Showing in New York for the first time, Londoner Matthew Williamson presented a collection titled "Kaleidescape" that arrived just like a Gypsy caravan might: embellished to the max and bursting with color.
Shocking, tropical hues of rose, peach, yellow and turquoise brightened trenchcoats, minis and pants—low-slung and tapered, or wide-waled and bell-bottomed—while shredded chiffon skirts were swirling patchworks of pattern and hue. Williamson s talisman this season was the number five (marking the number of years he s been in business), which was patched onto pockets, bags, trenches and military-style jackets. The designer s favorite Eastern motifs, like paisleys and abstract florals, made their way onto the beautiful hand-embroidered coat worn by Alek Wek and the chiffon dresses (really strapless saris) that closed the evening. Less successful were his continuing experiments with activewear, especially this season s Airtex dresses.
Williamson s pretty, if somewhat predictable, show included pieces that should appeal to both his established clientele and to younger (albeit deep-pocketed) customers. It will be interesting to see if he can develop a new audience by winning over typically black-clad New Yorkers.
