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Models wafted onstage in a zig-zag pattern on Alberta Ferretti s extra-wide runway, ultimately forming a gray and black army of perfectly nice girls exploring their more daring side.

There was a vintage feeling to many of Ferretti s short velvet dresses, wool minishifts and top-stitched leather coats. Everyday basics included sharp, straight trousers, chiffon aqua shirts, pearly satin tops and skirts pleated at the knee. Ferretti s main strength remains her way with frothy, delicate femininity—in her hands, last season s punky strapped dresses became subtly knotted and gathered slips embellished with short streamers and beaded insets, Empire-waist baby-doll dresses, and rough-cut (but always delicate and feather-light) sheaths.