No one would really have expected Oscar de la Renta to adopt the sober palette that s dominated the runways this week. But just in case there was any doubt, the designer announced his direction even before the first model appeared, projecting a mosaic of colorful photos taken at Moroccan open-air markets—fruits, flowers, spices—onto the stage front.
There was a whiff of far-flung exoticism throughout the collection, although it was grounded in city-smart sportswear. De la Renta started with nubby cashmere sweaters, limpid ruched tops and soft wool poet-sleeve blouses, paired with tailored flannel pants and skirts in gray, moss green, taupe and black. But almost every outfit got a touch of spice via embroidery, a dusting of sequins, even a cowrie-shell fringe, along with exotic belts trimmed in coins, studs or smooth horn buttons.
Beautiful, delicately decorated coats have become fixtures in de la Renta s collections, and this one was no exception: There were opulent styles, like the silk patchwork version lined with sheared mink, alongside low-key versions in black cashmere or silk twill with a light touch of embroidery or beading.
De la Renta ended, as always, with a parade of great eveningwear: simple lace dresses, densely ruffled skirts and a group of glorious, diaphanous blouses with generous poet sleeves—just the thing for midnight at the medina.
