, Al Ali will step onto the official Paris Couture Week schedule, marking a significant milestone not just for the designer, but for the region he represents.
Al Ali becomes the first designer working out of Dubai to receive this recognition from the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), the governing body for French fashion, and joins a growing list of Arab names on the prestigious calendar, including Saudi Arabia’s Ashi Studio, and Lebanon’s Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad and Georges Hobeika.
For Al Ali, who has had a steady, under-the-radar career, despite dressing global icons including Helen Mirren and Beyoncé, this moment carries weight. In 2019, Hannah Beachler, the Oscar-winning production designer of Black Panther, wore a Rami Al Ali couture gown — the year she made history as the first Black person to win her category. Beachler’s orange-hued asymmetrical, ruffle-accented look earnt praise, though Al Ali’s name remained unfamiliar to many outside of fashion’s inner circle.
That may be about to change. “It brings immediate validation from the most-respected authority in couture,” says Al Ali of joining the official calendar. “That has an impact across all channels — from press to buyers, and even internal morale. It signals to the industry that the brand meets the highest creative and technical benchmarks. That changes the way partners look at us and opens doors we’ve been knocking on for years.”
Rahul Mishra, an India-based designer who has been part of Paris Couture Week since 2020 agrees, noting that “for a designer from our emerging regions, becoming part of the calendar holds an even deeper significance. It offers a chance to showcase our heritage on this platform and to represent and reclaim the narratives of our people.”
FHCM, the committee behind the official calendar, is known for its strict vetting process, admitting only those who demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship, creative vision and couture-level infrastructure. Fashion commentator Hanan Besovic, better known by his Instagram handle @IDeserveCouture, will be attending Al Ali’s show for the first time this season. “I do think with him being on the calendar, the chances for influential people to come to the show are definitely higher than before,” Besovic says.
What this means for Arab fashion on the global stage
Like many Middle Eastern designers, Al Ali is known for his immaculately tailored gowns and intricate embroidery — pieces made for statement moments yet always delivered with restraint. His place on the calendar also signifies the arrival of Arab designers as key voices in a space long dominated by European names, especially as the region is often seen as one of consumers, rather than creators, of luxury. “The Middle East has always had a deep connection to craftsmanship, storytelling and elegance, which naturally aligns with the values of haute couture,” says Al Ali. “Arab designers succeed here because we don’t compromise on detail or ambition.”
Still, for those hoping to follow in his footsteps, Al Ali offers a realistic perspective. The journey, he notes, is not for the faint-hearted. “It takes more than talent. You need a long-term strategy, business resilience and the ability to evolve without compromising identity. I would tell young designers to think of their brand not just as art, but as an enterprise: invest in people, stay consistent and keep showing up — recognition will follow.”
He admits there were moments when the road felt too long. “Anyone who’s tried to break into a closed system understands the frustration, but I never allowed that to turn into resignation. What kept me going was the belief that the work was strong, and that the system would eventually open to more global voices. Persistence, paired with clarity of purpose, was essential,” Al Ali says.
Besovic agrees that recognition is long overdue. “Arab designers have a knack for beauty and craftsmanship — exactly what couture clients want,” he says. “If you look at designers like Benchellal, or Azzi Osta, there’s clear talent. But fashion often fixates on European couture clients, even though the Middle East has long been one of couture’s most important markets. I think fashion is slowly understanding the importance of Arab designers and what they bring to the table.”
Making the most of the official stamp
At present, Al Ali operates his couture atelier out of Dubai. He recently signed a permanent retail agreement with Galeries Lafayette Doha and is in talks to expand into other key GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council) and European cities. “The strategy is to be selective and ensure the experience matches the brand’s standards,” the designer says. He also runs a ready-to-wear line, and plans to grow distribution for that in the next year. “We plan to leverage the couture momentum to increase ready-to-wear distribution, with a focus on curated retailers.”
This milestone will be closely watched by the regional fashion industry. Nez Gebreel, Dubai-based luxury brand strategist and former CEO of the Dubai Design and Fashion Council, says it’s Al Ali’s quiet approach that sets him apart. “There is a delicacy to his designs, but also strength. His discretion is well loved. I’m reluctant to use the phrase ‘hidden gem’, but it fits,” Gebreel tells me. Al Ali believes that today’s couture clients — especially in the Middle East — seek more than just spectacle. They want emotion, substance and timeless design. For this first official show, he has evolved not just the creative message, but also the business structure around it. “Beyond the collection, the show is a statement of belonging, to a global system that hasn’t always been open to designers from our region,” Al Ali teases. “Creatively, the message will reflect our cultural heritage in a refined, contemporary way. But operationally, we’re approaching it with stronger infrastructure, team growth and international visibility in mind.”
Being based in Dubai has both advantages and challenges, he admits. The city’s strategic location, deep regional spending power and luxury-focused infrastructure offer proximity to the right clients. But being outside the traditional fashion capitals means pushing harder for recognition. “It also made the brand more distinctive. Our perspective is different. We’re not replicating European codes — we’re offering something rooted in another rich culture, with its own depth and visual language,” he explains. The addition of Al Ali to Paris Couture Week not only marks a personal triumph for the designer, but reaffirms Dubai as a global luxury capital.
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