Highly popularized by stylist Allison Bornstein, the “wrong shoe” theory gave us permission to embrace the unexpected—and pair opposing pieces together for a surprisingly harmonious look. This fall, the idea evolves beyond footwear: introducing the wrong coat theory.
A Cheat Sheet to the “Wrong Coat Trend” Look
Finding inspiration in last fall’s runways, there are plenty of examples of balanced contradiction. Prada sent barn jackets with swinging fringe skirts down the runway, Miu Miu showed pajama pants under a wool coat, and Ralph Lauren proposed shimmering gowns underneath soft cardigans. Each look redefined what dressing means—inviting us to sit in the tension between polished and playful.
This sartorial paradox gets further explored in this season’s collections: Tory Burch reimagined the modern cool girl in jersey sweatpants and faux-fur coats. At Saint Laurent, slouchy leather jackets were styled with voluminous skirts—playing with scale and proportion. Miu Miu once again dabbled in le chic sportif, elevating sport zip-ups with pencil skirts.
What makes these combinations work is how they challenge the eye. The “wrong” element forces you to do a double take and consider texture and proportion through a fresh lens. It’s not about going against the grain, but about homing into your personal style through unexpected pairing.
Below, we decode six interpretations of the wrong coat theory—with tips for how to mix and match your own fall outerwear in a new way.
The Sporty Jacket and Pencil Skirt
Miu Miu’s quirky, confident woman finds her stride in classic silhouettes with a sporty twist. The tension between playful and poised is explored here with a track jacket and refined pencil skirt. Complete it with heeled mules for an elevated finish.
The Tailored Blazer and Embellished Maxi Dress
Julian Klausner brought modernity to staid formal wear by pairing a black-tie gown with a just so tailored blazer at Dries Van Noten. The interplay between structure and softness strikes the perfect balance of dressed up and at ease. Make sure to pop your collar and slip into brogues—the night’s made for dancing, not sitting.
The Faux-Fur Coat and Track Pants
Headed to brunch? Maybe just a neighborhood walk? Do as the Tory girl would and elevate everyday jersey sweats with a plush faux fur. Pointy loafers give the look the structure it needs to feel intentional.
Moto Jacket Voluminous Skirt
Saint Laurent played with proportions this season, grounding oversized voluminous skirts with easy-going slouchy leather jackets for a lesson in contrast. Channel this iconic runway moment by styling Banana Republic’s aviator jacket with Zara’s midi skirt and Alexis Bittar’s mosaic earrings for a sculptural finish.
The Fancy Jacket and Casual Jeans
In Valentino’s crimson-hued world, prim, bow-adorned jackets were loosened up by light-wash jeans and checkered Vans. Proof that even the fanciest of jackets can find its match in an opposite.
The Utility Jacket and Sheer Dress
For days that begin at the office and end at late-night dinners, balancing function and allure is key. A utilitarian coat layered over a romantic dress bridges both sensibilities beautifully. Try Sir’s off-the-shoulder maxi underneath Loro Piana’s linen jacket, then finish with Sophie Buhai’s sculptural collar and Me+Em’s chocolate bag.
