For most mortals, the concept of everyday couture is an oxymoron. But for Oscar de la Renta s devoted Balmain clientele—which includes the likes of Princess Firyal of Jordan, Ira von Furstenberg, Georgina Brandolini and Deeda Blair—it makes perfect sense. With his gentleman s sensibility, the Dominican designer understands better than anyone their need for clothes that are subtle yet dramatic.
Centered around Spanish and Russian motifs, de la Renta s collection was concise and impeccably executed. Racy boleros, flamenco hats and profusely beaded skirts stole the show; even a draped tuxedo jacket and satin shirt looked like they could have been worn by an off-duty matador. De la Renta also supplied richly embroidered coats, massive fur hats and generous muffs reminiscent of Catherine the Great, as well as an outstanding gold damask long-skirted suit, decadently trimmed with sable. Not quite the thing for lunch at Swifty s? Don t panic: De la Renta s double-faced wool coats, muslin blouses and precisely cut tweed tailleurs with ruched side-fastenings should do the trick.