Having roamed the wild and spent time in the artist’s studio with his last two couture collections, Daniel Roseberry kept closer to home for spring 2024. Like Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton men’s, this American in Paris heeded the call of the West with cowboy references and related accouterments. And of course, he also found inspiration in Elsa Schiaparelli’s archives. The two designers seem to be connected when it comes to using wire to make their points in the most dramatic of ways.
Below, an imaginary mood board for Schiaparelli’s spring 2024 collection.
Architectural Extensions
Schiaparelli, spring 2024 couture
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
According to the original caption, this 1949 Schiaparelli look, called House of Cards, “juts out at unexpected angles. Wiring helps the fabric to keep its strange shape.”
Photo: Bettmann
Draping
Schiaparelli, spring 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
A 1937 Schiaparelli lamé evening dress
Photo: Lipnitzki / Photo by Roger Viollet via Getty Images
Peekaboo Details
Schiaparelli, spring 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Elsa Schiaparelli in her showroom, circa 1950
Photo: Bettmann
Dramatic Sleeves
Schiaparelli, spring 2024 couture
Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
A Schiaparelli coat from 1934
Photo: Lipnitzki / Photo by Roger Viollet via Getty Images
The Triangle Scarf
Schiaparelli, spring 2024 couture
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
A Schiaparelli look from 1954, the year the designer shuttered her business