Willy Chavarria’s runway shows have become the hottest ticket at New York Fashion Week. This season, Chavarria’s first after being crowned Menswear Designer of the Year at the 2023 CFDA Awards, he almost didn’t have one.
Instead, the designer directed his first short film, inviting his recurrent cast of friends and family to participate. It was poignantly titled Safe from Harm, and rather than follow a specific storyline, it contextualized his fall collection in the spaces and on the people that make the Willy Chavarria world a singular one in fashion. There was a steamy and erotic workout space, an apartment with Catholic imagery where couples fought or embraced, and a dilapidated church where everyone danced. “The whole story is about love, protection, and our need to protect each other,” Chavarria explained to my colleague Laia Garcia-Furtado. “I felt like the best way to tell this story was through an intimate film where you can see people, feel their emotions and tell a story that reflects how we feel in the moment.”
In the end, Chavarria decided to put on a show—and to reverberating effect. The featurette was the evening’s curtain raiser, playing before the show and serving as a mood-setter, its emotionally charged scenes and performances by a cast including Paloma Elsesser and the Italian singer Mahmood put the room into a trance.
Much of what makes Chavarria an important player in fashion at the moment is who he puts the clothes on. He has evolved the look of his collections of late, moving away from the casual and street and leaning further into potent tailoring silhouettes and opulent fabrications and detailing. His casting, however, has not changed. “I always want to make sure that I celebrate the beauty that isn’t the one we see projected everywhere in the world,” he said at his studio. “I want to raise people up that aren’t usually seen on the pages of glossy magazines.” The people in question are Latinos, queer folks, immigrants, and those who are not the usual subjects of casting calls.
“Almost all of the cast are friends and family type people,” explained Chavarria, who works with the casting agent Brent Chua. Some of them happen to be models, like Paloma Elsesser or Dilone, who have walked the runways of many designers over the years. But others are friends of Chavarria who only model for him. “They have construction jobs or whatever,” he said, “and I think it adds to the richness of showing the clothes, because we get tired of seeing them on the same faces over and over.” It also adds a sense of gravitas to his work, and offers a clear message to his audience: These people deserve to be on this stage, and in the clothes you’ll put in your magazines and stores.
But the reason why Chavarria’s casting has become such a hot topic in New York is not because it’s “inclusive,” but because it can’t not be. That his models come from all walks of life and look a certain way isn’t a front of house-only marketing strategy, but the only way Chavarria knows to operate. There is no Willy Chavarria, the brand, without its community, and there is no Willy Chavarria, the person, without his found family. That this enriches fashion is all for the better.
Right after Chavarria’s show, I joined him and some of his models for an intimate dinner. Across from me sat Shaid Anaya, who lives in Dallas and was scouted at his local gym. He’s now walked three Willy Chavarria shows. “We always want to keep it real,” said Chavarria of his approach, “I don’t care how big this brand gets, I always want to make sure that we’re real as fuck.” Scroll through to discover Chavarria’s models, as photographed by Rafael Martínez.
Willy Chavarria
Jess Cuevas
Age: 46
Day job: Willy Chavarria art director.
Where from: Lives in Los Angeles, originally from San Jose.
Willy Chavarria show count: 6
Erik aka “Chachi”
Age: 30
Day job: Being Willy Chavarria’s muse.
Willy Chavarria show count: 6
Where from: Frank Sinatra’s hometown.
Scouting story: Destiny.
Do you model regularly or would like to pursue modeling?
Yes, much love to NEXT Management.
How did it feel on the runway this time?
The feeling on the runway was quite emotional… It was an incredible feeling being together with everyone. I was nervous before, then I got out there and I got a burst of energy and felt strong. Even at the supper table my heart was racing. Just an incredible feeling and incredible to be a part of Willy’s journey.
Yuji Erika
Yuji
Age: 21
Day job: I run a business with his mom, Erika, providing interior/exterior house painting, fixing up apartments, renovating buildings. I like to make videos for fun.
Where from: Born and raised in the Bronx.
Willy Chavarria show count: 6
Scouting story: I was working with a friend selling their clothes, and I went with him to visit Willy s studio and he asked me to be in his show and open it.
Do you model regularly or would like to pursue modeling?
I like modeling a lot and would like to pursue it, I feel like the people need me. I like that I can represent Mexico. I never thought I could ever be a model, but I like to inspire people like me to know that they can do this too.
Erika
Age: 42
Day job: I’m working in construction and demolition.
Where from: Currently live in the Bronx, but originally from Puebla, Mexico and migrated at 17 years old.
Willy Chavarria show count: Debut. “This is my first time walking for Willy Chavarria and I feel amazing.”
Amara Gisele
Age: 28
Day job: Direct support elderly caretaker. Also part of the House of Xtravaganza, category Femme Queen Runway.
Willy Chavarria show count: Debut. I first walked for Mugler and then for Balenciaga in Los Angeles. “This show feels like a homecoming. A real debut.”
Where from: Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn.
Scouting story: Peter, who is an agent at NEXT is good friends with Willy, who advocated for me to get signed.
Jonathan
Age: 22
Day job: Currently working on creating a media production company with a friend to produce video projects.
Willy Chavarria show count: 2
Where from: Los Angeles.
Scouting story: Photographer Fabian Guerrero reached out to do a shoot with stylist Marcus Correa for Esquire Italia, Willy saw that and asked me to be in his show.
Do you model regularly or would like to pursue modeling?
Willy helped me connect with NEXT Models a week after my first show and they now represent me in Los Angeles and New York.
Kerolyn
Shaid
Age: 19
Day job: Construction/General contracting.
Where from: Born in Los Angeles but lives in Dallas.
Willy Chavarria show count: 3
Scouting story: I used to go to the same Planet Fitness gym that photographer Fabian Guerrero worked at and we did a test shoot together. Fabian photographed me wearing Willy Chavarria and Willy saw it and asked me to come to NYC for his show. My debut was the Spring 2023 show “All Rise.”
Do you model regularly or would like to pursue modeling?
So far I’ve only modeled for Willy, but I’m working with an agent and trying to pursue modeling as a career hopefully in New York.
Dilone
Age: n/a
Day job: Model and actor.
Where from: Dominican born and raised in Long Island, now living between LA and New York.
Willy Chavarria show count: Debut.
Scouting story: I got to work with Willy through the typical casting agent optioning process this season. But I feel like my friend, who is a stylist, and I manifested this moment. I’ve wanted to be a part of this for a long time.
Marco
Age: 25
Day job: Luxury Retail Client Advisor, currently at Acne Studios.
Where from: Pittsburgh, PA. Living in NYC for almost four years now.
Willy Chavarria show count: 2
Scouting story: Brent Chua via Stetts Management.
Do you model regularly or would like to pursue modeling?
I would love to continue modeling and especially to pursue acting, that s the dream.
Valentine
Age: 25
Day job: Full-time model.
Willy Chavarria show count: Debut.
Where from: Los Angeles.
Scouting story: I submitted myself to my mother agency after filming a commercial and being complimented by the photographer. My mother agency quickly signed me and I walked for Marc Jacobs shortly after. Now I was cast for Willy.
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