Working almost exclusively in black, Tom Ford took confident steps toward defining his vision for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
A couple of pink-and-amethyst short dresses trimmed in waffle pleats opened the show; from that moment on, Ford s only concession to color was a deep aubergine tone that surfaced sporadically.
The monochromatic scheme forced the audience to focus on the design of the clothes. Saint Laurent s famous gypsies migrated to the new millennium, their fringed skirts and off-the-shoulder peasant dresses intact but updated for urban life. Ford also provided an impressive array of fitted jackets with ruffled lapels, leader-of-the-band coats, sumptuous shearlings and stern military overcoats with epaulettes and thick belts.
The precise focus of Ford s collection extended to the accessories: The new YSL Rive Gauche thick-heeled, wide-strap heels, no-nonsense boots and graphic rectangular cases should be flying off the shelves next fall.
