"The constructive ideology…calls for the highest exactitude of means of expression," read part of the program for Narciso Rodriguez s sleek show for Loewe. Don t ask.
Pretentious theory aside, Rodriguez s show was a study in controlled elegance. His graphic little shift dresses and neat coats and pantsuits had the look of Jackie Onassis sporty-deluxe wardrobe during the Ari years.
Deft leather work is the specialty of this classical Spanish house, and Rodriguez capitalized on the superb craftsmanship with contrast-insets in a Mondrian grid on those leather shifts, and refined chevron work. Subtle touches of hidden luxury included a warm-pink satin lining on the camel jacket of a mini suit, and matte caviar sequins on a chiffon evening mini. Rodriguez kept to an appropriately Spanish palette of black, honey-tan, palomino and a dash of lingerie-pink, and focused on understated luxury.
You win the pop quiz if you can count the number of chevron black-and-white mink coats we ve seen this season, but Rodriguez s held its own. His top-heavy shearling tops with skinny leather pants looked hipper still—a palatable take on the 80s.
